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RB25DETC33

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Everything posted by RB25DETC33

  1. how much for:- - Power steering high pressure hose - Passenger power window switch - intercooler piping if available would need postage to 4558
  2. You need to do an ECU diagnostic to let you know what electrical systems have malfuctioned. Ive heard of the coils causing this but the ECU will tell you what the issue is -CODE 21 is Coil Pack related -CODE 17 is the ABS/TCS Control Unit -CODE 46 is Throttle Motor Sensor related There is plenty of info on how to do the ECU diagnostic and how to read the codes. If you have troubles just let me know. Also, have been driving the car for two days and no issues so everything is good.
  3. As long as the Rb25DET he has is an R33 version as R34 VCT solenoids are VERY different.
  4. So some light on the situation.... After un hooking the battery removing the ecu, un plugging the Throttle Control Unit and then re connecting them, I did another ecu diagnostic and still came up with code 46 and also 17. I checked to make sure the throttle motor went through its start up sequence which it did not, so I unplugged the throttle motor (bottom clip with two wires (Red and Black) on the TPS sub loom clip panel). Cleaned the contacts and tried the start up sequence and this time it ran through its close and open sequence. I turned the car off and then pressed the accelerator all the way down and turned the key to ON and waited 10 seconds. Turned OFF and ran another diagnostic, CODE 17 was gone but 46 was still lingering. after several attempts to adjust the TMS the fault was still present. So I tried holding my foot flat on the accelerator pedal and turned the car to ON and OFF rapidly 5 times in 5 seconds. (I used the door ajar beep as a rough guide). Ran a diagnostic and what do you know code 55. So if anyone ever un clips or tampers with the TMS and gets fault code 17 and 46 try to re calibrate your sensors. - Reset ECU - (unclip battery and brake pedal for 1 minute) - Reconnect battery - Accelerator pedal all the way to the floor and switch car to ON for 10 seconds - Turn car OFF - Turn car ON and OFF 5 times with in 5 seconds. - Re check ECU diagnostic. If anyone can confirm this resets the sensors and the car runs without bringing up these codes again that woud be awesome.
  5. Hey guys, Been racking my brains and searched this forum inside out about this all too common issue. No Luck yet. The story.... Bought a gtt, needed some work under the hood. I changed some vac lines and refitted intercooler piping after mounting the FMIC properly. I unplugged the Throttle motor sensor when i removed the crossover pipe. When the engine was back together I started the car up and it seemed fine, but on blipping the throttle the engine wanted to die, unless i came on it very slowly allowing revs to climb. I read somewhere that if you unplug a sensor on these things that they need to be reset. Now I cant find out how to do a proper reset. I d/c the battery and did an ecu reset, fault code 46 and 17 still came up. I tried to turn the key to OFF and the pressing the pedal fully down while turning the ignition ON, this seemed to correct the 17 fault code. 46 has been a hard one to clear as I dont know how to reset it. Apparently you need to take the sensor through to its limit to calibrate it but when i unscrewed it while leaving it plugged in and ran the dial through is maximum range of movement, error code 13 came up which is a discrepency in volts between the sensor and the motor. so it needs to be connected while being calibrated. Does anybody know how to recalibrate sensors?
  6. lol, glad to see that lip has gone to a good home......looks just like my old front bar hahah....missing my laurel now haha
  7. After studying my gfs r34 i have worked out the lines. The fuel rail and the plenum ar actually the same line. The hose is connected to the other end of the hard line. The piwersteering line does infact go into the cooler piping. Afm side of turbo.
  8. Hey guys, going over the engine in my R34 I have noticed a few open lines around the 25. Had a bit of a search around and found out a couple of them bu I am not sure about these ones... Fuel Rail Hard line....this one isn't hooked up, fuel system has been modified and has a fuel pressure regulator fitted. Plenum underside vacuum hose looks as tho it was meant to be part of the fuel system Power Steering vaccum line from looking at diagrams from the workshop manual it looks like it just connects up to the cooler piping? Is this correct? I have a pretty ordinary cooler piping kit hooked up to this car at the moment. (how I bought it) Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  9. Hey guys as the title states, chasing factory R34 front and rear bars to suit a 4door sedan. Would prefer Black and in QLD but what are the chances lol. Will do Oz wide and any colour. PM me with pics of what you got. Thanks guys.
  10. no longer for sale.....
  11. Nah mate is a track car only.... Anyone?
  12. Missus is gettin agro at me coz its taken up her spot in the garage and wants it gone..... So dropping price to 5500 ono Some pics of the car:
  13. For sale is my r34 gtt sedan track car. Has rb25det neo To4e turbo with external waste gate and screamer. Fmic 3 1/4" exhaist with a nur spec cannon Coilovers. Factory sunroof Triple gauges Chasing $5800 firm. Located: sunshine coast Contact Iain: 0422022887 Pics to follow as im on my fone.
  14. Hey selling my laurel with a s2 rb25det conversion to pay for my new car. Need this gone by tuesday. Has reg till next april just needs rwc. Chasing 5900firm Heres the link to the full classified http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/413741-c33-laurel-rb25det-5spd-man-6800-video-of-car-instead-of-pics/page__pid__6628569#entry6628569
  15. new pwr steer pump new handbrake cable wiper blades roadworthy front tyres. everything else is sweet. No engine leaks fmic is secure pod filter is secure suspension doesnt leak
  16. PRICE DROP.....$6000 FIRM NEED THIS GONE BY SUNDAY! Surely someone wants a cheap RB25DET Laurel.......
  17. Just renewed, has till april next year, just no RWC.
  18. Price drop 6500 firm, needing this gone yesterday now.......
  19. Need to sell my C33 Laurel asap as im needing the funds for my new car. This is my very first car. Bought as a stocker RB20E. 1989 C33 laurel - RB25DET S2 out of a 96 R33. (ks now unknown but was put in under 100,XXX) - 5Spd manual RB25 Box - ISC coilovers all round - Upgraded R33 front brakes - One piece tail shaft - FMIC - 3" exhaust from dump pipe back - GKtech Dumpipe - Front strut brace - Modplated for engine and transmission conversion. - Blitz S-spec EBC -Turbo timer (not fitted) Bad points: - Car has a dent in the bottom of the LHF door, got hit by a neighbour. - Small rust spot starting to form on the LH C-pillar. - Starter motor is starting to become sticky. - Needs some front tyres, rears are brand new. The car had a boost problem for ages where I couldnt boost past 2-3 psi without hesitation. Found out it was due to a ruptured fuel line from the pump to the pump cradle. Drove fine off boost so it was driven of boost for most of the time until i could figure out the problem. Runs so much better and can now see 10 psi which is what it is set too. Car hasn't been drifted or done burnouts, NO LSD. The 25 is healthy as still no leaks or knocks Contact: Iain - 0422022887 Some vids of the car Idling Quick drive
  20. http://www.cars-directory.net/specs/nissan/skyline/2000_8/ Its going to come down to what you will want out of the car later on down the track. Non turbo versions are a bit boaty and sluggish. The above link gives you all the info you need on the differences in model types. 25GT - Non turbo model with non turbo options. 25GT - Non turbo model with turbo options. 25GT-FOUR - AWD variant. Good luck, I've fallen in love with the R34 but would very much rather a turbo version.
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