Murray_Calavera

It's so pretty, but I cry at the price (this setup was about $7,500 USD)

Yep, I installed it, the sensors, wired everything up so things like the factory blinkers work etc. Fortunately it's not a hard job, just time consuming sorting the wiring out. If you think this dash is nice, you should check out the actually sexy dashes lol. There would be a fair few people out there that think the IC7 is ugly. The new and sexy Haltech dash - https://www.haltech.com/news-events/uc-10dash/ Here is a, I hate having money option from Motec - https://precisionracing.com.au/product/motec-c1212-display/

@DraftySquash Yeah... maybe think of those gauges as a super rough estimation of oil pressure and engine temperature. If you want to see your actual engine temp and oil pressure, you're going to need an aftermarket solution. I'll post a photo of my dash, this is a much neater solution in this day and age. I can't think of any reason why someone would start adding individual gauges. So grab your dash, then add sensors for all the extra things you want to see. As for what to expect from oil pressure, super quick run down = cold oil, higher pressure. hot oil, lower pressure. Low revs, lower pressure. higher revs, higher pressure. The values will change based on the viscosity of oil used, the actual temperature of the oil, the type of oil pump used, then more nuanced stuff like clearances in the engine.

Yep, that's crazy. What is the go with stuff like this? https://creativewerksinc.com/product/pwm-controller/

You'll be fine mate, it's an easy job

No punish for a full tank of fuel - so good! Only the connector was dead in the end. With regards to PWM, is anyone doing kits with everything needed in them to get you up and running?

The front yep, one side at a time. The rear though, under the diff you'll do the rear all at once which is nice

I'll just leave this quick tip here after reading your joys of getting the car in the air. It should take no more then 10 minutes to get the car safely up on stands. So for the front, jack on the tow recovery points (marked in red). Put the jack stands under the lower control arm mounting point (marked in yellow). This photo is of a R34 GTR, however the process is the same. For the rear, jack under the diff (marked in red). Put the jack stands under the rear subframe or where the lower control arm mounting point (marked in yellow). Which point you use will depend on your stand, pick a nice stable point. You've probably already read this but it's worth repeating. When jacking up the car or using stands, stay away from the chassis rails/pinch welds. Even the factory jack point, stay away from that too unless using a factory jack. I used those jack points for years without issue until I turned into an old man and bought a QuickJack lol.

Thanks everyone for the warnings with this setup. I have the sads but at least I know what I'm in for. I'll put the frenchy or radium setup higher up on my priority list now.

Well this is depressing When the terminal failed, what did it look like/what happened? I didn't even realise I had melted the factory connector until I tried to remove it and couldn't. Then looking at it from the inside of the fuel hat, I could see that the internals of the connector had melted. It would be good to get a heads up what to keep an eye out for with the Taarks terminal. I would love to eventually run something like the FPG setup, but I cant see me installing it with the tank in the car. Very not keen on removing the fuel tank at the moment, I'll probably line this up for when I eventually do my rear subframe bushes.

So small update on my current situation.... I've finally been punished for trying to pass 20 amps through the factory connector. It's melted. I'm in the process of installing these - https://www.efisolutions.com.au/electrical-bulkhead-terminal-submersible-e85-compa Fingers crossed that's all I need to do to get back up and running again.

If there is nothing wrong with your current coilovers, I would not roll the dice on a upgrade to one of the coilovers you've listed above. I strongly expect that you would not be able to tell the difference between the two. I'd suggest that you keep saving up the pennies and pick up something from MCA or Shockworks.

I've got 60L of e85 in there at the moment

The price isn't the issue, it's how hard my fuel pump is to remove now. I fabricated a custom bracket so my pump sits on the very bottom of the tank (I ran the tank down to 5L remaining to test it, works well). But it is a fkn NIGHTMARE to get the pump down into the tank now =/ words can't describe how much I hate fighting with the fuel pump/hanger now. The other issue is reliability, I'm driving down for WTA in a couple of months, I'd be less then impressed if I was half way to Sydney from Brisbane and my pump fails again =/ The other issue I had was my car battery was slowly failing, with low battery voltage my fuel pump couldn't keep up with what the reg was asking from it. I've replaced the battery and my fuel pressure is back to being perfect. As for the low voltage situation that killed my previous battery, I've got a 150amp alternator sitting on my desk waiting to go in. Fingers crossed that will sort that issue.

