Murray_Calavera

What ECU are you using? The flex sensors I'm used to working with normally cost around $300. If you don't have a way of tuning the car, how do you plan to safely run e30?

You've never bought something online before?

If the tyres were fitted when new, I wouldn't expect much over 5 years of use. Especially if the car lives outside full time. If the tyres had been stored under ideal conditions and are being purchased new, I'd fit a set of already 5 year old tyres if I only expected to get 1 to 2 years of use out of them. I've purchased many a set of new (but quite old) tyres from St George Tyres when I just needed some decent rear tyres to drift on. Here is a pretty crazy example, can't say I've ever bought 11 year old tyres from them before though lol. https://www.stgeorgetyres.com.au/momo-tyres-245-45-17-outrun-m3-official-product-by-momo-italy.html

Called it! Just wondering, why did you pick this site to ask for help and not like a local facebook group for Subis?

Where are you located?

Seeing as it's an 04 model, I would be hitting up wreckers first.

Can you export your tune and upload it here for us to look at? Would be much quicker for us to diagnose that way.

The easiest option might be to just spray a bunch of fish oil in there. At least that way you can feel like you've done something while you continue to ignore it

@Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this - Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand. I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted? Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal!

My crystal ball says that when they replaced the pads, they didn't replace all of the brake hardware (could be a missing shim, pin, spring, etc). Finding a low dust pad should be very easy. Have a google for things like, low dust / soft pad compound / easy on rotors. Your dust primarily comes from the rotors getting eaten up by the pads.

Yeah I had the probes on the battery terminals. Sounds good. What reading should I expect to see in a car that runs well?

Are you going to delete the stock damper or are you just replacing the fuel lines and keeping the stock damper? There are also options for sexy ones if the stock one is too ugly for you lol - https://www.radiumauto.com/Fuel-Pulse-Damper-Inline-Kits-P751.aspx or https://www.radiumauto.com/Fuel-Pulse-Damper-Direct-Mount-Kits-P759.aspx So sexy.

If I had to guess, he is calling the fuel pulse damper a restrictor? Also I don't think you can post photos till you've got 10 posts under your belt.

When you key off, the volts come back up to normal on the battery. Crank it and back to 8volts. We tried it maybe 5 to 10 times, same thing every time. I've never done this before, how do I do this? Funny story. When my mate installed the starter, he only had the connectors done up finger tight. When we tried to start the car the first time, the starter motor got cooked. The new motor didn't come with any accessories, the starter motor in the car now is from a wrecker. I assume its good but can't 100% confirm. The battery is like a day old, we bought it then started trying to get the car firing that day. I mean it is possible that a brand new battery is faulty, however after the above starter motor story, I'm inclined to believe my mates handy work is to blame and not the new battery lol.

Hoping to get a few ideas to help troubleshoot this issue, I'll try to keep it short. A mate popped the motor in his 2018 LDV T60 with the 2.8 turbo diesel motor. He swapped it and I was his phone a friend when he got stuck. The new motor is in, however it won't fire. The battery is literally brand new, when you crank it the volts very quickly (say 2 seconds of cranking) drop to 8 volts and the engine stops turning over. Watching the belts, I'd say they move about 5cm before coming to a stop. We put a booster pack on, no change. The only potential issue I'm aware of is, when we pulled the motor the grounding strap was still attached. The strap copped a thrashing before we realised what was going on. It looks okay-ish but it's going to be replaced to rule it out. The main challenge is, I wasn't there for 90% of the work. This is his first time doing any major work on a car and he was learning as he was going. He thinks everything has been put back together properly, however I'm not entirely confident that this is the case. It would be good to get some ideas about what else to check. The car isn't spitting any codes so that doesn't help. I've attached a photo, because why not lol.

If you are genuinely considering trying to get this engineered, I would strongly advise finding the engineer that is happy to sign that off first before you put the hole in your car. I've seen cars get defected for this and not be able to be put back on the road as no engineer they spoke to was happy to sign if off.

I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same

I've also got a quick jack. I would never get under my car again without using it. While it might be quicker to use a jack and stands, it is such a quality of life improvement that I wouldn't have it any other way now. How much slower the quick jack is to setup will be based on your circumstances. Can you leave the jack rails on each side of the garage? Can you leave the hydraulic lines attached? etc. If you can drive the car into the garage and simply push the jacking rail thingos under the car into place, it is super quick to setup and use. But if you have to pull the pump unit out of storage, attach the hydraulic lines, wheel out the lifting rail thingos.... yeah takes a bit of time. Having said that, I would still prefer that to using a jack and stands lol.

@joshuaho96 Hmm considering the drama you've seen/experienced, have you looked into getting a built complete long motor shipped from Australia? Considering the AUD is basically monopoly money when compared to the USD, at a glance this seems like a good option?

Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time. I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo.

Nah, shouldn't have made any difference. Reds on, or car running, should be same same for what you were doing.

Indeed!

If it is the case that your stock dash high beam light lights up as it should, all you have to do is tap into the power wire for the high beams dash globe and feed it to pin 25 on the Haltech dash.

I thought you said the stock dash high beams light doesn't light up when you push the stalk forwards and lock the high beams on?

Yeah ok, so this was an issue prior to installing the Haltech dash. If you want it sorted, time to start chasing the factory wiring to see where the circuit is open. But if it didn't bother you that it wasn't working on the stock dash, I suppose it doesn't matter if the Haltech dash also doesn't work?