darkstar

These are great boost controlers when you set them up 100% corectly Recommended.

thats very cheap!!

We lay carbon fiber for the body, wings, farings etc at uni, and its good but not as strong as you might think. Carbon fiber is strong to a degree, but its very brittle. It is highly illegal to have it on your car, as you know both fibreglass and carbon fiber shatters on impact, and its quite possible that the carbon fiber can snap in the middle and shear off into the windscreen, or break at the hinges and come into the windscreen. I wouldnt want to rearend someone with a *RP bonnet. have a look at www.wreckedexotics.com for some really farked up accidents involving mainly italian exotic cars and a few 300zx/imports etc. Visualise what a *RP bonnet would do in the same crash. Ricers argue that its good for weight saving, well i say run with 10 litres less petrol and you got your weight saving for nothing. Good for venting underbonnet air no doubt, but i think some funky ducting in and out of the engine bay might do just as good. You could even run a small thermo fan with some ducts and have it comming out the underbody on the non exhuast side. Its a show thing, but it comes at a high price, both in money and defect/accident hazard. BTW, wtf is that "see a zed drift" thing on the UAS website.... thats not a drift, try dumping the clutch after the apex and smashing your deep dish rim in the gutter. farking retard!

We lay carbon fiber for the body, wings, farings etc at uni, and its good but not as strong as you might think. Carbon fiber is strong to a degree, but its very brittle. It is highly illegal to have it on your car, as you know both fibreglass and carbon fiber shatters on impact, and its quite possible that the carbon fiber can snap in the middle and shear off into the windscreen, or break at the hinges and come into the windscreen. I wouldnt want to rearend someone with a *RP bonnet. have a look at www.wreckedexotics.com for some really farked up accidents involving mainly italian exotic cars and a few 300zx/imports etc. Visualise what a *RP bonnet would do in the same crash. Ricers argue that its good for weight saving, well i say run with 10 litres less petrol and you got your weight saving for nothing. Good for venting underbonnet air no doubt, but i think some funky ducting in and out of the engine bay might do just as good. You could even run a small thermo fan with some ducts and have it comming out the underbody on the non exhuast side. Its a show thing, but it comes at a high price, both in money and defect/accident hazard.

Risto, Interesting tip, thanks for the heads up

I think it would be rather funny to do proer sign language and deaf speak to a police officer after being pulled up - if you could keep from laughing! Im sure they will feel sorry for you and let you go..... Rev Zone, so in essence, they can still pop your bonnet under legislation if they know the law themselevs (TOG) regardless if you refuse. Funkymonkey, how did you refuse the copper from opening your bonnet? Could you give descriptions word for word? interested to see how he didnt stop himself from opening it himself. Depending on the reason why your getting pulled up, you can judge what to do in a police situation. Sometimes its good to clam up and say nothing if your actually guilty of something, but if your RBTd and getting your car inspected, its hte car thats 'guilty' not you so its probably better to chit chat, get on the good side etc. Ive had some pretty pissed off cops that looked as if they were going to knock you out if you said anything wrong. Best to leave them alone and not taunt them as you might get into more trouble than you bargined for.

I would be inclined to put somesthing that bulky in the glove box, as it looks rahter tastey for theives....... and police.

Lol im a member of IE Aust and SAE-A but still going to uni to get the degree. AFAIK your recognised by IE Aust when you get your degree and its basically a club for engineers. The Chartered Profressional Engineering speicalising in Automotive sounds right though, check up with the department who told you about IE Aust and the like. Oh, how can you get free emissions testing in NSW if your from another state? Can you get the car engineered in another state yet still have it legal in your state? ie: if i was to get a mod plate in qld for an intercooler, engine change and wider rims for example, can this be OK in victoria, even though they dont use the same system and just defect everything in sight? I think that instead of handing out DEFECTS to every car, it would be better if car modifiers PAID for the mod plate to have that modification, hence regard it as legal. Just a tip, Apparently the EPA in vic allows 1 inlet mod. Whether that technically includes exhaust as well im not sure, but if you got a pod filter with no box, or a stock filter arrangement with a large front mount, its regarded as "ok".

