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Murray_Calavera

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Everything posted by Murray_Calavera

  1. Murray_Calavera
    I've seen brake fluid turn to a jelly like substance and then become really difficult to bleed. Have you tried removing the bleeder nipple completely and jamming the vacuum bleeder in the hole? Other thoughts include removing the ABS unit from the equation - https://au.gktech.com/stainless-steel-braided-teflon-lined-abs-delete-kit
  2. Murray_Calavera
    I haven't checked to see if these fit your 34gtt, these are just an example of what you'd use if you want to keep your factory cool/warmer. https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/oil-sandwich-plate-thermostatic.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwocShBhCOARIsAFVYq0hIlVu5UWwYaV7hFCYJPSO3kPickUhDLNGOwigYNyYZUgCw5kas5eYaAs6_EALw_wcB https://justjap.com/products/hpi-oil-filter-sandwich-plate-attachment-universal-m20-p1-5?currency=AUD
  3. Murray_Calavera
    Oh my bad. What I mean is, you can have an oil cooler and keep the factory oil cooler/warmer. The factory oil cooler/warmer will help bring your oil temps up after a cold start. The Taarks oil block deletes the factory cooler/warmer.
  4. Murray_Calavera
    Why do you want to get rid of your oil warmer/cooler in a street car?
  5. Murray_Calavera
    Well, if you've already got it then see how it goes for your use case. We can all pretty much confirm it's not as good as the stock fan, all we can hope now is that it is good enough for how you will personally use the car.
  6. Murray_Calavera
    Mine did that too. I replaced it with a non-cracked oem fan. Works well.
  7. Murray_Calavera
    I've got a thermostat in my sandwich plate and the factory oil cooler/warmer, my oil temps come up at pretty much the same rate as my water temps.
  8. Murray_Calavera
    Seems like you don't want to put the cooler in, that's fine. Turn your engine protection on, set the oil temp to what your comfortable with, when the car tells you it's party over, go back into the pits and let it cool down. If you find your not happy with the frequency of your rest breaks, install your oil cooler. As you extend your track time, you'll then run into your next overheating issue. If I had to guess it would be brakes/tyres overheating.... and the cycle repeats itself...
  9. Murray_Calavera
    It's really hard to judge if that quote is cheap, expensive or priced correctly. The cost of your harness will vary greatly depending on the quality of materials used, if it's completely sealed, the type of connectors used, etc. It's like asking if a quote for an engine build is cheap and giving none of the details of the parts used, machining required etc. Just a couple of example of what I'm talking about - This 18 gauge TXL wire. About $1 a metre - https://www.rapidcables.com.au/txl-automotive-primary-copper-wire This 18 gauge 44 spec Raycham wire. About $2 a metre - https://www.motorsportelectrics.com.au/shop-by-product/product/16-18-44-spec-raychem-wire-10-metre-minimum-each-colour 1 metre of 3/16" DR25 heat shrink. About $9 a metre - https://www.motorsportelectrics.com.au/shop-by-product/product/raychem-dr25-heatshrink 1 metre of 5mm Jaycar special heat shrink. About $2 a metre - https://www.jaycar.com.au/5-0mm-black-heatshrink-tubing/p/WH5533?pos=2&queryId=40024a8a7b0f399a645d96f628fe16cf&sort=relevance The cost of these consumables add up very quickly. What part of the harness was damaged/what needs repairing?
  10. Murray_Calavera
    Where does your ECU get the speed signal from?
  11. Murray_Calavera
    Sounds like $3.5k well spent.
  12. Murray_Calavera
    The OP said he is using Hawk HPS pads, this is Hawk's 'High Performance Street' pads which are essentially stock pads. The optimal temperature for these pads are 37 to 260 degrees. Hardly 'performance' but hey, what do I know about marketing lol.
