RB25DETC33

not yet, ill pull it out tomorrow and test in in some water.

After the throttle body, before the split pipe, there is a unit towards the front of the motor (it has a black plastic Idle adjustment screw). This is the AAC valve.

So my R34 has started to over heat. pulled out the radiator and cleaned out all the muck around the fins, flushed the coolant and topped it up. Drove for 30 mins and the car started to get hot again. I have a feeling the water pump is gone because the car comes up to operating temp REAL fast, Ive read that the thermostats are supposed to open gradually as the temp increases and slows the rate of increase to a gradual rate. Now Ive driven the car today only to work and back, 5 mins drive home and the car was at operating temp not higher. Im not sure if this is the way to check if your pump is working but I removed the radiator car and then started the car, instantly the coolant rose up and started leaking out of the top, i blew some of it out to lower the height, I check to see if there was a flow of water but there seems to be nothing? If there are any other ways to check can you please help? If it is the pump ill order one this week and spend the weekend pulling the front of the car apart.

Thanks mate, i did an hours worth of look last night found it on here somewhere someone has had a similar problem, they change gbox solenoids, veh. Speed sensor, tps and the problem still exists.... So wanna start on the ruling out part of the job.

No one has had this problem? Today the intermittent gearbox slipping reared its ugly head to the point the whole drive train seemed to short out or cut out, the 'D' light flickered off as the car lost all power and drive, i shifted it into manual mode and the lights intermittently flickered between '3' and 'D' while A/T was flashing, lost all power still and car coughed and spluttered. pulled up at lights and turned car off, turned it back on and a/t was flashing and still ahd no go and no normal gearbox operation. still getting a tps code. im at the point where im just going to buy a new tps sensor. I dont think anyone can help on here by the looks of it.

Th alternator is essentially the same there will be the two bolts that are used to tension and 1 bolt to anchor the hinge. Undo the nut the nut that looks like its going through the long tensioning bolt. Undo the bolt that anchors the hinge (stops you from moving the alternator Undo the tensioning bolt the alternato should loosen up.

To remove the power steering belt, loosen the 12mm tensioning nut below the pump on the right hand side. (on a long thread). Take the nut 3/4 of the way down the thread not off. slacken the tensioning thread which is the 12mm bolt pretty much below the pump(follow that long thread back to the underside of the pump) the bolt sits the the adjustment slot. slacken the 14 mm nut above the pump behing the wheel, can be seen in you pic. once these are slack push the pump downwards and you belt will be ready to pull off To do up again: Fit belt Pull pump up the take the tension Tighten the tension thread bolt Tighten up the tensioning nut on the long thread and tighten to the required deflection. Tighten the 14mm bot above the pump.

Yeh usually the motors last a lifetime, its the switches or amps that blow first. if you know anyone with the same r34 type as you (coupe/sedan) borrow their switch to see if it works.

Pull it apart, then remove the black coil pack cover, refit everything. The car will then run and ull have access to the coil pack plugs. Although coils 3 4 5 will be a bit tedious to reach under the split pipe.

you have to remove the throttle body to be able to get access to the coil pack cover screws. just remove the induction hose as a complete unit with afm still attached. disconnect all the vac lines to free it. the simply remove throttle body indution pipe as one hole piece. You will need to remove the 4 or 6 hex bolts at the start of the plenum. Disconnect the vac lines and remove the part, make sure you know where all the vac lines come from, may be a good idea to take pictures before you pull it all apart.

was it T-pieced?

Well the wastegate should open when u hit boost pretty much straight away when connected directly to a pressure soucre as there is no solenoid valuve in the way. A manifold leak wont increase boost pressure as that is escaping exhaust not reaching the turbo. What kind of turbo have u got fitted? If the gate is still opening when ur on throttle and ur still make stupid boost level sounds like there could be a blockage preventing the exhaust from leaving through the dump.

Well the wastegate should open when u hit boost pretty much straight away when connected directly to a pressure soucre as there is no solenoid valuve in the way. A manifold leak wont increase boost pressure as that is escaping exhaust not reaching the turbo. What kind of turbo have u got fitted? If the gate is still opening when ur on throttle and ur still make stupid boost level sounds like there could be a blockage preventing the exhaust from leaving through the dump.

The car is still playing up, however its only doing it during the day when its hot? Drove the car for 20 mins at night but was fine. This leads me to think its an over heating issue with the electrics tripping out?

Start the car dude with all coils in. If the car is missing while its idling simply unplug #1 coilpack if the engine gets worse then that coil pack IS firing. Plug it back in and move to the next one. Keep doing this until u unplug a coil pack which has no effect on the engine. This will be your faulty one.

Mate your looking for this: http://www.google.com.au/search?q=r34+window+motor&hl=en&client=safari&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=CZQpUeCYC-eYiAeL1IGAAw&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ&biw=320&bih=356#i=1 It will be bolted to the inner door skin(what the door card clips to.) should be located near the centre Of the door.

@xntrq, nah u can blow the relay for one door in the switch panel while others can still work. Happens alot in laurels haha.

Test the motor. Pull the door car off, find the two wires that are connected to the motor, next either locate the 12v and gnd wires and bridge the wires. Or if your not sure which ones are 12v pull the battery out and take it to the door use wires to link the motor to the battery. Just change the terinals to reverse the direction. If the motor goes up and down then ur relay box is munted.

What is your boost controller set to in terms of pressure or percentage of boost? Try disconnecting the solenoid an run a hose directly from the turbo to the waste gate do a run up the street. See if the new gate opens. If it does then maybe something to do with ur solenoid. If they dont work try using another source of boost pressure further along the cooler piping like near the bov.

If u find urself stuck mate , find the wires to the motor and the 12v and gnd wires bridge them to wond the window up until u can figure out the issue.

Might sound like a silly question but do you have the vac lines connected correctly to the solenoid and actuator, I agree with JJMAN (I had this issue also at one stage), could be an issue with the boost pressure signal to the solenoid which is causing the wastegate to remain closed. Maybe a pic of your val line setup?

Hey guys, so my gfs r34 is now playing up. I ran a diagnostic check and it comes up with fault code 43, which is a tps mal fuction. Now i tried to re calibeate the tps but nothing happens. Issues im having include fluctuating idle and slipping trans while in drive as in the drive will engage then disengage constantly. When the car comes to a stop sometimes the revs will drop to as low as 300-400 rpm. It will stay like that constantly but when you blip the throttle it will return to around 700-900 but quickly drop back down to 300. Ive tried jiggling the clips and they seem to make the revs climb and drop sometime to stall point. Ive tried adjusting the tps but this does not fix it. Wondering if anyone has had this problem. Im guessing the tps is munted or the wiring is causing the issue. Has anyone had this problem?

It could well be a timing issue... Since the mechanic has done the timing belt, he may not have aligned the cams up with the timing marks, one of the cams may slightly be advanced or retarded throwing out your combustion timing. But do an ecu check first. eliminate things that the ecu can tell you.

Just do a quick search on ecu fault codes. U will find all the info u need on how to bring up the fault codes.

Sounds like a coilpack issue, if you definitly notice a change in power and exhaust note youve probably dropped a cylinder. If the car idles rough like its not running on all cylinders u can check which coilpack is faulty by disconnecting each coilpack. If the engine changes note again then that coilpack is fine but when u un plug one and there is no change that will be the triublemsome coilpack. Make sure u do an ecu diagnostic to tell u which fault codes come up. If it IS a coilpack issue you will have code 21.