Some advice: is it a major or minor defect? major requires a RWC and to take it to vicroads, minor requires you to take it to vicroads only i think. Steering wheel - get a factory one installed if you can, even if its just from a friend for the day. Bov: Block it off with a flange plate out of steel, or borrow a friends. If its amto, its illegal, if its plubback, its legal regardless. Ride height: Pump up your tyres TO THE MAX they can allow, even a bit more at the servo before the RWC/Vicroads. At Vicroads, they get a roller thing thats exactly 100mm high, and they roll it under your car to see if its hits anything. If it doesnt, its passed.

Similar story happened in in melbourne, where a guy took his brand new 2000ish model XR8 for the complementary first service. Apprentice took it for a spin while the guy waited for his car to get serviced, thinking its part of the oil / filter change. Apprentice didnt show up, but the car was moulded nicely to the back of a truck. If i ever get a car dealer serviced, im riding shot gun with the 'mechanic' or ill drive the damn car with him in it. Dont like it? dont service it. All dealer services that i have seen or experienced are dodgy as. A dumb friend in his new 2nd hand VT commo, with the holden 3 year warranty thing ( as long as you dealer service it) was convinced they did a good job. Half the things that were ticked were not done and it was generally really dodgy. My Mum got a VS commo for very cheap through a friend, ex company fleet car, dealer serviced etc. checked books and so forth, nothing was changed. The spark plug electrode was very corroded (120km will do that) and all the leads snapped bar the front one which was used to check the plug. Oil was like water, and the coolant was shithouse. What are the conditions of servicing the car yourself for the new car buyers out there? i hear that if you use genuine parts (ie oil filer etc) its better if you make a claim. Can you take it to you r_trusted_ garage mechanic to service it yet still claim on warranty? I am convinced that dealers like to see thier cars deteriorate with every service. I figure that they do more damage than good.

Thanks for the reply Al. In regard to the Emissions issue with no bov, the AFM isnt 'smart' enough to measure which direction the flow is in. Backwards or forwards, it cannot tell the difference, as the AFM is a hot wire element (think average light bulb) that measures the resistance as the wire cools. More air = more cooling, and hence a richer mixture as the afm communicates with the ECU. I have made a flange for Mena (hehehe) to block the bov and the vacume lines etc. He wants it done because he thinks the standard bov is leaking boost back into the plumb back system (the valve is quite weak, too easy push it in with your fingers) and also for the noise (VL Turbos are famous for it). I think he is planning on upgrading to a bigger turbo, whether it be a highflow or a different unit entirely. If there is any premature wear on the turbo due to running no bov we can report back here and also inspect the rear cermaic wheel. Ive got a hunch that the cermaic wheel will not fail due to compressor surge, even if was had no bov all its life, but from wear and tear or high boost, as we know the epoxy glue that holds the ceramic wheel on the steel shaft either fractures or expands at different rates at high temperatures, causing the shaft to spin out of control at 100,000rpm and shatter into peices. The exhaust wheel is ceramic, whilst the compressor wheel is steel. Will report on progress with running no bov when the flange is installed. Regards

