Murray_Calavera

Would you consider remaking that section of harness with Tefzel wire? Could even use high temp fiberglass sheathing for added sexiness.

There isn't anything fundamentally wrong with the HKS cooler, the reason people shy away from it is the small core size. But at the end of the day, the size of the core you need will depend on how you use the car. If you log your oil temps on track and your oil cooler isn't keeping up, go to a bigger core/better ducting to the core.

"Hybrid turbo" isn't enough information for anyone to help you regarding its required oil supply volume/pressure. Best to speak to whoever you bought the "hybrid turbo" from and ask them what it requires. To answer your other questions - Your RB25DE didn't come with a turbo, so it didn't have an oil feed restrictor for the turbo that wasn't there. No one knows what size restrictor your "Hybrid turbo" requires. For all we know it's a journal bearing turbo and doesn't even need one at all. Correct, coolant and oil drains do not have restrictors in them.

Copy paste from the ECU description - This table allows for the fuel injection timing for Injector # to be corrected. The correction is a percentage adjustment on the overall fuel timing value.

This is from the Haltech Pro Plugin base map. As Duncan was saying about the #6 cylinder, hopefully this can help quantify it with some numbers. Haltech's individual cylinder trim start adding fuel from cylinder #4 onwards.

Sounds like your heart is set on this so my advice will be a little different from everyone else's advice. If I was in your shoes I would do this - 1. Grab a plex knock monitor. Good timing, they just released V3. Even if there are zero issues with the factory sensors and wiring, you still can't verify what the ECU is telling you without actually listening to what is going on. The plex knock monitor will come with sensors, wiring and give you the ability to see and hear what is actually happening. I can't see you doing this and not encountering detonation, best to have every chance of saving the motor by stopping before it is too late. 2. Grab your water injection kit and go nuts! Play around and enjoy the tuning experience, you are going to be tuning this yourself right? As soon as you've satisfied your curiosity, remove the entire water injection kit... 3. Install a flex sensor and go E85, once this is in you'll see how much better it is and you won't go back. I had a similar thing with wanting to try Nismo 740 cc side feed injectors. I knew they were going to be bad, but I really really wanted the experience of seeing what they were like to tune with. Bad? How bad? I had to know! lol I'm really happy I had the experience of playing with the Nismo injectors. Sometimes its not about doing the most logical thing or financially sensible thing, I say have fun and enjoy the process

What turbo and how much boost are you thinking of running when you try this? And do you have something like a plex knock monitor so you can accurately see and hear the detonation that is invariably coming your way?

Ok cool, I think we are on the same page. Just by chance, at the moment I've currently got all transient throttle enrichment turned off in my R33. There has been zero change to the cars driving behaviour. The only reminder that I have that AE is turned off, is on tip in, for about 0.1 seconds my mixture leans out and it's not even much of a lean out, we are talking like 14.7 to 16.5ish. Personally I only really care about performance and how the car drives. If there is zero discernible change in driving behaviour or performance, I really don't have a lot of interest in spending time / money in that area. Totally cool for you to want to hit whatever numbers you want to hit in your logged data though, horses for courses and all that.

Can you expand on 'improve transient response'? When you say this, I have a feeling I'm not picturing the same thing you are. Could you explain from a driving experience, what it is the car is doing that you don't like and what you are hoping the car will do after it has had it's 'transient response' improved?

I wasn't going mention this because I'm not trying to start internet arguments, but in the spirit of keeping SAU as a source of truth - This isn't really what happens, in the scenario of a large change in throttle opening, the change in pressure causes the fuel to be forced onto the fuel film on the port wall causing the fuel film to grow momentarily. This causes the car to momentarily lean out. This is why transient throttle enrichment exists to inject extra fuel so the car doesn't lean out on tip in. Single or split spray pattern doesn't matter because it's the pressure change that is forcing the fuel onto the port wall/fuel film. If your curious about it, you can look at Motec M1 training material as that series of ECU allow for fuel film modelling.

I find it strange that people get so caught up in these concepts. When we think about the real world drivability and performance of the car, are you trying to say that cars with single cone spray patterns do not atomise their fuel well and have drivability issues? Or are we trying to say something like, single cone spray pattern injectors are 99.1% perfect and by going to split spray it's improved to 99.2%? (numbers made up to express an idea, not to put a value on how effective either setup is) Other things to think about, OEM's care a lot about emissions etc, yet how many cars end up with split spray injectors from the factory? Thinking about the other extreme side of things, how many big power 1000kw+ cars use a split spray injector? If there was performance to be gained here, why isn't the aftermarket developing large motorsport split spray injectors?

