kiwi32

Reground cams have a reduced base circle to increase lift. this means if you have solid lifters you have to shim them to get your clearances right. also they can have excessive ramp rates which will put higher strain on valves and springs.

Pull the trim panel off and try replacing the little black box in the door it has window amp written on it. if you cant get one pull it apart and look for bad soldered joints on the circuit board.

You can buy amber bulbs as they are used in foglights on a lot of small jap trucks

You will need a complete rear subframe out of a gtr of gts-4.

Sorry fella i didnt mean any offence. It is really uncommon to have a bent seat for no apparrent reason. are the runners bent or just the seat frame?

If your really that worried about weight why not just take all the windows out, then you wont need wipers.

You must be a really fat bastard to bend a seat.

A few late model cars use a non return system. I think it is a retarded idea.

Castrol, Rb20e box behind an rb30det the oil must be doing something right

I get mine from a local autoparts shop they are either ACL or permaseal and are only about $25. They have 7 peices one that goes over all 6 ports and then an individual one for each port. A surface grind on the manifold is almost mandatory.

It is ignition primary signal failure, which means one of the coils has missfired the fun part is finding which one,

If the black earth wire on the stereo goes to a wire in the loom cut it off and ground it to some metal in the dash. R32 and r33 do not have an earth wire in the original stereo loom, the park light wire in the loom will test as an earth and when hooked to the earth on a cd player will become a short and blow the parklight fuse.

With a 3.5" exhaust you will probably need the sensor a lot closer to the turbo than where you have got it.

Have you just had a stereo fitted? if so start looking there

We do have a noise limit but it is realistic. When you mod a car here you have to certify it which is basicly an engineers inspection. Anything goes over here as long as you get it certed, you can then get a warrant and rego.

The actual subframes are completely different

What are the wheels on that silvia they look awesome?

I modded the factory switch wiring on a 33 aerial so it was either down or half up, never fully up. it was a girls car and the pioneer didnt put the aerial down when playing cds which annoyed her. Also on r32s the aerial has a booster wire that needs power on it to get any reception it is a black wire with red trace. the main aerial in them is in the back window the one in the front is for am. Aerpro make a good aerial that has a wire you run through the car as the antenna i put them around the head lining. they get really good reception and are a good replacement if you dont want a external aerial

I just did an oil change on my rb30det which is 5000ks old. I used Castrol R synthetic 10w 60 the engine seemed quieter on start up it and it also has better oil pressure when hot Compared to the valvoline stuff i had in it.

A new genuine one here in nz is about $250 from nissan just for 1!!!

I know the 32 speedo is mechanical i was thinking of adapting a 33 speedo into a 32 gauge cluster. Having only 2 wires makes it a magnetic inductance sensor. the 33 clusters only have one signal in which means there is something else between the sensor and cluster, probably a BCM of some sort making it just about impossible to use the sensor and factory speedo.

A random loud tick can also be a lifter gettig a bit lazy.

10:1 compression and 25psi will make a very big bang on 93 octane. that would probably need methanol to live past startup. My rb30det runs 8:1 an 15psi and requires atleast 95 octane to run nicely.

I drove an s15 a while back im 5'11 and had plenty of room. probably more roomy than my r32 coupe where my head nearly touches the roof.

The r33 electronic sender is hall effect so it has 3 wires 12volt, earth and signal. making the factory speedo work should be pretty easy.