Genesis®

tranmission filter? that i am not so sure and dun wanna give you bogus advice. run a search and see what you can find. there's no filter on a manual, only a tiny magnet on the drain plug to attract all the stray metal shavings.

that could be the reason... most mechanics will change one side of the car with aftermarket parts without comparing the size/dimensions of the standard parts. bring it down to fulcrum to have a looksee. make an appt though.. that place is always packed.

with all due respect, i have driven a R32 rb20de before with catback exhaust mod before... the car actually felt weaker. The torque is almost completely gone becos there's not enough back pressure for that push. dun forget that you are driving a heavy car that needs plenty of torque for that push. even for my car, rb25de, i felt a decrease in torque but gain abit of it back when i fitted in a silencer... its better balance now at both low and high end power. my advise is just the air pod and thats it. any other mods like ecu or engine internals are waste of money, esp for an NA car.. trust me, i was in your shoes a while ago and decided to concentrate on the handling of the car instead... such as struts and sways, etc...

i fitted the momo and kit onto my 32 a while ago. (see my bottom link) i made sure that the car is properly align before taking out the standard wheel. there's a device on the steering column that controls the hicas. you have to make sure that its properly align as well. its highly sensitive and i suggest that if the problem still persists for you... get it done again and again till you get it right .. or go see an alignment specialist. also, go for a hard drive around corners to see whether your hicas is kicking in at the right time.

i have seen it done before on turbocharged cars... its best you get it done professionally or with careful detail becos the engine bay looks rather ugly if you dun...

thks guys. i guess i will have to do my research on this issue then. i agree with what Sydneykid said about the rear bar becos that's the same piece of advice most of my mates gave. i will most probably proceed with getting a rear bar and see how the car behaves in corner. if the improvement is insignificant, i will consider a stiffer sway bar. btw Sydneykid, you turbocharged your car? what sorta engine is it in a R32? thks again glenn

count me in too, Erin. glenn

hey guys, i just fitted a front strut bar in my R32 and i noticed that it stays firm and flat whenever i do a hard corner.. however i also feel the back of my car twisting... as if one of the wheels is lifting off the ground. Should i get a rear sway bar or rear strut bar to solve this problem?? my R32 already comes with a factory-fitted rear sway bar and currently has the suspensions. The suspensions mod will be in the future but now, really wanna solve the rear problems first. thanks in advance, glenn

Nrage33 - this is from my R32 experience; i did have the same problem as yourself but not as bad. It was about 9 months and I brought it down to a specialist (http://www.fulcrumsuspensions.com.au). The guy pop his head under and car and came out with the diagnose immediately - the right side of my car is fitted with a different boot (i just got it replaced 3 weeks ago) as compared to the left side. The only way the alignment problem can be fixed is to get the same size for BOTH boot... anyways... he did his best with my car and the problem is 95% solved and i am very happy with it. you may or may not have the same problem as me, but bring it to a specialist to have a look. knore - yup, its called wheel balancing... no rims or tyres are 100% pure balance esp when spinning at high speed. the trick is to add small pieces of weight to balance it out.

dun noe about the 33 but when i fit the momo on my 32, i took extra precaution to ensure it does not affect the hicas... also made sure that one of the clip on the horn is in contact with the metal part of the steering column so that my horn still works. my advise is to get it to a specialist and get the car realigned again.... any disturbance to the steering wheel may or may not affect the hicas. my 2 cents.

hey guys ... any ideas on where i can get my hands on a rear strut bar for my 32? thks in advance glenn

it should be pretty much the same for an auto... it would be best to get under the car and have a looksee. which filter are you talking about? oil, petrol or air ??

thks man... i had a feelin that it was you (not many white lines around) ... i thought you sold your GTST already and getting a GTR soon? the GTS25 sticker is like my car's ID... most ppl from the forum recognised identified with the sticker first...

if you are sliding under the car with your head towards the back of the car.. the filler plug will be on the left side of the gear. If you can find the drain plug, run your left hand (careful when hot) along the gearbox and you will find the squarish filler plug. It sticks out like a sore thumb and there's no way you can miss it. ask for the redlineoil .. chk out www.redlineoil.com.au for the nearest retail outlet near you. run a search thru this forum and you will find more info on it.

i have a 2 1/2 inch and yeah... the Shell fully synth is 1 of the options on my list as well ... but still considering the redline diff oil ...

just got it done today. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=30665

RedLineGTR .. you are a saviour... the plug came off... bitchin little thing...