You realise that the majority of the time the injector is firing, it's spraying onto the back of a closed valve right? Are you trying to improve your emissions at idle? I can guarantee that your transient response will not be improved by using a spilt spray injector.

Hmm ok. Really seems like you've dreamed up a bunch of problems that don't exist so that you have something to solve. When you look around, see every other skyline running perfectly, see that they don't have split spray injectors and don't have baby sized brushless fuel pumps.... How much "more perfect" will your car be?

(I'm guessing you are talking about the DeatchWerks DW440, I couldn't find any other brushless 440 lph pumps) I'm also curious why you would want to fit a DeatchWerks DW440 440lph Brushless Fuel Pump, that flows less then a Walbro 525LPH and has extra wiring complexity, costs about 5 times as much, and knowing DeatchWerks, it doesn't have an internal check valve as it doesn't state that it has one. On the plus side though, DeatchWerks has gone to the effort to put a retainer clip on for the fuel strainer, so that's nice.

I was on semi slicks, nothing crazy, but spirited street driving. With only 5 litres in the tank I was very impressed that there was zero surge. I'm not saying that this is the solution to all fuel issues for the track, more so that all the hours of frustration with the bore scope and making tiny adjustments to the angle of the bracket over and over again really felt like it payed off. Where the stock bracket mounts, having the fuel pump sit halfway down in the tank, this setup is a vast improvement over that. It will probably be a couple of months before I can get on track, but next time I do I'll log fuel pressure and run the tank down and see when fuel surge starts to be an issue.

Your final setup with the radium stuff in

Still post pictures though, I'd like to see the setup

Yep. Dyno before and after, done at a place that DIDNT sell you the ECU chip/tweak/pluginmagicbox. Or 1/4 mile time slips before and after. The dragstrip never lies.

I run radium everything, rail, reg, 2 x fuel pulse dampers in the rail... I can confirm the quality is on point!

Ok this is the final, final update (hopefully). So as I had a V1 Haltech IC7, my internal pullup resistor built into the dash for AVI 4 was only 1,000 Ohm. Using this resistor, I had a working voltage range of 0 volts full to 0.0X empty (X as the value fluctuates too much). Haltech updated their V2 IC7 to use a 240 Ohm resistor, the closest I could get was 220 Ohm so I used that. This gave me a working voltage range of 0 volts full to 1.6 volts empty. A huge improvement and I could have left it like this. I thought that going to a 100 Ohm resistor might double my voltage range to about 0 - 3 V, so I gave that a shot. It did improve it again, 0 volts full to 2.5 volts empty with the 100 Ohm resistor. I'm happy with this setup, the voltages are quite stable at this resolution. And my dash communication extension cable came in so I've got that mounted on the dash now

So on my previous attempt to drain the tank, I must have had those 9 litres in the other saddle tank. Turns out if the car is driven normally and the venturi is working as intended, this setup can run the car empty. I was trying to run the car low to calibrate my fuel level gauge and in the end ran the tank down to 5 litres remaining. I was driving around relatively quickly and got zero fuel surge. So in the end I am thoroughly impressed with how well this setup works. I can't believe that it's possible to have 5 litres in the tank and not experience any fuel surge!

You might be interested in having a look at these - https://rennstand.com/ https://jackpointjackstands.com/

This would look fantastic in there https://www.peracing.com.au/products/bosch-motorsport-abs-m5-kit-clubsport

I'd watch a couple of youtube videos of people bending the pinch welds back. It won't be perfect so at least you'll have an idea about what level of repair you can expect and what tooling is involved.

Just driving around town normally, which involves being on boost as often as possible without driving like a dick, I get around 10L/100KM on 98. I'm running a Haltech pro plug in, ID1050X injectors, 60mm turbo. Fuel map is what you'd expect to find with one difference, the very very low load areas (think like 1% or 2% open throttle) I run those parts of the map quite lean, around 16AFR. Oh and the idle is set to about 600 rpm. To answer your question, about 30% saved on fuel?