Equilibrise

That sounds like afm or unmetered air (intake leak)

M35 Starter motor Hi all, I thought I would recommend a repairer in Sydney after getting much more expensive repair quotes. The starter motor died (complete failure) and wouldn't turn the engine over at all, even when tapped with a wrench. It wouldnt even make the ticking sound that they usually make when they die. I was quoted between $120 and $200 for second hand starter motors from wreckers. New starter motors were upwards of $800 coming from overseas. I decided to use the same repairer that I used for a previous m35 starter motor (different car). Both times cost $180. They use genuine parts for the hitachi unit and end up sounding and performing like brand new. The car now starts on first crank. The repairer I used is: Concord autoelectrical and mechanical repairs on Parramatta rd close to the start of m4.

It won't make boost when in limp mode. Change the cam angle sensors if that is the code that was showing.

If its like mine then awd g35x. If need be, you can change the lower control arm for one off a 350z/v35/g35 then you will be able to use kits for those cars.

That's it. The post on here is under "m35 transmission diagnostic codes"

It depends if currently the front struts have a fork at the base which connect to the lower control arm (350z) or (like on mine) the bottom of the strut is connected to a curved section of metal which then connects to the lower control arm

It does this as a form of protection when there is a fault like fluid too hot or fluid level low. I've posted instructions on transmission ecu diagnostics procedure in the past. If the fluid is fine then check the transmission ecu for fault codes.

Comes from China but is on the au site

AWD g35/v35 for complete set is the same. The rears are the same as g35/v35/350z The front is different to accommodate driveshaft Note that weight of vehicle and front to rear ratio is differentalso...if necessary for airbag suspension. Coilovers also don't work on the rear.

The engine trouble shooting codes are the same as v35. Search for that and you will find what you're looking for. Sounds like your maf is toast. I buy mine from fleabay. Cost $25 or so. It is interchangeable with pulsar, xtrail, wrx, etc. I previously bought an expensive oem maf from Nissan which only last a year or so. The cheap one performs better and will be outlasting the nissan one soon. Worth buying 2 at that price and keep the spare in the boot. This is what I buy: MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR FOR Nissan ALMERA PRIMERA 226806N21A 226806N210 226807J500

I have engine and bcm from different cars. The only parts original are the ignition barrel and ecu. They didnt need to be programmed to work fine.

Wow! If this is true, you really should post a topic on this. So many people have had issues with this. I am on my 4th maf sensor. I will try it out on one of the faulty ones. Thank you! L

Note: you know if you have a stray current if inside the neck of your aluminium radiator has turned black. FYI I have a 53mm koyorad

I have exactly the same issues, however I know that the large alloy radiator is leaking from the top tank on the side (not easily visable). It doesn't leave puddles on the ground, yet drains the reservoir on hot days. The leak, in my case, was caused by a stray current in the car - kills alloy radiators. I found the leak last time I removed the radiator and it was less than a year old when it started leaking.

So, would falsely read higher temps affect tune and power output via the stock ecu?

Usually hunting means that there is an intake leak somewhere.

Sorry, no shafts.

Part number on the alternator is 23100 AM610

Also have: A set of oem coil packs. $25 each or $100 for the set of 6 2 sets of oem injectors. $30 per set of 6 Power steering pump $80

Selling engine bits and pieces or complete engine for cheap. Needs rebuild due to snapped conrod and shattered piston. Could be a good boat anchor! Motor had travelled 140k kms. Front Diff $100 Alternator $150 A/C pump $50 Throttle body $150 Complete engine loom/harness $50 Auto transmission $500 Sensors $ask Anything else just ask, will probably throw out the heads and block in a coupla weeks I'm located in Concord NSW. 0405326007

Check vacuum lines and intake plumbing are all reconnected properly. Intake leaks are the most common idle fault

The m35 master, scotty was right. The problems were all caused by the IPDM (Intellegent Power Distribution Module). Shame its located in an unintelligent location! Although the unit was not wet, it had signs of being wet some time in its life in the form of corrosion which looked minor, except it wasn't. FYI nissan want $1050 for a new one with no fuses or relays included! I replaced mine with another from a wrecker. It was from a newer model m35 than mine. The only physical difference i found between them is a single different relay (seems to have an inbuilt resistor) and no corrosion. Car has been operating well for a week so far. Thanks all for your input!

Anyone know if the IPDM is interchangeable? Someone said that it is paired with the ecu.

Thanks Scotty, i removed the bung a long time ago. There was evidence of previous moisture damage to the IPDM on the inside of it, but nothing was wet when i dismantled it. Thanks Craig, i am actually working around the corner from your place atm. Unfortunately, however, the car is not starting at all so i can't get it to you.

Also, the immobiliser is still out of the car and i have disconnected all aftermarket electronic goodies. Any input is greatly appreciated.