Murray_Calavera

Just a FYI. The 044 is indeed gone mate. https://www.bosch-motorsport-shop.com.au/blog/tech-product-overviews/the-044-is-dead-long-live-the-bosch-motorsport-200/#:~:text=After 28 years of setting,number%3A 0 580 254 044.

Post your ESP map. Log every channel and go for a drive. Post your data log.

Did you recently purchase that Bosch 044? That fuel pump was released about 30 years ago and has been discontinued by Bosch... Even if it isn't a fake, there is no reason to use this pump over a modern fuel pump. If a pump is advertised as "supporting 600HP" that does not guarantee that it will indeed support 600HP on your build. Also, certainly the HP rating of the pump is at the motor and not at the wheels. There is a huge difference in the fuel pump requirement between a big NA V8 on pump 98 making 600HP and a small 4 cylinder turbo on e85 running 40+psi boost making 600HP. In the defence of your 044, maybe it's 28 years old and has finally worn out lol. In any case replace the pump with something modern. I'd recommend starting with a Walbro 525 and going from there. You can always throw in a twin hanger and get a second one if need be later down the track. For $200 you can replace your dinosaur fuel pump and most likely resolve your issue. I don't understand why you are reluctant to do so.

I really want to know if any of these are selling for the asking price

Seeing as you've had to ask the question, it won't be any type of 'repair it yourself' answer. I would start visiting workshops that focus on classic vehicle restorations/coach building/body building. I would be surprised if your average panel beating workshop would be interested in making a repair like this and even if they were, personally I wouldn't trust that them not to take shortcuts in their quest of maximising profits. An example of the type of workshop I'm talking about is something like this - https://www.automotivecraftsmen.com.au/

Yep, I agree with this. It's probably worth stating it as my previous post makes it seem like I believe the opposite. So with my first motor, 100% stock, I got about 5 years out of it with street and track duties. I knew it wouldn't hold together forever with track use. The plan always was, when the motor gives up, I'll quickly drop in another stock motor and rebuild the first one. Hopefully I'll have another 5 years now to finish my build lol. When that motor gives up I'll have a built motor ready to go. The cycle will repeat again, built motor in, I'll start building the 2nd stock motor up and have a spare built motor ready to go.

What upgrades can you do? Heaps. Built motor (high comp pistons, rods, cams, etc), intake, exhaust, entire fuel system upgrade, ECU and tune it for e85. You'll probably want a lightened flywheel, might as well refresh the clutch while you're there... Once you've done all that and spent the good part of $30,000 I'd be very surprised if it was any faster then a completely stock RB25DET. If you want to swap parts from the RB25, you'll find the entire RB25DET swaps over very well.

Are you talking about engine only or all the parts required to make 350kw? If you're talking engine only, my unopened engine makes that power easily on e85. So "required" parts, technically none? lol But yeah if you want a list of everything required to make that power, as the others have said, best to do a search as there are a million ways to achieve that power level.

You don't have to swap the motor, just add one or more of these - Turbo. Spray. Supercharger. Oh, I see this is in the naturally aspirated performance forum... hmmm. Keep the motor, turn the body into this -

Surely a M1 Motec can control your auto.

This setup will work and be an improvement over the factory speed sensor (quicker to respond and more accurate). https://shop.ostdyno.com/shop/shop/nissan-skyline/engine-management/r32-gtr-auxiliary-speed-sensor-kit/ If you want a simple plug and play option, this will work too. https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-011310-gps-speed-input-module/

Sure. I'm an anybody. I've included some handy colour coded arrows to assist with your enquiry. Red = engine body earth cable Yellow = alternator ground wire. In the pictures you can see that the engine body earth cable and alternator ground wire both connect at the same point, they are stacked. The same way the wiring diagram shows that they are stacked. Now when looking at the pictures, don't be distracted by the fuel filter. It is fkn sexy, but focus on the arrows and the ground wire. Also the Kryptalon fuel lines are pretty sexy too, don't be distracted by that either. If you need any more pictures of my engine by, you can hit up my onlyfans account.

Sounds like a plan. Hopefully there aren't any issues getting your mates spare time. I had a car sitting in a workshop for over 5 years that was meant to happen between jobs at mates rates... it's now been sold for parts

lol that was my first thought too.

The money your spending on your mechanic to build one motor, you could use on educational material (say https://www.hpacademy.com/courses/learn-how-to-build-engines/) and tools to build X motors in the future. I don't think you should be worried about 'blowing up' a motor from incorrect assembly. If everything is going well during assembly, turns over perfectly by hand, what is it that you are worried about? I'm not saying you won't run into speed bumps along the way, but they should be apparent at the time and then you can address them as you encounter them. The blowing up part is usually reserved for tuning issues lol. Speaking of which, are you going to tune it yourself?

Put it back together yourself

Are you doing the engine build yourself? The cost to fit a crank collar is nothing in the grand scheme of things.

If that's what the budget is, I'd think about not spending $ on cams and the inlet manifold, and instead spend the money on a Nitto oil pump and bigger/baffled sump.

Sounds like she is ready for her first motorsport event now! One of the big surprises I had moving to QLD, turns out you can start driving khanacross from 14 years old. If you're up this way, it's good to know that something like this exists. https://skidcontrol.com.au/product/lakeside-khanacross-day-6-november-2022/

Did you log any data? How was your oil pressure?

Did you not just say you traced the leak back to the front turbo? I don't understand what your question is.

This is probably not going to be overly helpful, but if you feel keen for a drive out into the bush, there are heaps of places out west where this could be done. When I say west, picture Bourke or Cobar. If that sounds like a fun adventure, feel free to send me a PM for details.

I don't think there is any mention of what model of skyline it is or what engine is in it?

I hope there aren't any issues with me posting this here. r34workshopmanualjap.pdf

So pretty... so expensive...