Murray_Calavera

Yeah, it's up to date.

It's frustrating as its a $250 sensor from Haltech I've also used one of those sensors for fuel pressure, and they read low when running e85. I'm guessing there must be a rubber o-ring inside the sensor that is effected by the ethanol. I think Haltech should drop these range of sensors, especially as they sell stainless ones for the same price =/ Are these the Bosch sensors you were thinking of? https://www.efisolutions.com.au/bosch-fluid-pressure-sensor-10bar-145psi Any thoughts on sensors like this? (it would be easier to keep things 1/8 NPT) https://www.efisolutions.com.au/stainless-steel-pressure-sensor-150psi-1-8-npt-thr~127222

Hi all, Seeing as I don't use the stock dash, I popped a coolant pressure sensor in the stock dash temp sensor location. Set it up in the Haltech and the pressure reading looked good. Had a track event today, half way through the day and engine protection started kicking in - 0 coolant pressure. Before I start digging deeper, I just wanted to make sure I haven't picked a stupid coolant pressure sensor location. I thought I could essentially mount it anywhere, but maybe the sensor is up too high? I'm not sure why it read fine to start but now reads 0 psi. Probably worth mentioning, there were no issues with the coolant overheating and temps were consistent with what I would expect on track.

Here, let me google these for you - https://roadsafety.transport.nsw.gov.au/stayingsafe/drivers/youngdrivers/licence-conditions/index.html#:~:text=P1 drivers under 25 are,one passenger for 12 months. https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf

There are so many red flags that need to be addressed here. Firstly, was the turbo conversion completed by a proper workshop?

What ECU do you have and what is controlling the boost at the moment?

I'll ask the obvious question first, these guys who completed the conversion for you, why didn't they sort these issues?

Yes sorry, I was talking about the damper and not the booster. I've got a gtst and it doesn't have a booster so it didn't even come to mind when I was typing up my reply.

I'd be very grateful that your car gave you notice regarding this issue, rather then leaving you stranded and needing a tow home. I would replace the master cylinder, slave cylinder and use a braided line that deletes the damper. The stuff from GKtech work well. You can bench bleed the complete system out of the car, then install it all together and do the final bleed once installed. Bench bleeding will get you 95% there and will make your life much easier. I've deleted my clutch damper and noticed 0% change in the way the clutch performs or feels.

Nice, that sounds good. The more data the better!

Yep, I'd say your right based on the Haltech settings -

I was worried that was going to be the case. Probably not much else I can do to get better AC on the track

Hi all, I'm wanting to have my AC run during track events, however the stock Haltech settings don't really allow for that. (base map settings, AC turns off over 75% throttle and/or over 4500 RPM with a 4 second hysteresis) I have a suspicion that the Haltech settings are setup that way using the logic that, if the driver is over 75% throttle or over 4500 RPM, surely they want all of the power available so kill the AC to reduce the load on the engine. Before I just set it to run all the time regardless of throttle/RPM, does anyone know if the AC compressor can be over revved or if there is anything else I should be concerned about?

What material was the plug that you used?

Are you talking about installing some sheet metal to tidy everything up after you remove the seat?

Cheapest way? Spray. A wet kit with 200hp jets could be up and running for less then $2000. Then its about $16 per pound when its time to refill your bottle.

I'm not trying to derail this thread, but I'm curious why you are talking about driving the car on e30 or e50? Surely if you have access to e85, you'd just run that all the time and only drive on 98 when you don't have access to e85?

I've been mounting sensors in sandwich plates across various cars for the past 15 or so years, never had a sensor fail yet.

With the added benefit that the Nistune would let the OP keep is stock appearance as well.

You could install the -9 turbos, turn the boost down and put it on the dyno to check the mixtures to ensure everything is safe. The haltech would be hidden behind the passenger side kick panel. If whoever is inspecting the car pulls that panel off, they would spot the aftermarket ecu.

A wastegate like this will allow you to adjust the boost by changing out the springs. This wastegate comes with a 7 psi spring which sounds like what your after. You can run various combinations of springs to have between 3 psi up to 26 psi. https://www.turbosmart.com/product/iwg75-uni-150mm-actuator-7psi/ Not the cheapest option as you'd need to buy 2 of these things, but if your going to keep the -9 turbos, the extra adjustability of these wastegates is nice.

I found something that might be of interest to you, its not an RB20, but I think it might be of interest because its a similar capacity turbo car that revs to about 10,000 RPM. Power comes on about 6,000 RPM. Seems to be around what your looking for. I hope you've got the budget though, the turbo on its own is about $6,000.

Are there any setups in the 21 pages of RB20 dyno results pages that interest you?

I had a problem the other day, ran out of fuel with half a tank remaining lol. When I filled the tank it took 28 litres so 100% not a gauge issue. Random googling of my issue lead me to reading about these upgraded venturis. I don't think this is related to my issue, I was just curious what peoples experience was with upgrading the venturi. I had never even heard of them before, then reading the Radium marketing, they make it sound like everyone with an upgraded pump would need one... but if that was the case, surely I would have heard people talking about them before lol. Back to my problem though, I'll throw a borescope in my fuel tank when I get some time and confirm that the pump and its sock are exactly where they should be before I start chasing rabbits down random holes.

Hi All, I was wondering if anyone has fitted something like this -> http://www.radiumauto.com/Venturi-Jet-Pump-Kit-P760.aspx ? What issues were you having that made you upgrade and did it resolve the issue?