Equilibrise

Challenging mig welding thin Aluminium pipe and trying to fit it in, having to bend and twist, but got there in the end. Fits really well and can easily get a socket wrench in there now to put it on/off. I'm in the middle of another project, so haven't installed the suction pipe yet. I'll post some pictures and results when i do.

Hello everyone. Since the last stint of turbo upgrades, the intake plumbing from air filter to turbo was made up of sections of ally pipe and silicone bends. This was done as the stock suction pipe was so restrictive, it was noticable on the dyno. The configuration and layout of the m35 engine bay meant that the intake plumbing was too close to the exhaust manifold, even in contact with the heat sheild in one spot. Apart from that i had to use the first section of the stock suction pipe bolted onto the turbo. Although the setup was much better than the stock suction pipe, it still caused some restriction and excesive heat into the incoming air. Its like trying to suck a thickshake through a thin soft drink straw, possible, but you gotta work really hard. Then add the heat...for those that may not know, the hotter the air, the further the oxygen molecules are apart and the less explosive a given area of air is when mixed with fuel, hence, why intercoolers work (compressing air makes the molecules move faster which also generates heat). Water injection and nitrous oxide injection also use the same principle. As the M35 Stagea intake and suction pipe options on the market are very very limited, i decided to fabricate my own from the turbo to the filter and include one silicone joiner to allow for engine twist. If anyone is interested while I'm in the process, I could manufacture a couple more but you gotta let me know soon. I'll post some pictures soon.

They are in the headlights. The globes are probably blown.

Garage clearout of vq25 parts left over from engine swap. Please make an offer on the following parts if you are interested. Power steering pump Alternator A/C condensor Stock injectors with rail and harness Various sensors Stock engine ecu and auto ecu and bcm Front diff Belt tensioners Radiator hoses Torque converter and flex plate Brand new set of springs for bc coilovers

Should be the same. I rebuilt one of my vq25det with vq35de specs and all was fine

Sounds awful. Fan hitting the shroud Bearing gone on one if the pulleys. Loose timing or cam chain slapping around (pray its not that) The sound of a damaged hydraulic lifter would be alot faster. Good luck

Sorry guys, no longer parting out vehicle. Going to tidy it up and sell it whole

You want the same as g35x. The v35 ones are smaller.

Hi all, Parting out my beloved m35 stagea ARX, although happy to sell complete. All items are in used but good to very good condition. Stock parts also available. Located in Sydney. These are the aftermarket parts up for sale: - 350z brembos with freshly machined DBA t3 slotted rotors and stoptech braided lines. Front and rear $1200 - BC br adjustable coilovers with swift 12.0 kgf/mm racing springs Front and rear $1200 Swift springs are WAY better than the standard BC springs. Read up on them. I recommend anyone with BCs get them. - superpro sway bars with adjustable links on rear Front and rear $500 - Moonface roll center adjusters (lower control arm ball joint) Front $200 SPL pro v5 tie rods ends (bumpsteer adjusters) with tein inner tie rods Front $300 ((The above two are especially important for lowered cars as they return the geometry of the steering arms and the lower control arms back to standard geometry... so less bumpsteer and more control)) - white line rear subframe mount kit $100 (allows subframe setup for better traction or worse traction (drift)) - 18" x 8" velocity wheels with tyres Front and rear $1200 (These wheels clear the brembo brakes without the need for spacers) - HDi front mount intercooler $500 - transmission cooler $40 - koyorad aluminium radiator $200 - turbosmart kompact plumb back Bov $150 - stock turbo with gt3061 internals (turbine and bearings) and turbosmart wastegate actuator. Includes water and oil lines. $1800 - 3" Charlestown turboback exhaust including 3" dump and highflow cat. Twin tip rear muffler. $700 - seimens deka 660cc injectors on rail $300 - deatchworks 300lph fuel pump $180 - 19mm thick phenolic plenum runner spacer $180 - vq25det engine (less turbo) $1900 - auto transmission with transgo shift kit installed $400 - emanage ultimate piggyback ecu with wired in loom and map sensor $800 - innovate lc-2 wideband o2 sensor and controller $120 - greddy profec electronic oled boost controller $350 - greddy infometer touch display $200 - ark design stb turbo timer (slots into stock switch opening in dash) $80 - century ultra high performance 640cca battery (8 months old) $150 - prorack roofracks (well used) $150 - fast fit tow bar $350 Adam 0405326007

Or could be transmission fluid leaking out of the radiator... They have a transmission fluid feed at the bottom of the radiator - if its a stock one. N.B. to find your turbo just follow the intake pipe down from the air filter

Possible hole in intercooler which is forcing blowby out there. Does it run well? Hunting or stalling?

