Murray_Calavera

Sorry mate, sump out is engine out.

It's an acquired taste for sure. I really like it but I think it's just because when I look at it, all I see is how much time and effort goes into it.

From the Hypergear website. G2 is happy with the stock ECU and stock fuel system. G2 high flow is capable of making up to 230rwkws. It is happy to hold factory boost, recommended for Rb20det engines and Rb25dets working with factory ecu and fuel system.

If your car is stock and you want to keep it stock, would you not just get another stock turbo if your current one has failed? If what your saying is you want an upgraded bolt on turbo that is so small it won't need any supporting mods or a tune, you might find G2 highflow is what you're after. See link below - https://hypergearturbos.com/product/nissan-rb25det-turbocharger-standard-high-flow-service/

If I was going to build something similar to this, I would want to have the oil control issues sorted. Replace the factory oil pump gears with something decent + oil restrictors + extended/baffled sump + breathers from sump to catch can. Unfortunately that build doesn't have any of these issues sorted. It's your money but I'd say do it properly and spend the extra $$ or just cheap out and do a cheeky refresh, new bearings, MLS gasket, throw in some head and main studs, whatever machining is required/oversized pistons etc. This isn't an exhaustive list but you get the idea.

When you said R33 I didn't think you'd be chasing a NEO. $3,500 is getting up there as far as machining costs go for a basic build. Have they given you an itemised invoice so you can see where that money is going? If your building this thing yourself, a basic refresh won't cost you $15k.

There are still good wrecker motors out there. I would expect that you'd be able to find something decent for around the $2,000 to $3,000 range. If you can do the swap yourself that would be the cheapest option. In a perfect world, you could then rebuild your old motor yourself without any pressure to get it sorted urgently.

100% shilling.

So do you have an oil temp sensor or not?

Do you have an oil temp sensor/ECU or a oil temp gauge? What sort of temps are you seeing at the moment?

Yes indeed, especially when translating an abstract idea it is miles ahead of Google Translate.

Just a FYI, coming from someone that can read Japanese, Google translate does a terrible job of translating Japanese.

Hey mate, I'm pretty sure I used the factory water line for the one your describing. The water line I made up goes from the turbo to the block and you can see it in the above photos. Let me know if there was something in particular you need more details on.

Polyetheramine.

You might also struggle to get a racing harness engineered. A few that I've spoken to want the harness to automatically retract the way the stock one does. If you're 100% set on doing this and keeping it legal, find an engineer to work with first and follow their guidance.

Get the diff and report back. You'll probably find the diff is enough to keep you happy once it's in.

When they say 'custom loom' are they telling you what about it is custom? If it's simply a replica of the factory loom, that price seems steep. If their 'custom loom' is concentrically twisted with autosport connectors etc, then it's the bargain of the century!

Here you go mate, arms with rubber bushing - https://www.hardracesuspension.com.au/suspension-package-nissan-skyline-r33-r34-gtt-gtst~125199

Do you have any intentions of taking your car to the track? If so, having proper engine protection is worth the price of the modern ECU - everything else then is a bonus.

Yep, I've found the same thing with them regarding the garage situation. My coverage is around the 15k mark if memory serves. I'll have to put it up again soon the way the market is going with skyline prices. There is no chance in hell I could replace the car if there was a total loss.

That Shannons quote seems insane, I insure my daily (3rds party only) and my R33 full comp with Shannons for $780 per year and that's for both policies.

I can confirm, the knock control in the pro plug in is useless. It doesn't actually detect knock, all it does is detect noise. The knock control in the elite series is vastly improved and actually useful. There would be plenty of features that people don't turn on, it doesn't make it useless. I would imagine that a lot of tuners don't spend time setting it up as the customers are not prepared to spend the $$ on it. It's one of those things, if the tune is conservative and in the life of the car never sees any knock, then due to cost/benefit it doesn't get setup.

My flex fuel works fine on my dash. Sadly it currently shows 1%

What piston to cylinder wall clearance did you go with when it was built?

The thing is though, we don't even know how much power the car made on lower timing. It might be the case that you pull the timing back to 20 degrees and lose 20hp and you call it a day. There are so many things that can affect the overall power the car makes, timing is only a part of it. One thing I can guarantee though is, Nismo 740's are not happy on pump 98 at idle or any other really low load area, like cruising on a slight decline and using a touch of throttle to maintain a constant speed (around -70KPA if your looking at a fuel map).