bloodzkull

that's awesome. me and my old man have been toying with the idea of making a lo cost. our plan was to use a ca18 turbo though. only problem is i have wide shoulders and barely fit in one by myself

hmmm dirt garage do you think it is all clutch. maybe something not set up right? also how much did the jim berry clutch cost?

hmmm i am sort of leaning towards an npc twin plate as i heard good things. anyone have any feedback and contact details? also rough price?

ok basically as part of my rebuild i will be going a new clutch but i can't decide between a jim berry single or twin plate of some description. car will be putting out at least 330kw at the wheels (what it was doing before rebuild) and only cams being changed so not expecting much more. car is a 32 gtr and is NOT daily driven. only weekends or when i want to go out during the week and don't feel like driving the work ute.

hmmm i am pretty sure a microtech has pretty large gaps between the mapping points. even more so when the revs get right up there. power fc is probably the most user friendly ecu. but is really nothing more than a chipped nissan board. a microtech is more like a midway between haltech/wolf my advice if you are happy with the power fc. then stay with it. however instead of a microtech look at a haltech or wolf v500. i can vouch for the wolf personally.

+1 for spark cut rev limiter and scare the f**k outta them

the first question is what is the rated towing capacity of a 32 gtr. wonder how well you will be able to tow with a tripple plate clutch?

i happen to know of a soarer that's using a wolf v500 and also controling the auto box with it. give rpm performance at caboolture about it (54993932) however it will be a more expensive option. worlds above the PFC though

hmm any more pics.

hmmm GTR for the win. both are grea cars. and if it's only for the weekend both will be a good car. but depends on what you wanna do with it? do you want to hit up tracks and hills on the weeken and go cruising? or do wanna maybe do some drag stuff and then go cruising? ultimatly the supra will be faster in a straight line for less cash. but that's only in a straight line. and as far as giving it a thrash on the street (NAUGHTY) the gtr will be better for everything but skids. unless you have a 32 and a attesa switch

dude just get a 32 gtr give your missus the excel. sell your xr6 and get a gtr.

^^hmmm very intresting. that was the v4 yeah? was it mounted in the kickpanel like stock? might be worth finding out if it is a common issue with the v4. i haven't had any problem the the v500 though. strange that they didn't want to know about it. when i have dealt with wolf they have been more than helpfull. maybe just different person within the company or something

what wrong with the d40 model (new shape) i know of at least 3 (one being my parent's that i drive regulary) that haven't had any real issues at all? all are used for towing and four wheel driving and just general town driving? thier only downfall is they are pretty big and lack of ground clearance. but you don't buy a new 4wd to go do harcore four wheel driving do you

very true. did you know the power fc actually uses a factory nissan board in it. give pete from rpm performance a call on 54993932. he shouldn't have a problem tuning the v4. he tuned my v500 and did a great job. i actually upgraded from a PFC to the wolf and would never look back.

the bores on my rb26 where still showing the factory cross hatching. perfect round and no machining nessacary for a standard sized set of forged pistons. well the front 5 where. number 6 had a broken ring land and ever so slight scoring because of it. a slight hone might have gotten ridden of the mark but decided not to take the chance.

hmm sell the z32 afm's. sell your standard ones. use extra money for a haltec or my personal favorite (short of 10g plus motec) the new wolf v500. just buy something that uses a map sensor and be done with it

that's normal oil pressure i am pretty sure. the tu tu tu noise is flutter. maybe on of the blow off valves isn't opening properly? pods only make any sort of induction noise louder. dunno about the speed so much, define low speeds and the hard to get into first gear thing is pretty much normal on most cars

i wouldn't be worried about middle of top kink, if it was a mistake it was a good mistake. check what i just wrote in this thread : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...nt-t213242.html basically do the oil mods. it's what cost me an engine. p.s. chivas regal was on sale for 30.00 a bottle. plus some of the black dougles a mate kept givine me

ok. when i bought mine it was advertised for 23000. got if for 20,000 and spent about 1200 to replace all brake rotors get a modplate for the cage (bought interstate so need a new one) and get the road worthy. so all up on the road not including rego and insurance it cost me 22200. the speedo said 125xxx when i bought it. the only marks on the interior where where the full cage (previously fitted, now half cage) rubbed slightly. but now i have blown the motor for spending to long at hight revs. *DO OIL CONTROL MODS* didn't launch mine, just gave it some from first to a little bit in 4th (private road i swear!) basicly the number 1 big end was destroyed, along with a crank that was worn enuogh for me to replace(kinda fussy could have got it off with a bit of machine work). and a cracked pisting ring land in number 6. apart from number 6 all cylinders where perfect. which leads me to belive the odometer was correct. cracked ring land was put down to running 18psi for a large amount of time. try revving it till about 6-7ish then straight off the throttle. cuased i little blue smoke in mine. classic valve stem seal problem in mine but turned out to be the cracked ring land. in summary. get a full check by racq/reputable mechanic then budget twice as much. but buy one. you will love it. p.s. long story for not much, but you get the idea of what someone else is going through so give you an idea.

after chatting to my mechanic. the issue with over filling it is the possibility of the crank hitting the oil in the sump. you know the kink in the dipstick. pretty much the length of the kink above the kink. can't remember how many litres that is exactly. then again go buy a high octane sump and be done with the problems *disclaimer: i have been drinking. might not make complete sence

very intrested to hear anyones experience with the 595rs. i currently have just the normal 595 on my gtr and i am quite happy with them

wouldn't it be fairly hard to stay under the noise limit at full throttle down the straight? or is the meter away from the track a bit.

never having actaully been to lakeside, does that mean the db meter is on a straight where most cars will be at full noise?

i like dogs, so i agree, but hang the owner anyway for good measure. on the other hand i don't like cats, want to borrow a .22?

why'd you buy a petrol one? i assume your talking about the d40 models? my old man had a diesal d40. 2.5ltr 4 cylinder diesal. GREAT car seeing over 650 from a tank when driving in the city. fuel consumption can go down below the 9 ltr per 100km average on highway driving. consumption barely changed an with my old sil80 and a trailer you almost would notice it was there. the old saying goes if your gonna tow go diesel