BrianEng

LOL no silly mix ups, Its the stock injectors with stock ECU Is it safe to drive around with an idle AFR of 13ish

Heya guys, Im in a bind. Long story, but I really need your help. Please, I organized a track day with my buddy for Friday, and if I cant go, Im going to be terribly upset! My wideband usually shows 14.7+/-0.1 for the first 20 secs or so when the ignition is turned to on, and after about another 15-20 secs, usually goes under 20 and reads LEN. This is how it calibrates before I start the car every damn time, which is kind of annoying, but anyways...On to the story. Car had a leak at the O-ring on the #2 cyl, very minor, but letting it sit in the garage caused my parents to smell gas in their room, directly over the garage. So Sunday I go over to my buddies house in hull to move my recirc valve so that I can put on the strut tower bar I bought. So I leave his house after everything is done, he lives in Hull, and we had forgotten to tighten the coupler at the throttle body, so I pull over after noticing this and tighten it. Off I go on to the highway, running a little bit warm, about 180F, its also like 30+ some with humidity at 1pm LOL, and the car rides fine, hits 0.75bar like normal, all is well. I get home, and pull the injectors out, replace to o-ring on the one injector since I had just replaced them all after my GTR injector failed because of a failed tuned ECU that didnt work So injector fixed, drive the car, and all seems well. AFRs are in the 12.2 range under boost, around 14.7 ish on idle (stock ECU). Then I get about 5km or so from my house, then it starts sputtering for a sec or two, so I clutch in and coast, idle settles, AFRs are in the 14.7ish range like they normally are, and I drive to a nearby parking lot to check things out. (From here on out, I never hit boost.) So I pop the bumper off, check for leaks, cant noticebly hear anything, but I could feel a leak at one of the couplers. So i tighten it cause it was a bit loose, and tighten the rest for good measures. Check the injectors and theres a leak....On the No.1 injector. Ok, time to make my way home, slowly, actually under 40k, making sure the AFRs stayed around 14 on about 15-20% throttle, still bogging intermittenly. Also, the AFRs were idling around 15.1 after I noticed the new leak. Dont make it home. All of the sudden, probably less than 2km, car starts really running terrible, so I shut it off right away and coasted it to a side street. This time the leak is so bad when the pump primes, you can see bubbles and spray from the leak. Run home, grab the two extras plus one of the round insulator rings, and change that up on the side of the road. Start the car, massive ammounts of greyish/blusish/whitish, hard to describe smoke, smelt like gas quite a bit come out. Car was running like complete crap, almost like it was on 4-5 cyls! So i turn the car off, no more leaks anymore from the injectors, but the car doesnt run. Start it again, AFRs go right in to the 10.5 range, shut off the car. Pull the plugs, Black as hell and have yummy Sunoco 94 smell to them. Run to CT, grab 6 new plugs ($67.00 with taxes) , change 'em up, try again, Goes right to the rich side. So Im thining its flooded or something, call up the ol' flatbed...$134.52 later, its at least in my garage, and not the side of a street. Let it sit for more than 24 hrs and I drive the beater for a day. Turn the key, wideband calibrates down to about 19.5 or so, which is 0.5 higher than normal, but close start it up, running now on all 6 cylinders again, but running pig rich at 11.0 on idle. Stop the car. Do a full oil/filter change, flushed with an extra 500ccs of Mobil 1 before adding 4 or so litres, and try and start it up. Still rich. Ok, lets kill all the gas in the cylinders and pull the fuse on the fuel pump. Engine dies. Turn off the ignition, wait a few, turn it on, calibrates down to LEN like normal...Sweet!!!! Crank it up, climbs to 14.7 for a sec or two, then shoots up to 11 AFR again. FACK. Pull the fuse, kill the gas so it doesnt seep too much into the oil and call it a night. I have 6 more o-rings comming in, but since theres no leaks, I dont think I should pull the whole rail and everything out again. I tried spraying soapy water, but when I'd spray, it would create bubbles. This very much sounds like a leak, but I cant quite hear or notice any visible leaks. My friend says he can hear injectors clicking when it idles, as I thought maybe the injectors were stuck open. The car idles fine just has an AFR of 11.0 on my wideband, which seemed pretty good unless all that smoke comming out the back facked it up cause there was no smoke and idled fine. My ECU throws no codes. Maybe I should just clean the wideband tommorow as maybe all the sut from the exhaust smoke yesterday clogged and filled it up? Any ideas??? ----Update----- I changed all the Orings, oil (again), and rechecked all the IC and stuff, and I managed to get it to idle around 13.5 when cold. Also, instead of showing LEN whne the WB is calibrated, it shows around 14.0. I lightly cleaned them with some O2 sensor safe carb type cleaner, both O2 sensors, cleaned the MAF. I drove it about 0.2km and under light throttle maintained a 14.7ish AFR, and under boost around 12ish. Still nto sure though, whacha all think?

