Murray_Calavera

A good rule of thumb is with a 3 port mac valve, you can double your base spring pressure. So with a 1 bar wastegate spring, if you max out your boost controller you should get around 2 bar of boost.

Everything looks right in the photo of your setup. The WB1 has 2 CAN ports on it so you can daisy-chain it with other CAN devices. You could use the second CAN port to connect your dash. You'll only run into issues when you want to install an additional device, say an I/O box, then you'll need a CAN hub. Just so you know, the Haltech CAN hub works with the Platinum Pro (this thing https://www.haltech.com/tag/can-hub/). I don't know if you ordered the can box because you thought the hub wouldn't work with the platinum ecu.

Are you talking about this? https://www.sema.org/epa-news

Power is like money, you can never have too much lol. I'm sure he'll want 550 not long after he gets his 450.

What ECU does JEM recommend you use?

When talking about the 'best' ECU's and Haltech in the same sentence, I wouldn't go with the platinum pro. The platinum range of ECU's were released in 2009 and are showing their age. I'm not saying they are bad, I use one myself, but they are not really modern by todays standards. Have a look at the Elite range of ECU's and be guided by what functions you require as to what model is most suitable for you. As for what the best brand of ECU is, it depends on what you want from it. This is the short version of what I think about them: * Haltech - similar to an Apple product, quality products and you pay a small premium for it. The software is pretty to look at and easy to use. The hardware is more then capable of getting the job done. (I am a Haltech fanboy as I've had amazing customer support over the many years of using their products). * Link - similar to a typical PC/Andriod product. Better value for money when compared to Apple however not as pretty to look at or as user friendly. * Adaptronic - no longer considered a player in the game. Haltech took over Adaptronic back in July 2018 so they could get Andy Wyatt on their roster. While it's still 'technically' a separate company, it hasn't been the same since. Probably the most important bit though, who is going to be tuning your ECU? If not you, ask your tuner what ECU they'd prefer to use for your goals and be guided by that.

Sounds like your fuel pump doesn't have an internal check valve (or it's failed). In any case, if it starts fine - happy days! The the only downside of not having the check valve in your fuel system is it can be hard to start while your pump builds the initial pressure for the car to start. TLDR. She'll be right mate. Don't worry about it.

In Australia, certain modifications require an engineer to say that car still meets the Australian Design Regulations for the vehicles year of manufacture. Changing the seats here is one of those mods that need an engineer to inspect the car to say it still 'street legal'. I'm glad you don't have to go through this process! This will be nice and easy for you, there is a little L bracket that attaches to the rail which attaches to the female buckle. Everything will essentially keep working as the stock seat does now.

Did you order genuine seats or is this an ebay special? I'm guessing you ordered bride rails to install the seats? If they are genuine, the stock seatbelt female buckle attaches to the bride rail. If it's a China special, I have no idea how the seats mount. If you just spent $5,000+ on seats. You might want to shop around for an engineer that is happy to sign them off (no guarantees you'll find one though, but you might!).

Well, they don't know you won't be building with them. Of course you're going to shop around before you choose someone to build your engine, right?

Have you tried speaking to workshops that are building RB30's? Your like a 30 min drive from CRD, why not pop in and have a chat with the boys who are regularly building RB30 powered skylines?

You might be able to pull this off if you get lucky finding a 2nd hand ECU. Maybe someone wants to get rid of an old haltech platinum ECU, I can imagine that might be sold for around the $700 mark.

Agreed, this dramatic pause is killing me. We need details!

It was my first thought but I just didn't know how much it was actually going to cost to get done. But yes, I'm glad it's getting done properly. Should look good in a few years time when I finally get around to respraying the whole car lol.

Well, the car is booked in next week. The rust is getting cut out and a plate welded in, didn't cost as much as I was expecting!

The hole is about 30mm wide, those plugs are only 25mm wide unfortunately. That's why I was thinking of turning something up around the 50mm mark, to cover the whole and the area with rust damage.

I did a bit of google-fu and couldn't find anything that would fit Not being a round hole and being wider then the average wiper/antenna delete kit is making things hard.

Hi all, I was hoping to get some ideas around deleting my antenna. I was getting rust around the antenna and I've never used the radio, so it's time to go! My current thoughts are, clean up the rust, then either get a fabricator to weld in a metal plate for a factory finish, or to turn up a 50mm or so plate and either use an o-ring or seam sealer and bolt it down (similar to the common rear wiper delete kits). Does anyone else have any ideas? I've attached a photo of the rust situation.

What fuel pump did you end up using? The old check valve would have been built into the pump and it sounds like your aftermarket fuel pump doesn't have a check valve. If your going to install a check valve, I'd install it as close to the fuel pump as possible.

When you get access to the ECU, post up screen shots of your fuel tables for: Base fuel map Prime pulse time table Post-start enrich table Cool temp correction table This will give us a good starting point. Also if you could log all the data for a cold start and upload it here that will be a massive help too. You won't break the engine mate, take small steps and you'll be fine. We can help you along the way

Ugh, bloody locked ECU's. Have you asked the tuner for the password? Seeing as you have a wideband, you could sort this out yourself very easily once you get access to the ECU.

Do you have a wideband o2 sensor?

Swap the current sandwich plate for the one with sensor ports on it?

You could eat off that!

I get why you asked the question though, plenty of cars don't need to pull the motor out to remove the sump. We are just lucky I guess lol.