johan.p.g

thanks for that got all my research now. just need 2 start collecting the rest of the parts. iv been given a 25 block and have a spair 20 for the cons and crank all i need is a head and a set of pistons im bidding on a set of 26 as these will decrease the comp for the turbo otherwise it will b a set of 30s

thanks that solves allot of problems but i was wondering if the cons are the same thickness. when i looked on ACLs website it sais that the bigends on a 20 are 16.1mm and on the 25/26 its 17.1mm i was wondering if this is the same at the top of the rod as i am planning 2 put the 20 cons into a 25/26/30 piston and dont want to have to pack it out

i just read somewhere else that the rod lengths for a 26 are the same as a 25 and the diff is made up in the pin height in the pistons but i am sure the 20s cons are a diff length also i found out that the pin diameter for a 30, 25, and 26 are all 21mm diameter if any 1 could tell me the diameter of the 20s that would be very useful

thanks for that although i think that some of ur details are a bit out as the cons for the 20, 25 and 26 are all diff i think u miss understood i would be replacing the both the conrods and the crank which would give me a capacity of 2429.2419391773424cc a bore of 86 and stroke of 69.7 im also planning on using rb30 pistons if i can just need 2 check the small end sizes as this will decrease the compression ratio so i can run high boost

im after a set of standard rb30 pistons for my rb24 project i dont need any cons etc just bair pistons in good condition. note seller must be happy 2 send them 2 me in nz thanks

i was planning on doing it the otherway round 20 crank and cons in a 25 block what i wanted to know was is the small end bearings the same for a 20 and a 25 also does any1 have the conrod lengths and piston hights (small end to top) for both 25 and 20

i was planning on doing it the otherway round 20 crank and cons in a 25 block what i wanted to know was is the small end bearings the same for a 20 and a 25 also does any1 have the conrod lengths and piston hights (small end to top) for both 25 and 20

its 2 predictable i want something diff explore the unknown also i like the idea of having a free reving hi tourque engine

thats why u turn up the boost n its just a temp 2 c if its worth it as no1 has really bothered tryin n i am familiar with the rb30 iv been in a couple n yes i love them but i want 2 du something different on the cheep

the equation is (pie*(bore/2)squared)*stroke this gives the capacity of each cylinder in mm cubed so u just need 2 times it by the number of cylinders as u want the capacity in cm cubed or ml insert the bore and stroke in as cm values so instead of having a boar of 86mm its 8.6cm

i dont know what diameter the pistons ud use 4 the 23/24 buit at factory diameter a 25 cranc and cons give a verry small increas in capacity and is a waist of time the 26 cranc gives a 2.1 litre 24s are built with a 25 block and a 20 crank and cons they are more rev happy than the 25 with the same tourque this is what i plan 2 du as a 25 bottom end is only worth $100 n ill modify my current 20 head 2 fit with the crank and cons out of my donor engine il not bother with new rings or anything fancy c what the engines good 4 b4 i spend 2 much money on it im doing all the work myself so it shouldnt cost more than 200 for the build

i was wandering if someone could help me i started with a auto 2litre coupe i hav finished the manual conversion im halfway thru a body kit but am now on the search fore more power. i am not verry familliar with turbos but it is the rought i want 2 follow if any1 has done 1 of these conversions i was wandering if they could explain the procces in detail including any problems with wiring i plan 2 use an apexi s-afc for the fuel maps but wasent totally sure what 2 du with oil pickups and cooling aswell as boost control plumbing i hav searched but was unable to find any good detailed explanations

i hav done 2 wasted spark conversions 1 using a vp coilpack into an rb30det and a mitsubishi diamonte v6 into my rb20de. at first they both went like shit on a stick there was a huge diff in acceleration and the idle was mint. as far as i know the mitsi alternative has not relly been tried but it cretes a huge spark it manager 2 jump out of the ht lead thru another 3 cm to the plenum so thats about 6cm in total. but after about 3 weeks the rb30 stopped makin spark all together when it was taken 2 the tunors he said that it was because the r32 igniter was not compatible with the waisted spark and the charge times are diff so as a result we had been over working the igniter this resulted in the link ecu needing rebuilding and a new igniter out of a mitsi or holden needing 2 be rewired in its not yet back from the tunor but il keep u updated. now for mine. the rb20 didnt give me any trouble until all of a sudden it stalled when i left it at idle n it refused 2 start there was full battory but it would only start when i pushed it once i got it going it didnt give me any trouble till the next day. it started first pop but on my journey i pulled over and left it idling again when it stalled it would not start under the battory and i reset the ecu several times. that night i towed it home, i tow started it a couple of times on the way home and it would only idle and not rev the minuit i touched the accelerator it would start missing and then stall unless i quickly pumped the pedal. since i got it home it will idle and start under battory but still not rev i have restored the factoy coils and that didnt fix it i also tried replacing the afm i hav the hunch its the ecu and will be replacing that soon 2 c what happens. im prety sure the rb20's problems are a result of the ignition mods but if any1 can can prove me wrong i would be quite gratefull the rb30's problems are deffinetely a result if the coil pack mods

if that doesnt work use a hooked rod and place it under the lip od the bonnet and try to hook the cable from outside and pull

just out of interest why do u need 2 know

this cost me $30

my addvice is to dump the factory coils for a set of vn/vp or mitsubishi ones i fitted a set of vp coils to an rb30 about a week ago and it was running fine till the fuel pump packed up and today a fitted a set of Mitsubishi Diamante v6 coils to my rb20 and it ran mint started much quicker and ran smoother more tourque and it runs the same gapped sparks as the rb coils

my addvice is to dump the factory coils for a set of vn/vp or mitsubishi ones i fitted a set of vp coils to an rb30 about a week ago and it was running fine till the fuel pump packed up and today a fitted a set of Mitsubishi Diamante v6 coils to my rb20 and it ran mint started much quicker and ran smoother more tourque and it runs the same gapped sparks as the rb coils

im thinking of going with the 24 as well but i want to use the 25 block out ov a r33 with variable valve timing and then the 2 litre crank and forged 2litre cons this chould give me a ridiculously high redline and a free revving tourquey engine the exact capacity will be 2429 with this combination

im thinking of going with the 24 as well but i want to use the 25 block out ov a r33 with variable valve timing and then the 2 litre crank and forged 2litre cons this chould give me a ridiculously high redline and a free revving tourquey engine the exact capacity will be 2429 with this combination

what mag is this cus im interested in getting a copy thanks

what mag is this cus im interested in getting a copy thanks

we had someone sit on the back of the engine and push back this tilts the back of the engine down and makes it easier to slot the new gbox in

we had someone sit on the back of the engine and push back this tilts the back of the engine down and makes it easier to slot the new gbox in

we had someone sit on the back of the engine and push back this tilts the back of the engine down and makes it easier to slot the new gbox in