Try bedding the pads in

Left hand side behind glove box. Remove under and side kick panels and you will see it if you stick your head up there. Don't mistake it with the A/T ecu. They're both up there. Its unlikely that you have wiring issues, unless its been played with before... You should ensure that the replacement throttle body is compatible with the ecu (unless you plan on tuning an aftermarket ecu)

That's high oil consumption. Worth trying to find out where it's going. Oil you are using could be too thin also... Checking oil every few weeks as a minimum is a good habit to get into, weather the engine looses oil or not. It's an expensive repair if it runs out.

It's been a while coming, but here's an update: Got a new Deaschworks DW300 and installed it. On start up it was running very rough (4-5 cylinders) with AFR9. The engine stalled - too rich I suppose. At which point the starter motor packed up (have had signs it would). Solenoid contacts are worn out. After being knobbed around by the autoelectrician who has rebuilt a few of my M35 starters before, it seems the solenoids cant be replaced. So, installed another 2nd hand starter, got it running and still rough as guts. Discovered 2 spark plugs weren't firing as their tubes were full of oil. Over the next few days I'll strip the rocker covers and reseal the worn rubber seals around the spark plug tubes. Hopefully this will sought out the issues its got. I'm getting over it. Very close to deciding to part it out. Thanks for your help fellas

Another 15mins back to 13amps and AFR18-19 when any load put on stall. External temperature of fuel tank 32deg, external air temperature 16deg. Not sure how to diagnose vapour lock?

So, left the car idling and took the following measurements on current draw from the pump: When running from cold 25 amps. Gradually drops to 22 amps at operating tempetature with AFR10. Then after 5mins 21amps with AFR11. Another 20 mins 18 amps with AFR11. Another 25 mins 15 amps AFR11. Another 15mins 14.5amps AFR13. Another 25mins 13amps AFR14. Another 15 mins 12.5amps AFR14. When stalled up to 2k at this point AFR18

Thats interesting. The section of cable between the battery and relay including the fuse holder melted and also a 100mm long section of the negative cable directly off the fuel pump inside the tank melted. It even melted the plug on top of the pump! The route is about 4.5m long on a 25amp fuse with 30amp relay. The fuse and relay are situated on top of the battery. The cable then runs through the firewall with the engine harness, then on the side of the passenger footwell and under the rear seat to the pump. The new cable completely replaces the old one even inside the plugs and in the pump cradle. Perhaps I'll try another rewire with 10awg instead. Can't seem to find anywhere local that sells fuel pressure guage, sensor and adapter so that will take a couple of weeks to get anyway.

I'll try to get my hands on a fuel pressure guage and monitor it. The confusing part for me is that when cold it runs very rich and when hot it starts to lean out.The symptoms get worse the longer the car runs. I just let it idle for 20 mins then tried to drive, fuel ratio jumped to 20 with very light acceleration then stayed idling at 18 at which point I left the car on the side of the road and walked home. The wiring route is exactly the same as previous rewire route which was working perfectly fine apart from melting the fuse and cables at each end. It was still operating, just getting very hot due to resistance. Current upgraded wire size is 8AWG.

Fuel system related mods are: - Deatchworks DW300 - Siemens 660cc injectors - Greddy emanage ultimate Its being monitored by a Greddy Infometer touch an Innovate LC-2 wideband

Hi all, I'm a bit lost on this one. Installed a Deatchworks DW300 a few years ago and rewired with cable as suggested by Deatchworks. Since then the cable has burnt out (melted) twice telling me that there is some resistance there. To avoid a fire I decided to upgrade the wire size again complete from battery to fuse to relay to the pump including the earth. Since then the power curve is inconsistent and at anywhere near WOT the engine cuts out and dumps a plume of smoke. When cold the AFR is richer than normal. When hot/engine has been running for a long time there is massive power loss and running extremely lean (AFR16-20) even when gently accelerating from a standstill. Any thoughts on weather it just needs a retune, or cable size too big or buggered fuel pump or fuel getting too hot or another biggeted sensor or perhaps something else? Since its started playing up this time I have replaced the narrowband OEM O2 sensor, MAF sensor and visually checked for intake leaks, however I am certain it is directly related to the fuel pump rewire. Any input greatly appreciated.

Want To Buy for M35 Stagea: - Power steering rack (no leaks or play) - Power steering high pressure pipe/hose/line from pump (no leaks) - AWD front propeller shaft (no play in uni-joint)