Murray_Calavera

Best sounding? Serious speakers? Seeing as no budget was mentioned, have a look at these - https://focalaustralia.com.au/product/ultima-3-way-components/ Don't forget the amps to drive them!

From the Nankang website - Optimum operating window 71-104 degrees celsius Optimum camber settings between -1.0 to -3.0 degrees HOT Pressure settings <800kg 23 - 27.5psi 800-1000kg 24 - 32psi 1,000-1,400kg 27.5 - 37psi 1,400kg> 34 - 42psi If you are having handling issues, please see the table below which may resolve your issue, remember to do this in small increments at a time To reduce Over steer Reduce rear pressures or increase front pressures To increase Over steer Increase rear pressures or reduce front pressures To reduce Under steer Reduce front pressures or increase rear pressures To increase Under steer Increase front pressures or reduce rear pressures

No, the only thing stolen was the car. There are many different ways to have a car transferred into your name WITHOUT using the rego papers your talking about. Obviously I'm not going to mention how it is done, I don't need this to be some Fraud 101 guide. What I am saying is, everything can look on paper to be perfect, but really it isn't. Trust your instincts and use common sense.

No, the paperwork is real. In my scenario, all of the paperwork was real. What I'm saying is this: Car is towed away/stolen. Real paperwork gets lodged, title of car is transferred into thiefs name. Thief sells car, provides real paperwork to the buyer. Buyer lodges real paperwork transferring the car into their name. Previous owner of the car discovers their car has been stolen. Now there are 2 "owners" for the same car.

Oh I forgot to add, I'm not trying to scare you Silviaz. Everything you said sounds like a good plan. Once you have done all of that, trust your instincts. If something feels wrong, don't be scared to walk away and find another car. Just having a car in your name with the associated paperwork doesn't legally mean the ownership is 100% yours and cannot be disputed.

I'm going to give you the worst case, super duper rare, but still happens scenario. The car is parked up long term, maybe the owner is overseas then got stuck in covid isolation issues. In any case, the car has been sitting for months.... Someone notices the sitting car and casually tows it away to their mate who owns a car yard. The car yard processes paperwork and poof! The person who stole the car is now the "owner" on paper. They now have registration paperwork that is in their name and by all accounts is the same as everyone else's legitimate paperwork... Our new friend sells the car ASAP to someone who has no idea the car was previously stolen. I mean, they have rego paperwork in their name, can prove their ID at the time of the sale, everything looks good right? Then our friend finally manages to get back into Australia... hang on, where's my car? And now, the car has 2 legal owners. 2 people have paid for the car and both believe they are the owner. Welcome to local court to dispute the ownership. Please file all paperwork, see below. https://www.localcourt.nsw.gov.au/content/dam/dcj/ctsd/localcourt/documents/practice-notes/25622pdfAnnexure_D_-_Pre-trial_Review_Sheet.pdf

Is there any reason you can't just pick up a factory one from a wrecker?

What do you think each one of these things do to the car so that it makes the claimed power?

Well I'm excited! https://outsidergarage.com/products/complete-rb-r32-dbw-adapter-kits?variant=40968923971745 Complete RB DBW Adapter Kits for OEM Nissan RB20/RB25 (coming soon) Nice!

Hey all I'm about to mount up an ID750 fuel filter on the offside strut tower, if you can picture the stock power steering reservoir bracket, it will be like a mirror image of that with the fuel filter where the reservoir is. I expect the way it will be mounted would interfere with most forward facing plenums. As I will want an e-throttle setup in future, does anyone know of anyone running DBW on the stock RB25 intake manifold? I've seen plenty of adaptors but they all say they suit forward facing plenums only. Other then the adapter, would there be any other speed bumps with running DBW on the stock manifold?

I'm not surprised given how old these ECU's are. My Haltech pro plug in can't even do knock control. Sure its listed in the spec sheet and when you go in the software you'll find it, but it's garbage. It wasn't until the Elite ECU's that the knock control actually worked as intended (provided you also had knock ears to calibrate/verify what you were seeing in the ECU data).

