Murray_Calavera

Just a handy tip for your AC compressor adventure The R33 series 1 gtst, series 2 gtst and GTR all have different AC components. If you are replacing the compressor and thinking about replacing other components, have a look and see what is available overall. I replaced every AC component in my series 1 gtst and it was a nightmare sourcing parts. If I had a time machine, I would have replaced it all with series 2 parts as they are much easier to find.

Well it's not black and white, if you torque it to ARP specs, then they will be below their yield point and the metal will 'spring back' and be reusable again. This is not a guarantee that they are as good as new, but typically they are fine to be used again. You can torque ARP studs to yield, it will clamp the head down tighter but now the studs are a one time use only. This isn't wrong, the mechanic may have a valid reason for wanting a higher clamp on the head. Without knowing how much torque has been put through them, I wouldn't risk using them again.

A big part of how reusable the ARP studs are is if they have been torqued beyond their yield point. Do you know the specs the head was torqued to before?

I don't think auto Skylines are cheaper. If you buy one you need to buy a manual gearbox and all the other components to install it. Definitely cheaper to buy an already manual skyline lol

Does this bad boy not work with the Elite? https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-011501-can-keypad/

I vote IC7, its so sexy

Here is a Youtuber with a RB25 and over 500hp for you - https://www.youtube.com/c/ClutchKickJunkies/videos Have a look at the RB25 dyno results page and see what mods people are running to achieve your power goals -

For problem 2, how long does the car run for before it dies? Is the tune locked? Are you wanting to plug a laptop in and sort the tune out yourself? I can help you troubleshoot the tune but if your not wanting to tune it yourself, the answer is going to be take it back to your tuner. I can't imagine they'll charge you for what is essentially warranty work.

I wonder if your counting one of the 'inlets' as the port for the vent? All catch can's will have at least 2 ports on them, an inlet and outlet. The outlet either gets a breather on it, venting to atmo as your intending to do. Or it gets a line on it that is connected to the intake to pull a vacuum through the catch can helping it to work better. I've attached a photo of a atmo venting catch can to help clear this up. If your wanting to keep the PCV valve, you might want to consider getting a catch can with 2 inlets and 1 vent on top. Feed the PCV line and also the red line you've circled to the 2 inlets on the can. Vent the top line to atmo. Just wondering, is there any reason you don't want to fit the outlet port back into the intake?

Even if the new sensor fixes the issue, it's worth playing with the multimeter when it arrives to figure out how it works and get comfortable with it. There are good instructional videos on youtube showing you what you can do with it.

I wish I could have come up with this myself... especially as I made up that water line =/ Could have got the proper size heat shielding too rather then putting -6 shielding on it to clear the fittings...

End result

Yep, I've flipped it around and put the heat shielding stuff on it too. I'll get a photo up a bit later.

I think your right. 3rd times the charm! Originally I was worried about it getting too close to the oil drain line, but the bit it's near is metal.

Ok, so taking on board everything said above - I've ended up with this. I'm thinking where the factory water bracket was, I can get a bracket made up to support the flexible oil and water lines that will run through there.

Those hard lines are a beautiful thing, who made those?

Hi all, I was wondering what the ideal way to route the turbo oil feed line is? The line that Tao supplied is so long it makes me think there is a particular reason for the length. I can only really think of 2 options, but both end up with a lot of excess line. I've attached a picture to show my thoughts. The squiggly lines aren't to scale but you get the idea lol

Yep, no issues with fluid level. And I've checked the solenoid... Makes sense why there is no part number ...

Yep, that's what I was looking at. I still can't believe the solenoid is a non-serviceable item. Fingers crossed it turns out to be the HICAS ECU.

Yep makes sense, I'll start there. Is the solenoid a non-servicable item? I've been googling for ages and staring at steering rack parts diagrams on jp-carparts.com, I can't find the part. Surely you don't replace the entire power steering assembly if the solenoid fails?

Your google-fu is stronger then mine. I couldn't find anything similar to my issue when searching. Thanks for finding this for me, I'll give it a crack and see how I go.

Hi All, I have an issue with my power steering becoming heavy in my r33gtst. It only does it under these exact conditions - The car is driven from cold and brought up to normal operating temp. The engine is turned off for at least 5 or so minutes. When the engine is turned on again, the power steering is heavy. Sometimes it never goes back to normal, usually it goes back to normal after 20 to 30 minutes of driving, rarely it goes back to normal after a couple of minutes of driving. A typical situation of this issue popping up is refueling at a servo. When the car is started from cold and driven, you can drive for hours and the power steering is always perfect. I've done 100's of kilometres and provided the engine is never turned off, the power steering is fine. I don't know exactly how long the car needs to sit before the issue sorts itself out, however after the car has sat overnight, it is always perfect in the morning. Turning the car off and quickly back on never causes the power steering issue to pop up. While the power steering has been heavy, I've thrown the laptop on the Haltech and checked if the ECU was getting a power steering signal - looks like the signal is fine. I'm not sure where to start trouble shooting from here so any advice is much appreciated.

Any chance you know what the piston to cylinder wall clearance is?

Yep, plus using DTM connectors are such a luxury to work with compared to 30 year old brittle OEM connectors. If your only doing a few connectors, you can get open barrel pins to save you from buying a Deutsch closed barrel crimper.

@Unzipped Composites and @ActionDan when considering the price of the AR1's, are they any good from a value point of view? I haven't tried them yet but the price makes them quite attractive.