Al, i am that friend who was mucking around with the vacume signal to the bov. For your information, i now a lot abot turbos and associated performance increases, not to mention built engines as well as performance packages with good results. I was interested to see how it sounded at low boost (about 1psi when free reving the engine a little). heheheh (mena) decided that thats what sound he wanted and i told him that running the hose off the bov and blocking it, youll get the chop-chop noise on low boost due to the bov not opening, but at high boost, you will get the bov to open as it can sense the pressure through the intercooler pipe to open, combined with the nipple on bov being to the atmosphere, the bov will open. The noise everyone refering to is indeed compressor stall. Similar kind of noise that you get when you have a turbo clearly too big for the motor, thus forcing in more air that the motor can consume even at WOT. I told mena that this will not be the best thing to do performance wise, as during gear changes or throttle off he will get backfiring due to running rich, because the AFM will register air going into the turbo and also out of the turbo due to the compressor stall. Such enrichment from an emissions prospective is undesirable, can can cause the car to fail emissions testing. Hence a bov is fitted MAINLY for emissions reasons, not to prolong the life of the turbo per se. Prolonging the life of the turbo might be an arguable side advantage, but its not a primary concern for nissan if they cant pass emission laws. Consider your turbocharger system for this explanation. The turbo is working and rotating in a clockwise direction, generating boost that goes to your intercooler. Since the air is providing resistance to the shaft and compressor wheel, the shaft will have more loading on one side than on the other, because it moves in a a clockwise direction. When the air comes back after throttle closure, its only for a breif moment (2-3 seconds) that the shaft is slightly loaded in the opposite direction to normal operation. Therefore the ware characteristics from compressor stall would be null, as the wear is already biased due to the normal operating of the turbo. Ive quoted Nizpro's Simon Gishus from an article which will help clear things up more. Simon has also spoken about how having a BOV (plumb back or externally venting) can decrease lap times. He noted a 2 second quicker time by using no BOV around Winton race track. The theory is that when the bov opens, it releases the air in the pipes closest to the throttle body. As such the air has to be replaced again, by the turbo when the accelerator is pressed, such a replacement could the factor that decreases the lap times. Also with no bov, you can boost spike during fast gear changes by around 0.5-2 psi, which can make the car all that quicker while setting up for cornering. Most cars in WRC dont run a bov for this reason, as they lift on and off the throttle numerous times to control the boost pressure and response of the car in some stages. I hope this clears up some misconceptions about turbos and bovs together. Bovs have their place both on the street (emissions and also keeping the car a sleeper if its Plumbed back) and on the track (when running high ( 30psi +) boost pressure ). Wank factor externally venting valves have no placement for any performance gain, but a plumbed back can certainly add benefits when done correctly.

Probably better to see if you can find a local GTR, test drive it, inspect it and buy it right away for 27k than wait 1 year for a paid car and not know what your getting. You might not get the fancy wheels, turbo kit and suspension upgrades, but at least you will have peice of mind and understanding of what where exactly your dollar is going. 15 year old imports and compliance is a different story, it could cost you upto 2k to get it complied and about 2k to get it on the road with a RWC. r32 GTR with some goodies goes for around 16k-18k in jap, once you factor in the shipping costs and cost of getting it on the road, buying one already in australia seems to be the better option. You need around 30k for a decent GTR, imported or australian.

great results! How hard was the prep work? Have you done any prep work before on another car? Also, where did you learn to do it, any books, mags, info, tips for others willing to do the prep for themselves (thats where all the labor and $$$ is) ?

Ok im in the process of reading all 25!!! pages (upto page 8) Just like to clarify that Series 1 non turbo blocks, have blanks for the turbo fittings. All series2 non turbo blocks (even some late 86 series 1 blocks) have bungs in place of the usual turbo fittings. You will have 3 fittings on the block, 1oil in, 1 oil drain (big bolt near the sump) and 1 water drain. The water feed comes off the heater hose fitting via a T peice from factory, peice of cake. True turbo blocks are stamped with an A8 at the end of the engine number. Non turbo blocks (even with the bungs) are stamped A6 at the end of the engine number. The engine number is on the exhaust side, near the bell housing at the bottom. Ill add some more comments when i get thorough it all. Pretty great info at the moment, but it needs to be all trimmed down to the relevent bits for the conversion, perhaps in a document or a modified version of the thread.

check your email!

wow, r33s fetch a high price up in NSW. Something like that would be lucky to fetch around 25k in Melbourne. Stock standard r33 gtsts are around 16, mild modified around 18-19 etc. r32 GTRs 91+ models range from 25-35 if that. Did you swap or did you sell the car and buy a GTR? How much did you sell the car or and how much did you get the R?

