Murray_Calavera

Where did you source that little beauty?

This might be the way you can keep your .6 motor https://bulletraceengineering.com.au/shop/rb30sx/ Now it's 3.6 litre xD

There will be a heap of mechanics that have tooling to make up hard brake lines. I would bet that any workshop that specialises in older cars, say restoring old MG's, would have tooling to make up hard lines. It should be cheap and easy to get something made up for you. Having said that, I don't know anyone that has bothered to make up hard lines when there are braided lines readily available that do the same thing.

https://au.gktech.com/products/brakes/brake-lines/r32-gts-t-braided-brake-line-set Should do the trick

I'll just leave this here

The dry sump tank can be install in the engine bay, this might be some inspiration for you - https://jordanleist.com/2018/06/15/the-power-and-the-passion-an-1181rwhp-nissan-r32-gtr/

I'd love to see photos once that's done

Looks really good, do you mind putting up some photos of how it was mounted?

Number 8 sounds pretty sexy, do you know if it can start/stop logging to PC or does it only start/stop logging to onboard memory?

To be fair, I went looking for a rebuild kit for the RB25 clutch master cylinder... Couldn't find anyone that had one. So I just grabbed a new one from GKtech for $86 and figured no one sells rebuild kits for them when you can buy an entire new one for such a low price. https://au.gktech.com/products/gearbox-clutch-components/clutch-masters/hfm-clutch-master-cylinder-s14-s15-r33

Trust me mate, you've got way more important things in your life to spend your time thinking about. Both rims are 18x8 with 30 offset. Put some tyres on and forget about it.

Cars all over the world are frequently having the wheels rotated front to back to even out tyre wear. I'm thinking a front rim and rear rim is something like a right handed and left handed screwdriver. You didn't have to measure your rims, they are both 18 inches rims, 8 inches wide with a 30 offset. What were you measuring when you were trying to find discrepancies between the rims? Looks like the only thing you need to sort out is a matching set of rubber for them. But if this was just a troll post, good job mate you got me.

Nice, I haven't seen that done before. Is there an advantage of using a 4D table vs a compensation table or is it purely an ease of use thing?

Is the car still on a flex setup or is it straight e85 now? Looking at the base timing makes me feel anxious (thinking there is more timing in it from the e85 compensation table) but if that base timing is pretty much the total amount of timing then I can sleep at night again lol.

Yep, master cylinder failed about 10km from home. So it was a cheap and quick tow home. I'm becoming an old man, I'd rather just get it towed then stuff about trying to drive it without a clutch lol.

Just did a round of time attack at Lakeside, unopened RB25 making about 350KW on E85, at the end of the day I cracked the drain on the catch can and not a drop came out

I suggest a manual conversion lol

I have a feeling that if the OP's mechanical skillset is at a point where he thinks its ok to install higher flowing injectors while running a stock ECU, while he stated that 'nothing went wrong', I have a feeling that something did in fact go wrong during the install however his mechanical knowledge didn't allow him to realise that something was not done correctly/was damaged/etc. If that is the case, it would probably make the most sense to take the car to a workshop for them to troubleshoot.

Depending on cost and if it looked 100% factory, I would be interested.

It does sound like you'll need to get a seat. With your fix back seat and 4 point harness (with anti-submarining) using the baby seat restraints there is another thing to consider too... In the event of a rollover, you will be held in a bolt-upright position. There is a strong possibility that the roof will cave in, put pressure on the top of your helmet and crush your spine. I really hate to be the safety police as this stuff is a matter for yourself. I just want you to have all of the information available for when you make your decision so you can decide what level of risk you are prepared to take. Safety is a long list of things you can do, full cage, 6 point harness, hans device, fire suppression system, battery isolation, sexy (pricy) helmets and race suits.... But at the end of the day we accept the level of risk we want to take. I would say fixed back seat, half cage and harness are the starting point and form a system as they all work together.

The hall effect sensor that you'd be using doesn't need more resolution then what is supplied by reading off the back of the studs. Heaps of people using this setup without issue.

I use a 4 point harness on the track, I think there are 2 main considerations when doing this. 1. You need to handle the submarining in a collision. 2. The angle of the shoulder straps going back to their mounting point. To deal with the submarining, I use one of these harnesses (and I hope it actually works, not that I want to test it) https://competitionmotorsport.com/schroth-profi-ii-asm-4-point-harness-anti-sub#:~:text=The Schroth Profi II ASM,used in Driver Education programs. I use one of these cages with the eye bolts, the harness is clip in. https://www.agi-precision.com.au/product/a-nissan-skyline-r33-2-door-half-cage-4-point-bolt-in/ I would not recommend using the baby seat attachment points as your proposing. They are designed to support the weight of a small child in a collision, they will not hold your weight in a collision. Have a look at this for guidelines on how strong the mounting point for the harness needs to be (reinforced place 75mm x 50mm x 3mm). https://motorsport.org.au/docs/default-source/manual/general-requirements/schedule-i.pdf?sfvrsn=b143a052_12 Ideally you'd use a cage, next best option would be a very well designed harness bar that ties in to proper anchor points (existing seatbelt mounting points etc). You will see some people mounting their harness back to the rear seat seat belt mounting points, while this will hold the weight, it is incredibly dangerous in a collision. In the event of a collision, the belt will put downwards pressure on your shoulders and crush your spine. Have a look at the attached picture for the recommended angles for the harness belts. I will say, using a harness with GTR seats is a huge improvement over the stock seatbelt. It's not the same as using a fixed back seat as the seat has some flex and you'll feel that once the harness is done up tight (I really can't wait to get a fixed back seat). Still though, once using a harness I'd never go back to using a stock seatbelt.

Why not do something like this? Should be easier then pulling teeth lol

Yeah if I was doing everything again from the beginning, it would be great for things like oil pressure/temp. But in this case the factory water temp sensor is working fine so there isn't really much driving me to use the combined temp/pressure sensor.

It might be time to cut your losses and go to another workshop. Keep in mind this place gave you the car back with boost creep issues and told you the stock ECU needs a re-tune (the stock ECU can't be tuned)... There are a lot of other issues here but I'm not going to keep beating this dead horse.