Murray_Calavera

What extra parts are you thinking you'll need to run e85 compared to e30?

Would this not be the same for the exhaust you've posted up? If your exhaust volume and emissions are fine, why does the brand of pipe matter?

First thought, have your current injectors flow tested. If they test fine, keep the diagnostics going. It's not the injectors. If the injectors are the issue, find some new or used (cleaned and flow tested) injectors. While I really love a good excuse to get a modern ECU installed, just needing new injectors probably isn't a good enough reason to do so.

@sunsetR33 There is obviously a huge culture gap here. There is nothing in place like this in Australia, where if you fit a Mines branded pipe and later replace it with a Jun branded pipe, both pipes are essentially identical - BAM - huge penalties! Where is the Mines pipe?? You can't have a Jun pipe when you said you had a Mines pipe! Makes no sense to me. Surely makes no sense to anyone else here either. I'm sure a lot of us would agree that our registration/engineering system is pretty stupid at times, but it's not that stupid. *** More serious question here. If you replace a factory rubber hose with a silicone hose, is the car illegally on the road now? Does it become legal if you have certification of what brand the silicone hose is? Then would it become illegal again if you replaced that silicone hose with a difference brand of silicone hose? And then would it become legal again if you had certification of the new brand of silicone hose? I really want to know that answer to that question.

Is this a trivia question or is there an issue you'd like help with?

We are talking about different things, all I'm saying is there are plenty of people out there that don't stop modifying their car after it has been engineered.

I'd say the most common scenario is the car's build has 2 stages, all work that can be engineered is done first. The car is passed then the second round of mods start, all the ones that can't be engineered lol.

Things change over time but all that matters though is that the vehicle is compliant with the rules that were in place for the year when it was constructed. Go back far enough, cars didn't have seatbelts or catalytic converters. You can still legally drive them without a seatbelt or cat fitted. It's not like vehicles need to be updated every year to match the updated ADR's to stay road legal.

I do

You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer. Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu? Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster.

Maybe something like this - Plus this -

As GTS mentioned, it takes a bit of faffing, some fiddling and a little modifying. With the strainers, you can buy different styles. Some sit flat on the pump, some angle down. Here are some photos of mine, ignore the ugly welds lol.

Strange your posting about this being an issue. Move the harness or change your wheels or run more camber etc. Have the thing not touch the thing so it doesn't destroy the thing. Short answer, no. Slightly longer answer, the factory fuel gauge is measuring resistance. You need to wire in the FPG fuel level sender into the original factory fuel level sender wiring. I drew you a picture to explain this one The factory strainer is quite long, reaching down into the bottom of the tank. Safe bet your aftermarket fuel pump has a little baby sized strainer that probably doesn't even point down towards the bottom of the thank. Solution, move the pump lower down in the tank, or fit a longer strainer, or do both. I did both, I've run my tank down to 5L remaining and the car still drove fine.

What ECU are you using?

I'd say the easiest way is, pick up a extended and baffled sump with fittings already welded on. Here is an example, it has 3 x -10 fittings https://shop.maatouksracing.com.au/products/rb-extended-and-baffled-sump

As strange as this sounds (as they are fixed back), my Bride Xero CS seats are the most comfortable seats I've used. I vote go genuine. The only downside I've found is on very long drives, you can't reposition your body while driving. So even though its comfy, being locked in the same position eventually becomes uncomfortable. I find myself stopping every 3 or so hours to stretch my legs on long drives.

Car lives in a garage, so not an issue. If it is an issue for you, I suppose you could hook this up to the battery and run the connector down to somewhere you can easily reach when the car is parked and locked up. Then I guess all you need to worry about is having your charger stolen lol.

Yeah it's a thing unfortunately, almost every Skyline has some rust somewhere. Do you have another car? If the GTR isn't your only car I'd say relax, it's going to be fine. Don't let the car bankrupt you, just take it slow. Learn as you go and only spend what you can afford to.

My first thought is to get another dash surround and use that. Keep the signed one inside the house as memorabilia.

At the Botany heavy vehicle inspection centre. At the time there were only 2 locations that did IM240 testing for free, the other location was at Penrith. I did a quick google, seems like the Botany and Penrith inspection centre is closed now though About an hour of my time. At the time you could. They are closed now No it was Government run, the site was attached to the RTA from memory. The guys running it at the time were awesome, if you didn't pass the test, they handed you the results and said make changes to your car/tune and have another go later. You drove in registered, failed, and drove out registered. Obviously though if you were defected, sent there, failed. You remained unregistered. From my 5 minutes of research (have a look at the date on my test results) looks like things have changed. So, I can't see any way to get this test done for free now Seems like you'll need to call around the engineering places doing the Vehicle Safety Compliance Certification Scheme or call around workshops with a dyno and try and get a RG240 test. No idea how expensive that is though or how easy it is to find a place offering it. Bit depressing learning about this now. The first car I had engineered in NSW cost me about $250 all up.... So kids these days can't buy houses, looks like getting your car legal and engineered in NSW is another thing on the list of things they can't afford. Great.

@GTSBoy Wouldn't you just prefer to have a modern dash though? Even if you could wave a magic wand and have the fancy gauge cluster your describing, a modern dash would do a million more things and do a better job of it.

Would you really prefer pillar gauges over something like this? https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-067010-haltech-ic-7-digital-dash-kit/ Or if you can spend more, this? https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-068000-haltech-uc-10/ I could write a thesis about how much better a modern dash is compared to a series of gauges.

The check valve is just a little one way valve to keep the fuel line full for the next time you start the car. With my old DW400 pump, you'd key on and have zero fuel pressure. Crank the car and still have zero fuel pressure. Would take about 3 or 4 goes at starting the car for the pump to build fuel pressure and finally start. Sounds like it's a safe bet that it has one considering you didn't mention any issues with cold starts.

Ah, nice. What's the go with the check valve situation? I'd assume it would have one considering its a low flow pump so should have a heap of room to work with.... but you never know with DW lol.

I'm glad they have changed (fixed) that. It would be maybe 5 or 6 years ago when I bought a DW400 "skyline specific" kit, sure the sticker on the box said it was a skyline specific kit.... but it was just the basic fuel pump wiring kit. Even the pictures on Just Japanese show the generic wiring on this skyline specific pump. So maybe its a very recent change?