Equilibrise

I recently discovered something interesting regarding aftermarket BOV's and mentioned it in another post, however I thought more of you guys would read this fresh post and possibly benefit from the finding; that is if you don't already know about it. It is regarding the turbo flutter which seems to happen a lot in many driving styles and situations. Being an auto they do tend to flutter a bit as we don't always come off throttle completely (not in the way you would in a manual anyway). The flutter sound is created by the turbos impeller 'chopping' up back pressure that is not released by the bov. This is not good for any turbo as it creates opposing forces on the impeller and bearings and would most likely reduce the life of a turbo. The standard pressure hose going to the bov has a restrictor in it. It is about a third in from the end of the hose. The restrictor reduces about 4mm diameter down to about 1mm and would reduce the pressure sent to the bov to actuate it and therefore, having an aftermarket bov which usually have stiffer spring rates and are harder to open will not open or not open enough except when controlling the accelerator with a bit of gusto. I replaced the hose with fuel line hose and noticed the difference immediately. I'm not sure how much you guys would notice due to us all having different setups, but I thought it would be worth a shot if it means prolonging the life of your turbo and having a more enjoyable ride.

hmmm. Perhaps mine was a little blocked. I definitely noticed a difference. Also, I have the full plumb-back compact bov and not the dual port that you have, if that makes any difference. Here are some pics showing the location (for those who don't know) and what the restrictor looks like inside. It reduces the diameter from about 5mm down to about 1mm.

Just change the small hose coming from the intake manifold to the bov. If you give it a squeeze you will feel the metal restrictor close to mid way.

I also have a Turbosmart bov, and previously had a Greddy one and both of them made the flutter noise quite often, although I believe the Turbosmart is a better unit. Some of you may already know about this; my recent discovery on this issue is that the stock pressure line to the bov has a restrictor in it and my logic was that restricting the pressure to the bov meant that it would be harder to open the firmer aftermarket spring resulting in the pressure backing up to the turbo which ultimately chops the air up making the flutter noise (not good for turbo's). I replaced this restricted line with fuel injection line yesterday and the result is soooo soooo so much better. The bov seems to be fully opening now when it is meant to...although, being an auto I still get the flutter in particular circumstances.

Me too.

Go to Nissan...They have all part numbers. If you are aloud to go for aftermarket check out justjap. I think they have everything that you are after except for the windscreen. Otherwise start searching the wreckers via google. Goodluck.

I live at Concord and work at Newtown at the moment.

For Sale: Greddy Type RS plumb back blow off valve (off M35 Stagea) $80 HDi boost controller with pressure guage (used) $50 Braided stainless oil/coolant line kit to suit RB20 or RB25 T3 with 16mm coolant bolt (brand new - unused) $50

For Sale: Greddy plumb back blow off valve Type RS (off M35 Stagea) $80 HDi boost controller with pressure guage (used) $50 Braided stainless steel turbo oil/coolant line kit to suit RB20 or RB25 T3 with 16mm water bolt (brand new - unused) $50

Damn... I was looking at it too. Anybody on here got it?

Mine shat itself not long ago also. I dismantled it and found that a piece of the magnet surrounding the coil shaft had broken off and was jamming the motor. I removed this, took the sharp edge off where it had snapped and reassembled it and it has been operating ever since. They are quite expensive from Nissan.

Typo: "I am not AT all saying..."

The shaft can not be straight. If you were to make up a different bracket to move it past the turbo, then you would have to cut a large chunk out of the wheel well. I initially bent up the shaft which came with the new actuator, however it ended up 10mm too short. I guess it would be possible to get a female to female connection to extend it though, then the stock actuator could be saved. Before all of this I did attach a helper spring on the outside, however, I was unaware of the spring rate and after reading on other forums that they tend to break after some time, I wanted to reduce the amount of reasons why I would need to get to the turbo again. I am not all all saying that Scotty's mod is no good, but simply that I didn't believe I had it right and the desire for something more permanent. Whichever way anyone decides to go, it is recommended to upgrade/modify the actuator, as 8psi is a little low for what most of us want out of our cars.

Thanks guys

I have just completed upgrading the stock wastegate actuator to a Turbosmart universal actuator with 14psi springs and thought it would be nice to let you guys know how I did it. Some modifications to the new actuator are required as our actuators are not in a straight line to the gate due to space restrictions. First up remove the stock actuator. Some of its parts are required for the new actuator to work: actuator rod/shaft and the mounting bracket. Next, dismantle the stock actuator: cut the ribs (careful of the loaded spring!), undo the rod/shaft retaining nut and remove the rod/shaft. Now cut the housing off the bracket to retain the bracket. Now, dismantle the Turbosmart actuator and remove its straight rod/shaft. To do this you must clamp the housing, otherwise you will never undo the retaining nut. The stock rod/shaft needs to be shortened 5mm on the actuator end and a new thread needs to be cut in to fix it to the new piston. I actually cut a larger than required thread on the shaft and tapped a matching thread into the new piston. Now holes need to be drilled in the bracket so the actuator can bolt up to it with the shaft hole in the bracket lining up with the actuators shaft hole. A couple of coats of paint before it is attached to the new housing would be good. Next, the stock shaft gets installed with the new gromet, spring base plate and springs. Now here is the tricky bit... Apply Loctite to the threads of the shaft and piston. Use a clamp or something similar to pull the piston to the shaft thread under the springs compression and when they meet, rotate the piston to wind up the shaft thread. I compressed the springs as much as required so that I could tighten the shaft as much as possible. Now remove the clamp and align the shaft as in the pic. The final alignment is to be where the blue marks on the bracket are, but only move that once you have the body assembled. Fit the diaphram and top housing over the piston and begin to maneuver it into position before reapplying the clamp with the retaining nut looped over the clamp, ready to screw onto its thread. This step requires a bit of maneuvering, but the easiest method I found was to drill out some holes in a piece of ply and use that on the back of the actuator to get the clamp in the right position to close the housings properly. These need to be closed completely to get the retaining nut on completely. I already had this on mine, but you will also need a female threaded eyelet for the other end of the shaft so that the correct pre-load can be applied to the gate. And voila, a much better wastegate which will wont leach out precious boost too early based on a 8psi spring (stock spring rate)

