dead32

so if i adjust the spring tension on my blitz bov to be flat with the locking nut, will it damage anything? would it help with stalling? venting less gas to atmosphere theoreticaly would cause less fluctuations hence not messing up the afm signal? does that make sense? lol

yeah sorry its rb20, ermm i just added to my list, ignition coils (still std) the car already runs a blitz bov( soom to be plumbed back) and i use a hybrid ebc, i leaning towards coils due to the fact std ones are known to f**k up, still any input would be most welcome, oh another thing, what bout a better afm? lol the more i think bout it the more the $$$$ budget goes up, funny that

hey fellaz just pondering atm, i hve fmic 300zx single turbo full xhaust walbro pump apexi pod filter, im just wondering if the stock ecu could handle bigger injectors and a reg, if so what size/brands u guys rekon? or should the money be better spent on cams/cam gears, i dont wana go over $1000 so im assuming cams is out due to cost, it made 260hp at the wheels on 1 bar, oh and its a r32 gts-t, cheers

type m 32 gts-t. 3inch trust turbo back, stock cat walbro 450pump 300zx single turbo huffin 1.1bar apexi air filter, trust fmic made 196.something rwkw, then we backed it off to a better torque curve and made 192. something rwkw, expected e.t at the drags ??????.i would post dyno printout, but i duno how lol

would it cause any issue's to plumb back to blitz bov? the bov kit came with a blitz adapter pipe etc, i would like to retain it as its worth abit and saves me having to source another plumb back item, i could make a small pipe then silicone hose it back to the inlet to the turbo just after the air flow meter? or any reasonably priced after market plumbback items? i would like it not to stall but still retain some music on gear changes

no i dont, it used to run a chipped ecu which caused the first motor to shit itself, i then had a spare auto comp which ran it fine but ignition timming was way off, i got a stock manual comp today, i have a blitz bov on it, its not plumb back, i realise it would overfuel on deccel but i figured with the amount of skylines out there with none plumbed back bov's i thought it couldnt be the problem, all the turbo cars around me atm have vented bov's but no stall issue, am i wroung to assume this isnt the problem?

hey fellaz, just asking for some help on some stalling issue's im having with my r32, mods are as follows, apexi filter,trust fmic,hybrid controller, trust turbo back 3inch exhaust, high flowed injectors? 300zx single turbo (t3/t4) ? stock ecu oh and walbro 450pump, ive cleaned throttle butterfly, iac valve, air flow meter , adjsted the timming and idle itself, the car will idle fine just occasionaly stall sitting still, but 9 times outa 10 it will stall whilst decel to a set of lights, if i dont heal toe it, any other suggestions/procedures to rectify this problem?... had it dynoed, pump cuttin out underload and ecu causeing it to run lean, plus ignition timming at 30deg advanced !! since fixed this problem. timmin @ 15deg now btdc, made 160rwkw under these conditions, i wanted to get idle fixed b4 returning for another run, any help would be great my nissan brothers

ur comparing a 205kw rear wheel drive skyline, to a factory fwd turbo overpriced focus lol, i also work for ford and i own a skyline, id still take my car over xr5 but theyre 2 totaly different ballgames

xr5 has tad over 300nm of torque from 1800rpm onwards, as a result the 6 speed has tripple synchros first 2nd and 3rd gear, plus a proportioning valve in the hydro clutch (clutch in you cant rev dump) . nifty lil car, ive driven them, not to sure bout the holden however.

hey fellaz just an update on my car, i posted my frustraition couple of pages ago, i got hold of a 2nd hand auto rb20det, dropped it in today, next couple of days it should be running, i also managed to do some shopping with the spare change, but due to other things outside my car i have to now sell them lol, such is life, i have a garage saurus plug in comp for sale and a high mount manifold (suit 20/25) t3 flange i believe, lemme know, ill get pics etc once im up and running again, hopefully theres a syd cruise soon so i can give it a good run in, lates

p.s im sorta after specific locations e.g websites/numbers etc, i work 12-14hr days mostly kinda hard to find time to ring around. cheers fellas

i feel stupid but ekw? and i noticed in your sig it has mentioned dutton 2006' my mate from work competed in the dutton rally this year, just wondering if thats what u are refering to. he ran a evo 6.5 makinon nugget, im from syd but thanks for the other much apreciated mate...

if since asked a few mates, ive come up with a rb25 for $1800 just engine, has everything but a turbo (use mine). the car was set to be tunned 2 weeks to the day of when it popped,the car gets daily driven, i dont want a 10sec car, i want one that is smooth and gets me to work, im only 21 and live away from home. money is the issue here, im just wondering your opinions, its easy to say ahh slap a 25 in it, i wish i didnt have this hassle, im thinking just get another rb20, bolt it in, run like less then or around 10pounds, the car never pinged or knocked, it did puff fuel smoke though,not alot, i just figured it was std for a plug and drive ecu to basicaly not do all that much except to dump a shitload more fuel in, satanic, im listening ... problem is my budget atm to get it going is $2000-3000 and 3000 is absolutly pushing it, i wuld prefure not to go that high, keep on posting up, im taking all your opinions in thanks fellas

hi guys finaly got my registration login 'first one didnt work'... no problems now though .. so aprox 2months ago i purchased my dream car and it was all thrills, prob did 500km worth of driving that first weekend.... shortly after this things turned sour, the engine popped the dipstick out, shortly followed by the catch can filling with oil then overflowing,, basicaly 1.5lts of oil for a 10min drive,, not good. being a motor mechanic i stipped the head off as i suspected piston/piston ring failure, sure enough there it was, now the car had 69,000km on it ' came from japan origianly, priv import'..it had a gredy front mount,full trust exhaust, 300zx single turbo running 1bar, apexi air filter,blitz blow off valve all managed by a plug in garage saurus ecu, the car went nice untill all else failed,now im trying to decide what to do, rebuild to rb20?(is it worth doing) or go for a 2nd hand rb25 and bolt that in, only problem is im finding it hard to find prices for rb20 bits, and i didnt realy want to put in a 2nd hand rb25..... just thought id come here and vent my frustration, any glimmers of hope you fellas might add id be more then welcoing, thanks for your time.... dead32