What is your reason for getting a set of coilovers? If your reason was for sure 100%, "I just want to lower the car" and you don't care about, ride quality, performance on road, performance on track, etc. Yes, you could go with cheap China coilovers, they will indeed lower the car. If I was strapped for cash and wanted to lower my car, I would get custom king springs with the spring rate and drop that I want. Fit the springs yourself and keep saving up the $. Then I'd buy a set of good Koni shocks and take everything to a good suspension place that has a shock dyno. They can valve the Koni shocks to match the spring rates. When I was a young lad I did this exact process with my turbo swift, I found that custom king springs cost the exact same price as of the shelf stuff and getting the Koni's revalved was about $80 per shock. This might have been about 15 years ago now but surely it can't have gotten much more expensive then that.

They look really interesting. It's a real shame there is only one size in 17" I feel the world forcing me to get 18" wheels. It's crazy that these days some tyres smallest size is 19".

I've got a 2013 Impreza so not 100% sure if this will help you out. I've attached the workshop manual for my Impreza here. I used a cheapy OBD2 bluetooth scanner and a phone app to check the gearbox oil temp the last time I changed the oil.

I have a magic rock that keeps away tigers. I am prepared to sell you the magic rock for the bargain price of $2,000.

Aramith, unfortunately you're going to have to take our word on this. You have a large knowledge gap with regards to how engines and ECU's work. The thing on Ebay is 100% a scam. It does not do what it claims to do. The power increases your claiming with an ECU/tune alone are not possible. The power figures on a dyno can easily be manipulated by the operator, they could take your money and give you a dyno printout with that increased power figure showing. Only problem is that again, it's a scam. If you are keen to learn about how all of these things actually work, there are heaps of us here that can point you in the right direction of where you can go to learn about these things.

Yep they caught my eye too but the price surprised me. I got quoted $435 for CRS in 275/35R17, seemed too expensive to take the chance on.

So many of his dreams.... shattered in an instant.

A lot of good food for thought here. I've got Nankang NS2R (120TW) on my track rims at the moment and I need to replace my street tyres soon. The RS4 look really interesting as a street tyre option but they need to perform double duty as my drift tyres too. Would there be any reason why they wouldn't be a good drift tyre? The Zestino Gredge 07R in 240TW as a street/drift tyre have also caught my attention.

Are you talking street or track? I can't picture treating a corner like a straight on the track and I can't picture a tyre lasting 10,000km on the track lol.

I wanted to get some thoughts on what the appeal is of the 200 treadwear tyres. Tyres like AD08R/AD09, Pilot Sport Cup 2, RE-71RS, etc etc There seems to be so many people in love with their preferred 200 treadwear tyre, but I don't really understand why. They seem so expensive to me when compared to either a proper R compound tyre for the track or a ultra high performance for the street (tyres like Pilot Sport 5). I don't understand why someone wouldn't buy a 2nd set of wheels, run a street legal semi slick for the track, which is cheaper then a 200 treadwear tyre while out performing it. Then run a tyre like a Pilot Sport 4/5 for the street, which are vastly cheaper, still perform adequately and will last many more KM's. The only logical reason I see to run a 200 treadwear tyre is because the class your driving in won't allow for a softer tyre to be run. I'd really love to hear from anyone that has experience driving on these tyres as well as experience with R compound tyres.

If you have room at home/garage, my vote would be to buy a long motor known to be in good condition. Put some upgraded studs and head gasket in it and drop that motor in to get you up and running again quickly. Then with the stuffed motor, pull it down and slowly rebuild it at home yourself. Plenty of resources available these days so that any motivated person would be able to learn to build a motor. Will work out cheaper then paying someone to build you a forged motor, you'll end up with a good condition spare motor and you'll develop the skills you'll need to keep the skyline running long term.

Also be good to really nail down your goals with the car. Your power target has already bumped up another 100hp over your last post lol.

My Japanese is getting pretty rusty but here is my 2c. Both messages are notifications, one is for the oil filter (オイルフィルタ) the other is for the engine oil (エンジンオイル) The messages talk about the settings for the notification interval. It asks you to push the information switch, choose the maintenance information and select settings... or something like that.

If tuned well it won't need to be forged at that power level. E85 makes that power pretty easy these days. Upgraded head studs and gasket would be good to do. Strong chances of you lifting the head otherwise.