Clean them both, esp the drain plug. You might noticed some metal shavings from the magnetic part of the plug, get them off... its normal wear-and-tear from the gearbox. Run a single layer of plumbing tape around the threaded end of the plug (not necessarily but i did it anyway... once all the old oil is drained, put the drain plug back. How tight you want it is ALL dependable on yourself... gearbox oil can last for a pretty long time and its usually recommended that you get it changed once every 2 years (dun quote me on that). If you screw it tightly with a vengence, then you will probably end up cursing yourself more then... anyway, i tighten it with a vengence... the rest of the work is pretty straightforward... pump in the new oil (filler hole) till it starts overflowing from the filler hole. once that's done, screw the filler plug back on... again with a vengence. and wala... you got new gearbox oil... btw, i recommend that you get your driver seat covered like i did... once any stray oil gets onto the seats, the stain and smell stays on... next project for me is diff oil change... wanted to do it today as well but going to read up more on the redline oil specs first... hope this helps cheers glenn

just did my gearbox oil change today and heck, might as well take a couple of pictures in case some of you guys are wondering how its being done. before i continue, you have to bear in mind that ANY oil change can be a VERY dirty, messy and tiring job but think of the satisfaction and money saved. THat's what motivated me in the first place. I also felt that it would help me understand my car better :sly: anyway... here goes... my FIRST gearbox oil change in my R32 I needed to get the car high up from the ground so that I will have plenty of room to move around. I thought of car jacks and found these steel ramps at cash converter for only $20!! Each of them holds a maximum weight of 850kg. It holds the car pretty high up off the ground and its great for future use in engine, diff oil change and brake flushing/bleeding as well as some underbody works. PLEASE do remember to (1) handbrake, (2) get the car in gear and (3) chock the rear wheels of the car. Recommended equipment: Get a LONG wrench for that ALL-SO-IMPORTANT leverage(size 1/2 inch) Get a pump and your new gearbox oil ready. tools, torchlight, degreaser, rags, hose, vacuum cleaner and NOW, the fun part begins.... when you are done with your warmups and body flexings... get under the car to the gearbox. There is a drain plug on the bottom centre of the gearbox, there is no way you can miss it. It is IMPERATIVE that you undo the filler plug FIRST before the drain plug!! If you undo the drain plug first and got all the oil out and then realized that the filler plug is stuck... you can start building a display cabinet for your car :tool: The drain plug is usually the harder of the 2 to undo... i had a bitch of a time trying to get it out... broke 1 wrench and decided to get the STRONGEST and THICKEST 1/2inch wrench i can find in Repco... the longer the leverage, the easier it is to undo the plug. Another recommendation i had was to undo both plugs just after a drive so that all compartments are still hot... but the downside of this is that you will have to be EXTREMELY careful of the cat, exhaust piping and the gearbox itself becos it will get freaking hot. make sure you have at least a 5litres and above oil tray for the old oil once the plugs are undone. when the old oil is draining from the gearbox, get to work on the 2 plugs.

got the car up on the ramp and tried again today. I got a thick long pipe and ended up with a broken wrench... do mechanics use power tool to drill it back on or do they handtighten it ??

what's the headcount so far?

tried for almost half a day to remove the drain nut from the gearbox but did not even come close to loosening the dame thing.... how did you guys do it? p.s. tried kicking, pulling, pushing the wrench... and i have always pride myself for having good upper body strength.. until the bloody nut proves me wrong.

i have got side skirts and now looking for the rear ones for my R32. thks.

i am having the same problem recently with my idling as well, but ONLY when the air-con is turned on. When i give the car a slight rev, the rpm will drop as low as 600 before bouncing back to 1000 again... my guess is the belt or the fan clutch but would like to heard more comments... thks

wat are the wordings on the back of the car? ... cant really read them from the pixs... does it say 'skyline' as well?