So last night pulling away from the lights, I lost power for about 1 second. Bit weird, but I kept driving... 5 minutes later the pump completely dies. When I tried to start the car, the pump won't even prime. I left the car for about an hour, tried to start it and it all appeared fine. Pump primed, car started, got the fuel pressure I should have.... Start driving home, 5 minutes later it dies again. I'm stuck in a shit spot this time going up hill with a car right behind me, so I just let the car continue to turn over while praying to the fuel pump gods. After about 2 minutes of turning the engine over, the fuel pump came back to life and I got home (only about another 5 min away). So I've been digging around online, it seems like the 525 fuel pumps really don't like to be run at 100% all the time. I've found quite a few examples online of people killing their Walbro 525 pumps within about a year of usage when they are run without PWM. So, my pump is an Aeroflow 525 (AF49-1057) and I've been running it at 100% without PWM. I'm thinking the Aeroflow 525 didn't like being run at 100% and has burnt itself up. I really am sick of dealing with fuel pump issues, my current thoughts are - 1. Use a Walbro 450 and run it without PWM. It seems like these pumps hold up pretty well to being run at 100% all the time. I only make about 350kw and can't see me making any more power any time soon so this is probably a fine option. 2. Get a Walbro 525, run it with PWM. I know doing this will annoy me as I feel like with only 350kw, its extra expense that I don't "need" and I'll be thinking the whole time while setting it up that I should have gone with option 1. I know I'll be happy with this option when its setup and running, its only the initial setup frustration and cost as an issue. 3. Get a Walbro BKS1001 brushless pump. This is the fu*k it I'm already going PWM, might as well go full retard. This option just seems better in every way, with the only downside being cost. But I don't know much about this pump so I could be wrong. Happy to get everyone's thoughts before I go digging around in the fuel tank again.

Your ECU's engine protection should pick this up easily. Just recently my ECU alerted me to lower then usual fuel pressure caused by a failing car battery. I'd be absolutely blown away if the ECU couldn't tell that you only had half the pumps you should have lol.

@Darrel It's so tempting to say e85 is borderline magic. It cools the intake charge, so if you're flirting with the edge of the turbos compressor map it helps dramatically cool down the hot air the turbos are pumping. It is very resistant to detonation so you can crank the timing, I don't really want to say you won't be knock limited anymore.... but you probably wont be knock limited anymore lol. I wouldn't be surprised if you made 20% more power swapping to e85 (provided you have the fuel system to support them, bigger injectors maybe bigger pump etc).

@Darrel Can you get pump e85 where you are? If you want to max out those turbos, e85 + bigger modern injectors will be the easiest way to get you there.

Sounds reasonable to me. Do you know what your injector duty cycle is? I guess everyone has their own personal limit as to how high they want to flirt with 100% duty cycle, but who knows what your tuners limit is. Maybe they like to cap it at 80%? Now your injector CC to HP conversion has a 20% hair cut on it, then through drivetrain losses, yeah 500rwhp seems ok to me. If you plan to spend on your GTR, modern injectors and a modern ECU will go a long way!

Sorry I meant to say, Is that $3,500 landed or is that just the sticker price in Japan?

Hang on a second, is it possible to get a 25det neo from Japan landed, or is there shipping/duty on top of that?

Any chance you have access to a vacuum bleeder? (something like this) https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toledo-toledo-brake-bleeder-and-fluid-extractor-1-litre/540782.html?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwir2xBhC_ARIsAMTXk848QmzMiDD5_EO8X8AgI11x2F7mmv9Ty9hDU8PZPOcDBm2yNyZDVVsaAtHaEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds I've had great success with this bit of kit, it's never let me down and its bailed out a few mates that couldn't manually bleed a stuck air bubble out.

Can you describe in detail how you bled the system? There is a chance its still got air in the system somewhere, I'd want to 1000% rule that out first before swapping parts.

Sounds like a good excuse to use one of these lol https://injectordynamics.com/id-f750-fuel-filter/

You'd need to weld on an external gate to achieve that number though. I can't remember seeing anyone make 500hp at the wheels with the stock manifold / internally gated turbo.