I was very tempted to upgrade a few things while I was there, but all of the other upgrades are pushing costs. What upgrades are you recommending? Where do I get a shrouded pick up from? I will be driving it hard.

A few more pics including a dismantled oil pump, close ups of the chain tensioners and complete reassembled timinig assembly.

Yeah it is the motor thread... oil is certainly an opinionated subject. All in all though, I have tested out low vis oil and it proved to be a very painful experience. I am still not making a definitive statement that it was the cause of the damage, but I certainly won't be risking putting the same oil in and expecting a different result. Personally I am all for 10w40.

I always ran 10w40 until this one time when the parts shop were out of it and only had 0w40 in full syn left. Call it coincidence if you like, I'm not saying that it was the sole reason for the failure, but I would definitely try to prevent the damage my engine has had.

Thanks heaps for all of your input everyone! The cause could have been either or a combination of: - putting 0-40W full syn oil in and already worn engine (not knowing it was that worn) - turbo bearing granules being pumped through the oil To update, the engine is back together - timing chains, case and sump back on and sump banjo's drilled out to 2.5mm (after reading Scotty's post regarding this). I have a very new looking stock turbo with GT3071 internals, a better bov, new oil lines and an emanage ultimate. More pics with next post.

More Pics:

Yes Scotty, massive job. Yea they were the missing o-rings. I have got more now and timing case is on. I was originally going for a GT3071R, but for some reason was recommended the 3076. I will speak to the guy in the morning anyway. I will have to go for an emanage, injectors, etc. Do you guys know of any decent tuners in Sydney who are at least a little familiar with our cars? Craig, It's just the turbine that is being replaced and stock housings kept, so from my understanding all attachments should be the same (except for oil and coolant lines), yet I have been wanting to change the poorly designed suction pipe for some time anyway. I'll give you a bell when I get 5 mins spare. More pics tomorrow.

Where to start.... Had an engine knock a couple of months back. It was recommended to replace the engine (which I probably should have looking back on it now) as several diagnosis' suggested that the noise was due to a worn bearing, although every diagnosis said that it was a different bearing. So I decided to do the rebuild myself, as the cost of doing all the work myself and the cost of replacement parts was assumed to be cheaper than the cost of another second hand engine and having a wife and kids to support, money can be tight at times. I removed the engine from the sad looking Stagea, dismantled and found the cuplrit causing all of the dramas. It was a heavily worn main bearing (bearing for holding the crankshaft in place). Now it gets heavier. As the bearing had been wearing down it released metal shavings (which just sank to the bottom of the sump) and a fine metal dust which in turn was pumped throughout the engine. Because of this dust and crankshaft movement, other bearings were damaged. I installed new bearings and checked clearances with a flexiguage. It showed damage had been done to the crankshaft and block, so now they go off to the machinist. St George crankshafts took the job on and were very professional and friendly. The crankshaft required machining and polishing and the block and crankshaft journals required machining and a tunnel bore. Once completed it all looked brand new and the even saved me a few dollars supplying new bearings at they're cost price. Once the block was home again, I performed a light crossed hatched cylinder hone and a very thorough clean out several times. I dismantled the heads completely. Cleaned every component and every bolt to a point where they looked almost brand new. Installed new valve stem seals and began reassembly with a coating of fresh oil on every bolt and component. It began looking like a motor again and when it came time to fit the rear timing case back on I couldn't find the new oil rings. After searching everywhere and concluding that they must have fallen out of the parts box somewhere I decided to order some more, yet being a Saturday morning Nissan parts were closed. This gave me a chance to have a look at the highflowed turbo and see if I could work out why Stagea turbos make so much noise. Just when I thought my stomach couldn't sink any lower, I found excessive shaft play in the turbine. The turbo had not changed its whine or any characteristics since the day I bought it almost 2 years ago. I'm not sure if it was fine metal from this which caused excessive where on the main bearings or the other way around. I took the turbo to GCG, who did the original highflow (previous owner) and after assesing they informed a complete rebuild was necessary. I decided to upgrade at this point. The stock turbo housings are being machined and fitted with a Garrett GT3076 turbine. I have a new set of braided oil and coolant lines to go in with it. Now all that is left is a fuel pump, injectors, fuel reg and ecu on my power upgrade list, and yet I may have to do those now anyway, just to support the new turbine. Any body want to see dismantle and assembly pics?

Sorry about the late replies. Still for sale.

That was probably me. Are you back on the road yet?