Murray_Calavera

perhaps a bore out to 2.5 *wink wink*

Do you have a stock ECU and stock fuel pump?

I am commenting because I am genuinely trying to help you. There is a cost involved in this matter, dyno time, workshop time or any other parts required to diagnose or repair. It was my opinion that $400 is money well spent and the gauge/sensor have multiple purposes to diagnose this issue then add value in other areas later. The skyline does not have a useful oil pressure gauge from factory, it is basically a low oil pressure dash light. I can show you 40+ psi swings in oil pressure and no changes on the factory 'oil pressure gauge' if you like. I am in nsw Australia. Workshops here are still open and people are able to take their cars in for repair. I don't know what your circumstances are so cannot comment on that. Fuel pressure at 14psi of boost should be around 58psi give or take (provided your using the stock FPR etc) It looks like your on the stock ecu, if you had an issue with the timing I would expect that issue to be everywhere. Not purely at WOT on high boost. YouTube anti lag, that is massive fuel and retarded timing. I doubt your car is doing that. Seeing as you have a wideband gauge, why don't you hook it up and see what the mixtures actually are? I am also amazed that your tuner has said he doubts this is a fuel pressure issue. I would look for a new tuner but that's a matter for yourself.

This is getting out of hand. Put a pressure gauge in your fuel line, after the fuel filter but before the rail. If you are set on not going to a workshop or dyno, you can get something like this - https://www.prospeedracing.com.au/AEM-X-Series-Digital-150-PSI/10-BAR-Oil-Pressure-Gauge-30-0307 Once you've diagnosed this current issue, you could use it for an oil pressure gauge which is always nice to have. If you ever get a proper ECU, you can feed the signal to that instead and use it for things like engine protection etc. It is money well spent. Stop trying to diagnose this lean condition using other methods, you've already been told numerous times you need to know what the fuel pressure actually is. Simply looking at the fuel pump won't tell you anything. Believe it of not, Walbro pumps can fail too.

Rich (fuel mixture) and retard (timing), stock ECU is doing this to protect the motor in an overboost situation. Although I do like your version more lol I'm picturing my motor on a beach somewhere with a martini after a hard track day Has the car done this ever since you owned it? Removing the vacuum line to your FPR at idle won't do anything, that vacuum line is there to increase the fuel pressure as the boost pressure rises. I'd be looking around for a sneaky little boost t style boost controller hiding in your engine bay that is spoiling your fun. Maybe grab a workshop manual and make sure all the vacuum lines are going where they should be.

Can you post up the dyno graphs for your tune? What did your tuner say, surely it was doing this on the dyno at the time?

Winner winner chicken dinner. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-13129 It's 1:1. Same as the factory FPR. This is not a 'rising rate' FPR.

Are you a million % sure it is a 'rising rate' FPR? I'm guessing you have a vacuum/boost referenced FPR that increases the fuel pressure to match the increase inlet pressures. It scales at 1:1, so 1 psi increase in boost, 1 psi increase in fuel pressure. This is how the stock one works, and I'm guessing that is also how your one works. Back in the 90's people used to add rising rate FPR when tuning was very primitive as a way of turboing their NA cars. I haven't heard of anyone using a rising rate reg for at least 15 years now, could be more. Can you add a weblink to the FPR you installed?

Sounds good. Fingers crossed it's only the charge light that I need to retain.

Hi all, I need to get my fuel level signal into my Haltech ECU and I wanted to get some ideas before I pulled my dash apart. Is this going to be as simple as, a signal wire will run into the stock fuel level gauge and for example, full is 5 volts empty is 1 volt etc. Then I can create a rough table checking the volts as the fuel levels change. The Haltech IC7 dash now has support for odometer and fuel level so I'm keen to bin the stock dash and just run this with a sexy 3D printed dash cluster.

So the boost leak you found, did you fix it?

I would try - Skyline Spares at Wetherill Park http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/ https://justjap.com/ If still no luck I'd get the parts direct from Japan. https://jp-carparts.com/ The last time I used jp-carparts, I got the part here landed for about half the cost of what the dealer wanted.

Hey mate, where abouts are you located?

Well, if you want more boost your going to need some form of boost controller. If all you have is a stock turbo with stock actuator, all you can do is run stock boost. Pretty simple. You seem upset that they 'left the boost t installed' - how did you expect them to turn up your boost if they removed the boost t? Also in your first post you say the car has a stock turbo, but in your list of mods you say it's got a TD06? You realise that isn't the stock turbo right? Did you buy the Power FC and boost t brand new? Where abouts are you located?

The short answer is you'll be fine. You probably won't even notice the difference, your going from what 8 psi to gate pressure which is what, 7 psi?

Ah, yeah it's Japanese for no smoking

Very tidy! Looks like a lot of love went into that build. What's the story with the no smoking sticker on your ashtray? that's a bit random lol

I'm guessing you have an aftermarket ECU of some sort. Is your fuel control set to closed loop? What is the fuel trim doing once the car is warm at idle when the car is leaning out?

Ooo just found this - https://www.turbosmart.com/product/opr-t40-40psi-blue/ Oil pressure regulator for your turbo, very sexy. Then you don't have to worry about correctly sizing your restrictor. Nice.

I'm hesitant to say 'it's wrong' as I don't really like absolutes... However, I don't see how they could incorporate an oil restrictor as there are different sized restrictors for different applications.

Too easy mate, this is from Garret's website - https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing-and-performance/choosing-a-turbocharger/turbo-system-optimization/ Oil Supply & Drainage BALL BEARING TURBO An oil restrictor is recommended for optimal performance with ball bearing turbochargers. Oil pressure of 40 – 45 psi at maximum engine speed is recommended to prevent damage to the turbocharger’s internals. In order to achieve this pressure, a restrictor with a 0.040” orifice will normally suffice, but you should always verify the oil pressure entering the turbo after the restrictor in ensuring that the components are functioning properly. Recommended oil feed is -3AN or -4AN line or hose/tubing with a similar ID. As always, use an oil filter that meets or exceeds the OEM specifications.

None built in, you'll need to do that separately.

Ah mate, don't be like that. You're on Skylines Australia, not Corollas Australia after all.

If it's all bolted up properly and the alignment is good, just keep driving it. You'll get used to the changes with more seat time.

Yeah, I have a Haltech plug in with many boxes and a dash. My water temp engine protection is set to 105 degrees and has never been triggered as well.