Yea I have the FSM and am tryin to find the parts that I need. Ive been puttin off pullin the CAS out since I have to pull the rad too...ands thats a bitch. Ill double check for spark but as of last year when I stored it in December it was fine. Maybe the last few months changed that, Ill double check. Would I hook up the led test light to the ground at the ecu?

Yea sorry there were similar questions from the other guys. To recap...Yes there is fuel to the rail. I can feel it pressurizing right at the little like that is infront of the FPR. There are no air leaks and Ive tripple checked that. The rpms go to about 350or so when trying to crank. There is no gunk or anything on the plugs, and the tips look nice and sharp. They look like theyve been through some use but they are less than 6 months old. The resistors are soldered in there good, and the all measured 10ohm resistance, so this time I know thats right. Like I said earlier the injectors all get about 2ohm resistance across them all. The harness is intact from the injectors to the ECU, and they all have 12v.

Ok, so Ive been on a local skyline board and would like a few more opinions.....so Ill ask you guys down under for a hand!! Ill paste the posts Ive made from the other board here. All electrical measurements were done with the wrong resistors installed. I just installed the proper 10w10ohm resistors and it still wont start. Any clues on what I should be lookin for?? Hey guys Well, I decided to light her up tonite, and after checking everything I could think of, it wont start. I did do a few mods since the last time I started it. Its an RB20 in an S13. I put an RB25 turbo on it and replaced all the gaskets. Never disconnected the O2 sensor. I did put GTR injectors, and wired up some 10w10a resistors on each line before the injectors as per the sticky by Matt. I didnt have them flow tested, but I assume unfortunately that they are fine. I did go with a chipped ECU I bought from someone in the states. It was tuned by EO Performance. The ECU flashes a cool Code 55. There is gas to the stock FPR and the Walbro is definitely pumping. I did rearrange my homemade FMIC. My AVC-R for some reason shows 0 with igniton, and only goes to about -20 mmHg when cranking. I dont recall what it used to do because I never payed attention to it. I do hear a few clicking sounds, like relays, near the ABS actuator and windshield wiper motor on the passenger side, but I wouldnt suspect that to cause not starting. I checked vaccum lines and didnt notice anything not connected. It was way to cold to give it a good check, even the garage was like so cold and its insulated. Any ideas? Thanks! I'm also leaning towards injectors also, since its the only part I changed that would possibly have an effect on starting. Im pretty sure the ECU is fine, Ill take out a plug and coilpack and ground it to the block and check for a spark, and Im not overly comforatble taking the CAS off since I dont wanna fudge anything else up. I will also check for injector ticking during cranking though. Im going to eat dinner and take a hot shower before I go outside to work on it again. Ill report back a lil' later once I know a bit more. I seem to recall taking apart the things under the TB area and recall one spot on the TB that has a mini bung on it facing the cabin that I couldnt find a hose for. When turning the CAS, does it have to go back in the exact same way and postition as you took it out, Im assuming yes. Ohh and the ECU is reprogrammed for the 440cc injectors on Stock MAF. Anywhoo, more to follow. Thanks As a second way I think of diagnosing the fuel/spark issue was I got my dad to crank it over while I listened for the ticking....but it was absent or my hearing sucks. I then proceeded to take off out my No. 1 coilpack and remove the spark plug. It was dry, and didnt smell like gas. I thought it should. There is no odor it the exhaust that I could notice. The resistance showed 0.9ohms on the No.1 coilpack. I didnt test the rest. The resistor pieces were from Curcuit City. The were 10ohm10w resistors. They looked like green cylinders about an inch or so long, and no thicker than 0.7cm and had to metal pieces comming out of them. IIRC, I didnt wire them to the black ground wires for the injectors, I believe I used the other one. (Not sure of the colour) If it was a fuel delivery problem, would it be more likely the ECU, injectors, or in the wiring of the resistors to the injectors. I will try and check the resistance on the injectors tommororw, its supposed to be nice and warm What should the resistance be on them? On a side note, where does the line comming off the FPR and the manifold go to? Thanks! I do not have an osciliscope to check the pulses. It really is a PITA to get to injectors 4-6 so I did inspection at the Midpoint harness. Injector 1: Resistance on Injector: 2.1ohm Pin 2 Voltage: 11.5V Injector 2: Resistance on Injector: 2.0ohm Pin 2 Voltage: 11.5V Injector 3: Resistance on Injector: 2.0ohm Pin 2 Voltage: 11.6V Measured at RB20 MId-Harness for Injectors 4,5,6. Voltage Measurements were 11.5V across pin 3 and 4,5,6. I think thats all the measurements I took looking at my scrap paper. If you need more info just LMK. Thanks! Suggested to me by a friend was to run the stock ECU in hopes of determining if the ECU is operating correctly. Using the stock ECU, I still get no gas to the plugs. Should I just buy new injectors with the right impedence, remove the resistors, resolder the wires and try?

