RB25DETC33

Hey guys, Im looking to get my Laurel engineered with a 25det in it. Brought it up with me from Adelaide and am yet to get it passed. Does anyone know any good engineers on the sunny coast. Anyhelp would be much appreciated Thanks.

These are the same as the ones found in U13 bluebirds, just have a different mounting bracket, take it off and fit your bracket. Cost me $75 from a wrecker, you might have better luck and find a decent priced wreckers.

Posted these to youtube... Window Down: Window Up: Sorry bout the quality, hard to take the videos with no hands. But the pics show what wires to cross.

Rear power window amps are in U13 blue birds but come with different mounting brackets, just change em over and away you go.

I thought I'd post this up for people who have been unlucky enough to have their front power window not wind up after winding it down. You need to take the door skin off and get access to the black amp box. It has a black plug and a white plug connected to it. You need to pull the white plug out and you will see 6 pinouts. To wind the window up you will need 2 bared end wires. Using the2 wires bridge the pinouts in the same configuration in the pic and it will go up. If you want to put the window down you need to reverse brigdes in the same 4 pinouts. This saved me when the amp in my laurel went. Tested this in a ceff and worked fine also. Don't know the configuration for the rear windows yet. If anyone knows then please post it up. Will post up some vids shortly.

Laurels were never sold as a turbo manual package. They were either sold as a non turbo manual or a turbo auto model.

Here are my 2 babies, havent had the cash to splash out on em as ive moved states but they will get treated one day hahaha, one is a bit rough as its a half finished project.

I have a 3.5 inch system from the dump pipe back with a hot dog but its still got a lot of bark. not really keen on forkin out for a new exhaust as i just got this one made up about 6months ago.

Hey guys, I'm from Qld and at the moment Im in the process of getting my laurel readied for an engineers cert + roadworthy. Not sure whether my current exhaust will pass so am looking to see if someone has a stock turbo laurel exhaust lying around that i could borrow, can discuss payment. I live on the sunny Coast cheers guys.

I am currently in the process of readying my car for a roadworthy and one of the things I needed to change were the steering rack boots. Bought the replacement items from super cheap auto. Here is a quick and easy guide of how i replaced mine. TIME: Around 25 mins per boot TOOLS NEEDED: 1 X Car Jack with Tyre Iron 2 X Shifters 2 X SRB-033 Boots 1 x Wire Cutters 1 x Pliers (Possibly depending on how your current boots are secured to the steering rack) GUIDE: The car I did this too was my C33 laurel. 1. The first and most obvious step is to jack the car up and remove the wheel. 2. Before you start undoing anything place a mark on steering arm above the thread and from this mark count how many threads there are between the end of the thread and the nut. (There were 12 on mine, each car is different) 3. Crack the nut on the steering arm by turning it clockwise. Using your 2 shifters. 4. Once the nut is cracked you should be able to turn the whole rod in a clockwise direction to undo the rod from the ball joint. 5. When you have done this you should have the steering arm in two pieces like so. Here is what my old boot looked like. Note the metal wire securing my boot. This may be a zip tie on your car so it may be easier to remove. 6. Once you have taken off the wire / zip tie holding your boot in place, you will need to remove the locking nut you loosened earlier and then slide the remains of your old bot off. 7. Fit your new boot onto the rack, but don't secure it. You need to be able to turn the arm in order to put everything back together. The new boot looks slightly longer than the old one. 8. Put the lock nut back on and then re-join the steering arm and the ball join arm. Find your mark and then screw the nut to the number of threads you counted earlier, but do an extra half a turn so that when the ball joint arm touches the nut you can do that extra half a turn back to tighten it. 9. Once everything is tightened up all that remains is to secure the boot with zip ties. Hope this helps.

saw this for sale awhile ago, was real keen on it, looks like the drivers side rear quarter has taken a beating and fixed up? GL with sale mate!

$1800?

PRICE DROP !!! $1900 ONO. NEED THIS GONE! Can organise transport to interstate. - approx $600 from qld to sa

To get it back on the road you would have to run it through transport qld with roadworthies and such, the new engine number would be recorded and the rwc would state it as being now non turbo. That is if you wouldnt want to run the risk of being pulled over for that stated fact of the car being in their system as a turbo

Thats like saying as long as a person with a hydroponics setup in their house is paying their electricity bills on time why should police get involved. Taking peoples money fraudulently is a criminal offence. If the site continues to keep him listed and he keeps doing it then there could be some serious S@#$ hit the fan and if legal action is taken and the site owners get involved that could lead to bad things also yeh? if a person in a night club causes trouble they get booted, regardless of whether they paid to get in and has bought drinks from minute 1. Hope you get your parts or your money back mate....good luck. Its unfortunate that most people learn from being burnt rather than before being burnt, but such is life.

That raises good questions, i have noticed this also. Could be the whole supply vs demand thing. Plenty of people wanting to get into imports but cant coz of the turbo laws surrounding p platers. Could be that more and more people are buying the non turbo variants as a safe choice in the fact that they are less likely to have been tharshed, or even make money, by buying the models cheap and transplanting turbo spec bits and selling it for profit. What you have said is almost gonna make sense these days for p platers, by buying turbo skylines and tranplanting a $700ish non turbo engine into it and then either selling the turbo engine off or keeping it til you are fully licenced. So long as you do the hard yards yourself.

hey all names iain, made the move from the S.A. to the sunny coast, rolling a white C33 laurel. if you see me running around say hi or give a wave. wheres the meet spot around the coast?

Handbrake - R32 and cables to suit - make sure its mounted on an angle or it will get in the way of reverse gear. I know from experience haha. Manual centre console - Cefiro Clutch pedal box - S13 or A31 Clutch lines and cylnders slave/master - A31 R32 Tailshft - either A31, custom one piece or you will have to join to shafts together i think its an r32 front shaft and the auto rear shaft. (cant remember exactly). As MattNZ said you'll have to brigde the park neutral start swith located next to the fuse box (from memory its the thickish wires 10 gauge i think or maybe 12 black and brown wires.) Engine side of things its best to get a front cut as everything else you will need will be in it. Loom may be tricky as its been rewired to run the CA18. hope helps ya out a bit. good luck with it mate.

Hey all new to the coast, just moved from SA. I drives a white laurel around. Keen to meet some new import ppl. Sux not having a friends network involving cars hahaha. Spewing bout missing that car cruise would have been fun/..\

$2000?

Sorry mate hahah, used to live in SA that might have done you. hahah

For sale is my girlfriends Nissan S13 Silvia. Is currently in QLD but with S.A. Reg Details.... 1988 S13 Silvia CA18DE - 220,XXXkms Auto cream over gold 2 tone paint. Black Interior - Good condition minus a hairline crack in the dash board. Paint is in fair condition, no sections of peeling clear coat. Only the rear wing had a few paint chips. Minor rust along the top of the windscreen nothing major. Minor hail damage to roof and bonnet Factory side skirts. Needs a bit of TLC to get roadworthy - Front shocks worn, new light bulbs and few other things. The other half no longer needs it so we don't really want to bother with it. And my cash goes into my car. Car would suit a project car or someone looking for an el cheapo silvia to a bit of work on to get roadworthied. We are asking $2200 o.n.o. - Will sell for 1900 cash which is dirt cheap for a running silvia. People have said thats steep for what it is. But Ive seen worse on other sites and sold for more. Interested parties please call 0422 022 887