Murray_Calavera

Can you think of a scenario where twins out perform a modern single?

Well if the motor is built then it's built. There are many good reasons for higher compression ratio though, more power at all rpm, increased turbo spool, better off boost performance, more low end torque.... I could keep thinking of ways to say "the engine will perform better, everywhere" but you get the idea.

I'll keep it simple, the answer is no.

This would be the cheapest way to paint it. Blend the colour over the damage and clear over the red highlighted area. What you would do is back-mask using that body line. Here is a good example video of the technique.

If your a bit worried about working on the BMW straight up, you could go to your local wreckers and pick up a cheap panel and use it to practice on first. Once you're happy with the results you can achieve on the practice panel, you could move over to working on your car.

Ohh it's the rear quarter I was thinking it was a front guard.... Can you upload another photo showing the entire panel? What we need are natural body lines/panel gaps where you can stop spraying the clear. Ideally a panel gap. This is because blending the clear coat is not an option. I'll post an example photo. Say the damage is the red X, then I would colour over the damage and re-clear the entire area in yellow using the body lines to hide the blend point. If I'm spraying 2K, I wear a respirator, paint suit and gloves. A disposable paint suit is only around $30 so I don't see any reason not to use one. I have a feeling your air compressor might not be up to the task, you really want something at least this size to feed a spray gun - https://sydneytools.com.au/product/chicago-hush150-silenced-150l-air-compressor

If you're going to do the repair, there isn't any reason why you can't get it looking pretty much factory. In no particular order - * Get a good colour match paint. I've had really good experiences with VG Auto Paints: Automotive Paint Supplies. * Use a proper 2K clear (it will have a button on the bottom of the can to release the hardener) and good quality primer. * Take the time required to prep/repair the damage. Ensure the filler is 1000% perfect and smooth before painting, eg if the 2 part filler is giving you tiny pin holes when it cures, use a single step filler to fill the pin holes. You can't rush or cheat out this step, it takes as long as it takes. * Don't try and blend the clear coat. You could blend the colour, but you might as well use the entire can and colour and clear the entire panel. The 2K clear will only last a few days once activated anyways so at least it will all get used. * Have a good respirator. 2K paint isn't friendly. * You'll probably have a pretty orange peel y result using rattle cans. Nothing 1000 / 2000 grit sand paper and cutting / buffing compound can't fix. It really isn't that much more effort to get the factory result, you're already in there doing the repair, might as well make it perfect.

I have a Christmas gift for you. R33_Wiring_Diagram.pdf

Very normal. Were you having any issues with how the car drives that made you think this was the cause of the issue?

If you try hard enough on the track over enough years, you can crack the subframe too lol

I just wanted to check that you know about submarining in the event of a collision while wearing a 4 point harness. I'm not saying don't do it, just that if you choose to do it, at least have it be an informed decision.

Is there something in particular you are wanting help with? The only question I can see in your post is, has anyone used a raceworks catch can, but catch cans all pretty much work the same way and as RB's gunna RB, chances are we all have some form of catch can lol.

You can 100% do this with the IC7. So things like water temp, you can setup an alarm / warning to trigger whenever you like. Then while racing, you can hit a button on the IC7 and clear the warning. As for your engine protection, you can set the values higher then your initial dash warnings.

What was the car doing previously that needed a replacement fuel pump?

Any chance you can borrow an ignitor from a running car?

My money is still on faulty coil packs. If I was in your shoes, I'd throw in a set of brand new coil packs. Either Splitfire or OEM.

What type of coil packs are you using now and are they brand new?

Hmm in that case, maybe its worth trying a brand new one for science? If it lasts 3 times as long as your previous ones it might be worth it?

Yep, I went 2nd hand for that reason too.

Hmm I have a feeling this post might make a few people angry but here goes... I think it's understood that at the power level you're at, there is no warranty. The build is based on trust, you trust the machinist/engine builder/mechanics/tuner have all done their job properly and if something went wrong, sometimes shit just happens at that power level. Would you feel any different if CRD or Maatouks had done all the work and this still happened to you? If you think I'm crazy look at it this way. 1000HP out of an RB, that motor has a life expectancy that can be measured in hours (what I mean is, if you go to the track and properly use your 1000HP. Your only going to get X hours of 1000HP out of it before it will need to be pulled down). How do you put a warranty on that? It's a tricky spot your in. If you still trust the people working on your car, I'd take it back to them to resolve the issue. Hopefully you have a relationship with the people working there and your not 'just some random customer' and they actually want to help you and sort the car out. If you don't have a relationship with the people working on your car, I'd find a workshop that I was happy to form that relationship with. Or, I'd take over and start doing all of the work on the car myself.

Yeah you could go 'too big' with injectors, but you won't run into those issues with 1000cc injectors. They will idle and drive like factory. Is there any reason you don't want to use a Bosch EV14 injector? They aren't expensive and are proven to be a good thing.

Do you already have the injectors? 750cc injectors or 1000cc injectors will costs around the same money and both will be easy to tune. Why not pick up the 1000cc injectors to start with and save yourself the time and hassle in the future?

I run my pump full throttle all the time, 3 years so far so good.

Good excuse for a IC7 dash or similar?

Yep, that's my 33psi full vacuum idle. I had to by a clamp to do your test, so it's a brand new one of these lol https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-clamp-meter---digital/343253.html