Orig date: Aug22/06 OK after a New MAF the car, she still wont run right..... Attached is my diagnosis procedure from the bible, can you guys look and see if I'm missing something. I grabbed my posting from NEO, and Ill paste it here because this is exactly what happened before the car went ka-putz..... So I'm on my 5 mins drive to work, but get sidetracked by some suped up new mustang, had Cobra wheels or something, sounded not-stock thats for sure.....So we rip one on the 417, those familiar with the east end, we went from the police station to jeanne d'arc where we exited, had a quick chat, and i went to work late driving the 5 mins back because we went 5 mins past lol..... I parked the car and let it idle down like normal. This was at 1430 and i go to work until 2100. I leave work, after a really busy nite, so I'm slightly frustrated, then I go start the car. Seems fine, try to drive off...BAM 2500rpm chugging...After the intial chug, it begins idling at around 1800....wierd..... MAF problem, still in the mall parking lot, I check my SAFC and its gettin 0Vs....thats not right.... Wires all connected, etc, so I unplug my SAFC (After reconnecting the MAF wire), same problem, check the wiring, its all intact, still connected.... I aint towin' the car again, so i figure I drive it limping home cause it's only 5 mins, and magically, about half way there I notice its idling at its usual 850 or so, so I give'r...Its all good..... Next day, dead again...where she remains, except this time with a new 330$+shipping MAF yay! Now...I havent had any issues yet with this plug, and one would think by looking at it that its obvious. (Sorry, on have the camera on my RAZR so...) I posted in the Classified section for someone with the same plug I could buy to eliminate that. I already resoldered the entire ECCS C/U blue harness becuase the one I got with my engine was hacked...and also missing a MAF plug, see the classified post for info on that.... So sick and tired of problems...I picked fast and reliable, not cheap...but it aint reliable Thank you so much

Hey, Just wondering, Ive never really known what temperature I should be seeing for the water temp, right now, my autometer gauge shows it at 195F, or about 90C, is this normal? Im afraid to rip it on the highway just cause im not 100% sure, and this is slightly past center on the gauge, Sorry for the noobish question! Ciao

Sorry guys, Ive been really busy lately with work and everything, I finally pulled apart the intercooler and piping and redid it...that solved the boost problem...inturn creating another one... I seem tohave melted the white wire going to the alternator, and frying the fuse with it, the 75A big guy lol... I fixed the wire, albeit a bit crunchy for the first 4-5cm so i clipped it and attached a new O ring at the end. Thinking it was connected at the wrong spot, I moved it to the other bolt, at 3 O'clock looking at the back of it from 12 o'clock position where it melted.... put another fuse in, attach the battery, fireworks, fuse blown again....now before I go buy a fuse or five.....Id like to know where abouts the white and ground wire should be connected to... Currently the black is on the bottom most of the two bolts at 6 oclock Muchly appreciated Brian

