Murray_Calavera

Yep, agreed. I thought 5 micron at 88% efficient was quite good. I don't know of a filter that does a better job, if I did I would have gotten that one instead lol

Closest I've seen is something like this - Which is printed by Mako Motorsport https://makomotorsport.com.au/collections/nissan/products/nissan-skyline-r32-dash-mount-custom

Am I the only one that thought 30 micron filter wasn't small enough? This is the efficiency chart of the filter I use, it filters down to 5 microns.

Just checking, is it the case that you have a Japanese wiring diagram? If so I might be able to help with translation.

What are your thoughts on going to a single turbo setup? You don't need to bolt on a huge turbo and you'll open up a lot more options this way.

The only problem is it won't stay stock and the cycle will repeat itself lol My genuine vote would be to keep the skyline and buy the M3 as well. Then every time you find yourself saying, hmm maybe just a set of coilovers for the M3... you can go drive the skyline and leave the M3 stock.

It starts getting truly crazy if you put an $$ hourly rate on the time you've spent working on the car. If my shitbox vanished into a blackhole, the saddest part for me would be all the time lost that I had poured into the car.

Something like this - https://www.sparesbox.com.au/part/aeroflow-fabricated-oil-front-sump-fits-rb20-rb25-rb30-af82-2017?gclid=CjwKCAjw__ihBhADEiwAXEazJl7T4zqfYyaNjJy6aOXwLw9Iz8T_u_lpNM2juRSK7qnB0FC2bhk3ShoCnQEQAvD_BwE Or you could send your stock one off to be modified by someone like Lewis Engines.

Sounds like you didn't install the missing brake shims/hardware.

Once they match up the rotors for you, just make a note of what car they come standard on to make life easier in future.

Hello again! Have you brought the rotors into a brake supply store in person? I would expect that the current rotors could be matched up pretty quickly if the staff at the store were able to play with them in person.

The curse of the jelly brake fluid strikes again lol. Glad it's sorted now though

Were measurements taken? You can't really eyeball a crank and say its in spec. I'd be interested to see what was recorded, you can compare it with the specs in the workshop manual that I've attached. I don't know what is local to you, but an engine dyno would do exactly what your describing. Up to you if you think it's worth the cost and time to run the engine up on a dyno before it's put in the car. It's also a nice way to break in a freshly built engine.

@MBS206 I've got the factory heat exchanger, oil temp sensor in my sandwich plate and water temp sensor in the factory location. Happy to log data if you like.

Thanks for posting this up, the work is very impressive! Do you mind saying what the total cost of the conversion was in the end?

Do you have the associated wiring on the back of your AC/heater climate control unit? Hopefully you do and you can trace the wires from there. I've also attached the R33 wiring diagram. R33_Wiring_Diagram.pdf

I didn't realise how many cops were in here!

Josh's Haltech 2500 samples the oil pressure sensor at 50hz, I wouldn't call that slow. The engine protection activation time will be set by Josh, so he can set it to whatever he thinks is appropriate. I 100% agree with the essence of what you are saying though, and I would advocate for both the accusump and engine protection, I just wanted to add some numbers to the 'sensors take time' bit.

@joshuaho96 Its getting to the point where buying your own dyno might be the cheaper option for you in the long run lol

It doesn't need an ECU and doesn't need to go in the engine bay.

Sure thing - It's hard to tell if this will be a problem for you. "occasional track use" means different things to different people. If your "occasional track use" means going to the track on cheap street tyres. You can probably guarantee that there won't be an issue. Your tyres won't let you pull enough G's in the corners to slosh the oil away from the pick up and your tyres won't allow you to use enough throttle to fill the head with oil. But if your "occasional track use" is 1 event a year, but on that event you fit a set full slick tyres and load them up properly, you could pop the motor on your first session of the day.

If you were said person and seriously considered engineering a modern scavenge pump into an ancient RB motor, wouldn't you just go dry sump instead?

It is very likely that the car already had a blown head gasket when you bought it, which is why the previous owner sold it. The symptoms you describe very much sound like a blown head gasket. The mechanic saying it's a blown head gasket sounds like it has a blown head gasket. If I had to guess I'd also say it has a blown head gasket.

Yep. The Taarks block deletes the factory oil warmer/cooler. The sandwich plate I linked attaches to the factory oil warmer/cool (where your oil filter is now) then the oil filter attaches to the sandwich plate. I run the sandwich plate option, I don't have any issues with access to the oil filter. The above kits are good if you want to relocate your oil filter.

You've been taking the car to a mechanic but they can't diagnose the overheating issue?