Hi5

oh yea, plugged the pfc into a friends gtst and it showed the same problem so is pretty definately the pfc at fault

Right, the fuel pump sensor changes to a black dot in the sensor screen when you try to start the car, so it must think that it is activating the fuel pump (but it isnt). today I grounded the fuel pump so it always pumping when the ignition is on, and the car started. So this means that the fuel pump circuit in the PFC is faulty? I let it idle for 10 mins, then 10 mins with rear window heater on, then 10 mins with A/C on. However now when i start it up, it sometimes hunts for a few seconds, and also the idle is high (1100rpm). If I drop the clutch and let the revs drop while driving they take a while to go below 1100rpm, and if changing up this can sometimes pull the car forward, so isnt ideal. I can get used to it but maybe someone knows a solution? would anyone know where the resistors etc are for the fuel circuit on the pfc? I opened it up and the PCB looks fine, no burnt tracks or anything. finally, will i do any harm running the fuel pump like this. It is an R34 GTR fuel pump, and is 2 stage. It is quite loud anyway, but on idle it used to drop to lower pressure and was a little quieter. Now it is is runing high pressure constantly, will this do any harm? cheers adam

I will take a pic of the screen when I try it again today. I'm going to a friends to go over my ecu loom to check the power and grounding. I did do a factory reset, and i then turned off the boost control. I checked the AFM type and it is set to normal. none of the names were highlighted in black in the sensor sw check.

is it possible that the pro simply doesnt control the fuel pump? as it's designed for drag use apexi might of presumed the fuel pump would be hard wired?

well, i just spoke to the guy that sold me it. He had it in his 200SX with rb25det dropped in, and he says he had his fuel pump hard wired into the ignition, just as above! however, I'm just wondering if there is an option perhaps to make the PFC disable/enable the fuel pump control as it seems a bit odd still.

I wired in my previous SAFC and if im honest my wiring is a bit iffy at best of times. I'll give it a try. Cheers

thing is, the engine wont fire up either, and it should at least once with the fuel in the system? if i plug in stock ecu it works fine

ok thanks argh.

this is from the pfc faq, and that the f/p is checked. on my car it isnt. can anyone verify that this comes on with ignition (but not cranked). My fuel pump doesnt prime with the pfc plugged in.

i already have that fuse and it isnt blown :S

could it be a dodgy ground or power feed? and maybe the powerfc is more sensitive to it than the stock ecu ? :S

I will check the fuses anyway, but as above, when i replace the ECU with the stock one, it fires up as normal. I've looked at paul's guide to no avail I'm stumped

Hi all I've just installed a Power FC pro (RB251PRO) for my R33 GTST. it's the correct model as far as I can tell. The hand commander fires up and doesnt hang or anything. There are no errors in the sensor screen. I've turned the boost controller off in the HC. When I switch to ignition, my fuel pump doesnt prime, and if i crank it it doesnt fire. Replacing it with the stock ECU and fuel pump primes, and it fires up. Anyone have any ideas ? I'd be really gutted if i cant use this ECU

thanks for the kind words as above, they are Rota GTR's - 18" x 9.5" front and rear, +30 ET. They do rub on full lock, but who cares

I know they are different, I have both in my posession, the safc modifies the signal to the stock ecu, and the powerfc is a standalone ecu my car is a 94 gtst My engine was recently rebuilt with tomei cams (256/256), 87mm forged pistons, steel headgasket, n1 oil/water pumps and the usual stuff. I have an HKS evc 5 boost controller, and a trust fmic... so its pretty much stage 1. I have been using an safc2 for a while, and bought a powerfc recently, but im just wondering if it's really worth changing. I'm not planning to change my turbo or upgrade my injectors or anything else, it'll be staying as it is for a long while. I could do with the cash back on the pfc, so I really do need to know if it's worth replacing the safc2 or not! any info appreciated. adam

Hi all, wondering if anyone knew what the colour description is for 1N3. My car is blue with a bit of green in, and as I understand it, it originally had a grey bottom half, two tone style. Just wondering what the name of the colour is, i.e. wine red, midnight purple etc. Also looking for info on 1N4, which is a silver also found on an old (93) r33 gtst.

think I'm going to have to reinstall my old s afc cant solve this problem with cutting out at 2800rpm. Dont want to cut into the knock sensor cables just yet either. Grr

I've set the sensor type to 4, hope thats right. I've set the throttle sensor type to ** (none) for now. I'm still having the rpm cut out problem. Could this be linked to the knock sensors.. I havnt connected them yet, but the safc is giving a reading over 300. Is this because I have connected both grounds?

Hi guys, sorry my first post here is a question I will try to contribute where i can I'm over in the UK, and have a 93 R33 GTST. The car had the original SAFC with 5 dials when I first got her 10 months ago, and since then I've changed a few things, and today I installed a SAFC II. It powers up fine, and seems to be monitoring correctly, but im a bit confused by sensor and car-type settings... I have gone into the etc. menu as instructed, selected Hardwire sensor type, but it then wants to know this: What do i need to set these to? I then go to choose the car type, 6 cylinders, fine, but it also wants to know this: (right hand side) lastly, I have fired up the car, and it idles slightly roughly, and if i push the revs a little it gets to approx 2600 rpm then seems to fuel cut? thats the only way i can describe it. Very similar to the effect my Bee-R rev limiter. Any help appreciated here, if I dont sort it today I will wire my old SAFC back in