Revs seem to vary...but I havent been able to rev over 3200ish while driving, but at idle I can rev it up till black smoke blows out the back lol, I changed the plugs already, but ill recheck them again tonite

No mods yet, just AVC-R that doesnt even have the solenoid attached to the WG, just the pressure sensor to tell me how much boost... This is, it happens, or feels less bad when the car is cold, when its hot, its more likely to happen...Car revs smoothly until it reaches the bogging point, the kinda cuts out making boost and then im back in vacuum...

I just noticed something else eh. I hooked up the safc and saw the voltage with ignition on was fluctuating between 0.35-0.4v, but in the pdf thing I have it says it should be at around 0.5v.... Now I had an extra harness that had a maf clip because mine was cliped for some reason on the harness....Unfortunately, I have two....yes two....soldered connections between the maf and the ecu, ontopp of the safc being there too.... I have it set up as 1 In 1 Out as per the instructions in the DIY/FAQ section, with 6 and Up, and it hasnt changed. I tried cleaning the afm pins and thats when it raised to around 0.4ish, but at around 2500 where it should be 1.5 I think, i get like 1.6v, and AFL doesnt seem to go over 40%ish... Retightened all the couplers and lines just to be safe, now it'll go to about 0.3bar sometimes, it varies so much, and the wastegate arm is still stiff... Fuel is provided by a walbro 255lph, and I dont see any clean spots under the car as its covered in rust proofing gunk... I did replace the plugs, NGK BCPR6 -11 still running trying to get to stock boost ... I cant think of anything else, maybe I need some dyno time with a wideband to get more info?

Ill double check it, but I cant see/hear any leaks, and I'm almost 100% sure i double checked all the piping for the IC, ill take a look agian to be sure, but I noticed on the way home from work it buckles when you hold it at the point and almost looses boost complete and drops back to mmHg

This is my first time with a FI car...now I have an AVCR running just the pressure sensor right now to see how its boosting, and I also have an RSM to see my revs... The car drives fine until it see about 0.1-0.2 bar, and kind of bogs out, so much so I have to shift gears. I know its not a MAF issue cause the car has gone over 2500RPM, maybe close to 3700RPM, and the problem happens at a host of RPMs depending on the gear and such eh. Being in a higher gear like 5th, it seems to build boost more smoothly... I tightened the wastegate actuator arm because a buddy of mine said that might be causin the issues, didn't help the problem much tho eh lol.... I checked for leaks but cannot seem to hear anything checking out all the lines and i couldnt hear and leaking air. My throttle hasn't even seen past about 35 percent because it usually bogs down too if I floor it and build the boost faster. It feels wierd, kinda like its loosing its guts and cant seem to want to move, but Im too afraid to give it and see what happens because I have no clue eh lol... Anyways, I hope someone might have some insight into whats goin on! Ciao

I was looking through the diagnosis thing in the R32 manual and I saw that if the CAS wasnt right, it wouldnt ignite....how can i check to see if that is working right.... The ignitor chip shoudl be tested...but how do i do this? i saw in the book it said to test resistance betgween the coil side of the harness to the coil, and hsould be 0, as well as between pins 1,2,3,11,12,13 on the ecu connector to the c/u side of the ignitor, should also be 0.

Hello from the other side of the world, and north hehe....Im in ottawa, ontario, canada and i just finished up my s13 rb20 swap...unfortunately it wont start... I turn to you guys because there isnt a huge group of RB users up here...Now, the starter cranks, theres fuel that i can hear, and there was pressure in the lines, the injectors are all grounding through the ecu fine, afm, o2 sensors are hooked up, new plugs, i have power going to the coils, but it wont spark when we put a plug in and grounded it, no arcing....no nothing!!!! Now, after lookin at some diagrams on the net, i see that the problem might be with the ignitor chip...Maybe one of you guys could help me to diagnose this problem eh, cause this is rather annoying, cause im losing out on alot of work, and i gotta pay this swap off... Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks Ciao