Theres an exact Mockup (form the outside) of the initial D car, right down to the TRUENO decals, yellow foglights and wheels, with the lates AE-086 around melbourne. Looked great, not sure what motor he has in it, but it looks to be an AE-86 imported from japan, as the TRUENO wasnt sold locally here, only the Levin _Hachi-GO) that Issuki (really anoying guy with the big mouth) drives and thought it was a 86 lol

Whats so wrong with Julian? Care to back up why you hate him so much? Am i missing something here or.....?

there should be a hot line. Im pretty sure QLD and NSW have them on their websites, vicroads would have too.

who pays for the EPA check? Do you get a fine, or do you have a fee that you have to pay to get the EPA check. If you fail, i think you can get a fine and/or an extention to make the car comply, if it doesnt comply after 3 times, then you pay a big fine and pull the car off the road for good. Something like this anyway. If the victim doesnt pay for the test, and the police decide to EPA everyone (seems to be the norm thesedays) then the epa could get stroppy over the costs of such epa test, and perhaps instruct only EPA those cars that are suspicious, not stock. What happens if you get multiple EPA's but you pass them all? Can you perhaps consult the EPA and tell them to stop wasting your time? Really, its a little childish, getting requests every month or so when the car is perfectly sound (regardless if you return it back to stock or not). A lawyer in a new monaro, when they were new, was pulled over by a cop and majorly 'defected'. The lawyer took it to court, sued the cop for a variety of things, such as, loss of work/production/time amongst other things and supplied his bill of a few grand to the cop. Laywer wins, cop station has whopping bill to pay due to the cops greedyness (the laywer probably sued the police admin, not the actual officer). They have a gutless approach these days. Its all about the radio in the plates, and mail out the fine. Pathetic really. For the turbo crowd, its just a matter of bolt on/off, but for the worked naturally aspirated people, such as V8s, the whole engine needs to be stripped and return to stock, especially if its running a higher compression through speicalised pistons or shaved heads, and perhaps a solid lifter valvetrain. Did the EPA do a special proceedure with a microphone pickup on a tripod, at a certain distance away from the car, with a whole lot of other variables, or did htey just stand with a dB meter? I think there is a speical way they have to do it to test, to make sure hte experiment is the same as the standard experiment. Also, did they have a book and went through your enigne bay, ensuring that your hoses are connected in the right place and so forth? They do take photos of non-standard items that they want changed, and refer to them if you dont pass the first time, or even if you do pass.

The standad cast pistons have different tollerances than forgies. An enginebuilder should get the bores matched to the pistons used in that bore only, to get a better, overall balanaced engine. Some aftermarket forgies expand at different rates due to the different material, and piston could be a few thou smaller than the bore which will cause the slap to occure when the engine is cold. As the piston warms up (5-10 mins to get eveything warm) then the tollerances are better and more to what you would expect. You will blow your motor if you were to give it a trash when cold running forgies. Maybe not in an instant, but do that every time you drive your car (even comming on 6psi + boost) then its a road to trouble. In warming up your engine, your warming up the fluids which are at different viscosities when warm and your giving everything a chance to expand to the right tollerance. Iron expands differently to ally, the powered steel conrods expand differently to the steel block and metal bearings etc. Some car manufactures run forgies standard in daily driver cars, but they have invested millions in fabrication and have designed the engines to incorporate with the ups and downs of forgies. Using an endoscope might yield some results, particularly detonation signs, burn characteristics and other things that might be of interest.

The fancy iridium and platinum plugs are great for cars that are factory, and no forced induction. Greater service intervals and so forth. For performance cars, standard plugs with the right gapping, and perhaps running a slightly colder plug does the trick. A freind had a misfire just as he got on boost on his soarer, running 1 bar. While in the car you couldnt feel it or notice it, but on the dyno you could clearly see that was struggling at a particular point on the graph, and it was doing it almost all the time. Gapped down to 0.8 and ran a colder plug, using standard NGKs, problem solved and t he car runs better. He has platinum plugs in there before, which were fairly new. The iridium plug has a very small tip on the end of it, and its very fragile, expecially when exposed to the elements of high boost. Even a light detonation pulse with the front focused on the centre or starting out from the centre, could melt the tip or deform it in a way that the spark integrity is sacrificed. 9-10 second vl turbos run approiately speced standard NGKs with no problems.

has anyone got a pic of what this support is exactly? Im a prospective r33 buyer, and im curious as to what your reffering to. I know that the soarers have a large aluminium reinforced rectangular section bolting on to the front chassis rails which supports the front bar. Im visualising something similar for the r33, but im not sure exactly. Thanks.