  13. Murray_Calavera
    I've got experience with both diffs, I run the Nismo in my R33 which makes about 350kw, but I ran the Cusco in my swift. Very hard to make a direct comparison... different cars, FF vs FR etc etc.... What I would say is, you'll probably really like either diff. When I put the Cusco in my swift, I thought it was the best mod I had done to the car (making about 150kw at the time). When I put the Nismo in my R33, I thought it was the best mod I had done to the car lol. Both diff's have 'character' when driving around on the street, personally I like it, but if you're not a fan of the chatter it can be tuned out. This is a good how-to video for pulling some aggressiveness out of the diff for street use.
  14. Murray_Calavera
    Yep and it's the reverse for me lol. If I'm not at the bottom of the list, I'm very surprised. But the way I see it, literally no one cares how faster or slow I drive or where I place. But to me, the most important thing is that I drive home and that I had a good day.
  15. Murray_Calavera
    Touch wood, after nearly 20 years of track events, I've only ever been left stranded once due to a mechanical failure. That tow from Wakefield was around $600. So buying a tow car, trailer, paying for rego and insurance on both just so I can tow the car home in the event of a breakdown never really made financial sense to me. Plus I've never really had anywhere to put said tow rig and trailer. The downside is, I drive with a lot of mechanical sympathy for the car. So I'll be staged at the drags and a part of me really wants to launch the car as hard as I can... but I never do. Or I'll be at a drift event and the situation really calls for a big clutch kick.... but I'll just let the car straighten and next time out I'll just try and use a bit more weight transfer and a little hand brake. One day I'll adopt the "fkn just send it" mindset and I'm thinking this might be a solution for me - https://www.shannons.com.au/roadside-assist/overview The roadside assist is very well priced and you get unlimited tows home from the track (within 100km of the track).
  16. Murray_Calavera
    If the clips cannot be installed, I'd say the most likely issues are either, incorrect installation or a build up of brake dust which is reducing clearances. Brakes, as I've been saying this whole time, squeal when you don't install the required shims (which also includes all of the other brake hardware, clips, springs, etc). Look at all of the millions of factory cars driving around and none of them have squealing brakes. Our skylines are no different. Correctly install all of the factory brake shims and hardware and then report back if they are still squealing.
  17. Murray_Calavera
    So you didn't put the clips in?
  18. Murray_Calavera
    I have a feeling you are missing some of the brake hardware. Yes you might have shims and the retaining spring, but there is still more hardware. Have a look at the link below. See those clips, without them it could be squeal city. Are your shims genuine? https://www.efisolutions.com.au/brake-caliper-shim-hardware-kit-front-r32-z32 How about your rear brakes, do they have all the required shims/hardware? https://www.efisolutions.com.au/brake-caliper-shim-hardware-kit-rear-r32-r33-z32 Have a look at the parts diagram in each of the links, make sure you have everything. Have you bled the brakes?
  19. Murray_Calavera
    I have no idea what they charge, but if it's cost effective, maybe send some brake fluid off for testing? https://www.savantlab.com/applications/brake-fluid-testing/ If it's reasonably priced, might be worth the peace of mind.
  20. Murray_Calavera
    Using 2 different coloured brake fluids makes it very easy to do a complete flush as well. Say the proper fluid you want to run is yellow. Start with a cheap yellow DOT 3/4, then flush with a cheap blue DOT 3/4 and then finally use the brake fluid you want to actually run, keep flushing until the blue is gone.
  21. Murray_Calavera
    Get it welded up by a decent welder. Check it for straightness after it's done.
  22. Murray_Calavera
    Yeah, I didn't really think about my example for more then a few seconds before typing it out lol. It was meant to be a visual aid, probably should have gone with something like, "picture all the skyline's at the track that empty 2L of oil into their catch can after each session".
  23. Murray_Calavera
    Where does your PCV valve live and what does the P stand for?
  24. Murray_Calavera
    Have a think about what you'll do if it's case that as you chase the rust back with the wire wheel, you end up with a hole. Hopefully the rust isn't that bad, but better to have a plan in place for if you find yourself in that situation.
  25. Murray_Calavera
    If I had to guess, I'd say you are missing some/all of the factory brake shims. In addition to the above - when was the last time you bled the brakes? It could be as simple as your fluid has turned to jelly on left side causing them not to work.
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