Murray_Calavera

I'm a little bit confused, what state do you live in/where will the Skyline be registered? If the car is registered in NSW, you don't need a QLD mod plate. I found Fink Engineering very good to deal with. The legislation is interpreted by the engineer, I found their interpretation was very similar to my interpretation. This made the process of working with them very smooth sailing. This is a good example of my views and an engineers views not lining up. I once spoke with an engineer in NSW that wanted me to have the car engineered after I removed the rear seat and rear seatbelts. He was more then a little annoyed that all I did was have the car blue slipped and registered as a 2 seater. He thought that was a gross inadequacy after the 'substantial' modifications I had made and the RMS should not have accepted the blue slip without the vehicle being engineered. I've also spoken with engineers that charge $250 per hour and 'round up' to the nearest 15 minute block when billing. So if I needed to very quickly speak to them over the phone, that will be $60 thanks. No issues like that with Fink.

I've gone through the engineering process in NSW and the mod plate process in QLD. Having one or the other when transferring registration between states will not help you. You'll still need to go through that states registration process. From my experience, getting a car certified in NSW is a lot more involved/difficult/costly in comparison to getting a mod plate in QLD. Unfortunately the guy who engineered my swift has long retired, the only decent engineer I know of now in NSW is FINK Engineering. I was going to get the skyline engineered there but ended up moving to QLD before it was done. Let me know if you've got any specific questions about the NSW engineering process.

I'm surprised you think it looks ugly, I think it looks great. I'm not sure if this would effect how well it works, but painting it black might help it blend in with the background if that's what you'd prefer.

Haltech make it really easy to do with one of these boxes - https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-038009-dc-motor-driver-dcmd/ Not recommending it for this circumstance, but it is a sexy piece of kit.

I don't have experience with their car cover, but I have their floor mats - it's really nice. If the cover is as at the same level of quality as their mats, it sounds like a good thing.

Nice! Yep, fingers crossed.

When is the next track day?

https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php?id_product=3144&rewrite=nissan-skyline-r33-s2-air-con-condenser&controller=product

Don't know if it bothers you or not, but as soon as you remove an air bag the car is no longer street legal.

The Link G4 can read the fuel pressure sensor provided you have the spare input for it. Yep, you can T in between the rail and fuel filter for the sensor. For your wideband O2 sensor, one sensor is fine and you can install it in front of the cat. You'll need to get a bug welded on for where you want to locate it. Where the factory O2 sensors are, you can leave the factory sensors there. I wouldn't install a wideband sensor so close to the turbos.

That's bizarre, they have HKS stuff on their site =/ Did you ask GCG/Turbosmart if they have a spring of the size you require? If you're not having luck over the phone, you might have to visit your local Turbosmart dealer in person and bring the gate/spring with you to size up. People tend to be more helpful in person.

So, first thought is. Contact someone who sells HKS stuff, for example - www.carmodsaustralia.com.au They import stuff from Japan regularly and obviously can get HKS parts. They can probably help you out. Next thought is speak with a company that deals with turbo stuff as their core business. There might be some cross over with say a turbosmart wastegate spring and your HKS one - gcg.com.au comes to mind as such a company. Last resort, your going to have to learn Japanese, fluently. Fly to Japan and visit the HKS headquarters and beg for a wastegate spring. They might take pity on you and supply you with a spring.

Does anyone feel like pulling their flex sensor out to see what happens? lol

Ah ok. I was thinking that if the sensor was starved of fuel, it would not send a value to the ECU. So the ECU would just keep using the last known value. But what you are saying is, if the sensor was for example, just plugged in to the ECU with no fuel flowing through it at all, it would still function as expected and send a value to the ECU for 0% ethanol?

Is anything going to happen if the flex sensor isn't sampling fuel for a period of time? I mean the e content of the fuel is the e content, after a few minutes of driving, the mixture never changes. I could only ever see this being an issue after filling up the tank and before the current mixture was established. Is there something I'm missing?

The real challenge is, what does that car even sound like in person? Who knows. Its a video, its a very simple process to just go.... yeahh and another couple of db over the 0 to 40 hz range.... yep perfect. I don't know where you're located, but I'd advise to go to car meets with people that have the same car/engine as you. Have a listen to their setup and go from there.

I don't know if it's just me but a bunch of the photos aren't loading =/

What coil packs are you using?

All of my control arms/traction rod are stock in the rear at the moment. Does the factory setup toe out much on power?

Yep, I'm not surprised. It's good advice. Some of the really big HP drift cars run up to 10mm toe in chasing outright grip in the rear.

Do you have everything solid mounted/rose joined in the rear? My zero toe might be a lot more toe out, then your zero toe. I've still got a lot of rubber bushes to delete in the rear.

Hmm I think I really need to start running some amount of toe in. I run zero toe in the rear, because exciting, but it really doesn't help for performance lol.

I think I'm going to need a detailed breakdown of your suspension components, setup and alignment lol. I can't even put down 300kw on the street in 2nd. Say I'm cruising around 1500 rpm, then floor it in 2nd, around 5500ish rpm it will break loose. I wonder how much of that comes down to the shape of the power delivery from the journal bearing turbo. Maybe if I went with the ball bearing centre, it would have had a more gentle power delivery.... I dunno.

100% agree with this. A proper diff would be at the top of my list of priority mods.

CRS is about 50% more expensive then NS2R in identical sizes, check out the links I put up. Yeah I've been looking for sur4g for a while now, can never find any place that has them in stock. Also been looking for Valino and Zeknova tyres, again no one has stock for what I want. I would run a square setup if I could get the same size to fit the front. Can't see that ever happening without cutting up the front guards and fitting flares, but I'm really not keen to do that. Yep. I'll check out that tyre shop, see how we go with pricing.