Murray_Calavera

I think the problem with cheaping out on the ecu is, you'll likely want more power in future. You've already said you had originally planned to keep it stock... I think once you're at 300kw, you'll be saying the same thing again. Maybe just 400kw and I'll be done... To future-proof yourself, I'd say look at something around the Haltech 2500 range.

My 2c This is only ever worth it if you skip the stock GTT step, e.g. put in a forged RB25, big highmount turbo, big aftermarket brakes, etc etc Install parts that if you had a stock GTT, you'd end up replacing anyway. Go big or buy a real GTT and leave it stock.

Something like this? https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9F33_M_GgENMHNGTzR1OWRwYms/view

You could lower your base spring pressure to say, 0.5 bar and then use a 4 port mac valve and run a very progressive boost by gear. You could setup your traction control. You haven't said why it doesn't work, I'm guessing you need a non-powered wheel speed sensor. Stickier tyres as mentioned above. Actually I think this has all been said before, this thread and your recent tyre thread.

Yeah ok, you don't have much flexibility with such a high base spring pressure. Boost by gear won't really help with that What do you need to do to get the traction control up and running?

Yeah that's the plan at this stage, thought I'd pick everyone's brain here over night while waiting for tomorrow to arrive though.

I thought this as well, however all 4 calipers have been bled and the rear partition hasn't been touched at all. As each caliper was bled, only the front partition drained.

"G4" doesn't give us enough info, there are G4 Fury, G4 Xtreme, G4 Thunder... etc I'm trying to work out what is your base spring pressure and max boost pressure and if your ECU has traction control functionality. If you turn boost control off, how much boost does your turbo make?

Hi all, So I was doing a major service on the Mrs Subi today, I went to flush the brake fluid and found something interesting. The brake reservoir has a partition in it. I drained the front accessible partition, no fluid drained back in from the rear partition (the levels didn't average out). Next thought, perhaps front/rear brakes use front/rear partition in the reservoir. Nope. Put a litre of fluid through it starting with bleeding the back, nothing drained from the rear partition in the reservoir. I checked the Subi workshop manual, nothing is mentioned about the rear partition that I could see. I read the sections on the brake lines, master cylinder, ABS Sequence Control and VDC Sequence Control. The brakes bled up fine and work perfectly, but I really want to flush the rear partition that is filled with old fluid which is noticeably darker. I've uploaded a photo from the workshop manual to show the partitions. Edit: does anyone know what the rear partition is used for? If all the brake lines were completely flushed and it wasn't touched, when would the rear partition be used during normal operation?

Your base spring pressure is 1.2 bar? What is your max boost? What type of Link ECU do you have?

What is your gate spring pressure? Maybe try playing with boost by gear and pulling boost out of first gear to help you with traction. What ECU do you have, do you have traction control?

Hmm the Velo seats are ADR complaint which is a good starting point, if it's only the drivers seat I'd kindly explain to the officer that the rear seat can be accessed through the front passenger seat. Using GTR seats will depend on what you want them to do. I currently use GTR seats, have a half cage and harness for the track. I still can't wait to get fixed back seats in. If it was a street car only, GTR seats are amazing. Good compromise on support and comfort.

Are you happy to use fixed back seats? Going fixed back saves you a heap of cash and you can get it done for well under $2,000. A set of bride rails say $450 ish, a nice Velo seat say $1,100 with plenty of beer money to spare. Fixed back seats can be comfy too, there are shit fixed back and nice fixed back, you'll just need to see what works for you.

You could start here - https://www.nittotire.com/competition-tires/ Or here - https://www.federaltire.com/en/products_detail.php?class=Federal-Motorsports&products_detail_sn=3 Or if you have $$$, here - https://www.racedivision.com.au/products/yokohama-advan-a050-motorsport-tyre?variant=22653045112917

Maybe consider a 2nd set of wheels that run semi slicks. Bust them out for when you want some grip. Trying to tame 500hp with street tyres is asking a bit much.

haha fair call. Thought it might be a neater solution then moving the heater controls and installing gauges. You can display anything you want on the dash and have multiple displays to cycle through etc Do you think the display itself is hideous? or the layout on the display? If its the latter you can change the colours to anything you want and there are different types of display layouts as well.

I'll just leave these here - https://3dracingsolutions.com/collections/nissan-skyline-r32-1/products/r32dash https://www.haltech.com/haltech-ic-7-display-dash-a-new-way-of-seeing-things/

I deleted the factory blow of valve and installed the air temp sensor into the blanking plate. Triple win.

Yep, and r33's as well. It's an easy enough job to bin the maf and repin the ecu connector and use the stock gtr air temp sensor input with the old maf wiring going to the air temp sensor. Win win

I'm more thinking about the replies talking about the bulk $$$ needed to build a car from a bare shell, only to be a p plater car.

Do you have an air temp sensor and what temps have you been seeing that has you worried?

When you originally tested the hardness, did you run multiple tests and take an average? Or did you test multiple areas of the block and take an average? What I'm wondering is, is the 242 within the range of your original hardness testing?

This feels like a trick question, maybe paint? Yeah I'm going with paint as my final answer.

Venting a catch can to atmosphere is illegal, if that matters to you. Having it plumbed back into the intake, the vacuum helps the catch can work better. Venting a can to atmosphere won't cause a vacuum leak. Some motorsport events require the catch can to be a minimum of 2L, I can't think of any other reason to use 2L other then more frequent changes as you said.

Very nice