Murray_Calavera

hmm my instincts say something else is the problem. For years I ran my R33's air con with no working fan (didn't realise it wasn't working til my compressor started leaking and was replaced). Running the air con on hot days, with no working fan, I never had any issues with the car overheating. The only issue I had was the air con wasn't as cold while sitting in traffic, ice cold while driving though. I don't have any other suggestions though

Excuse to buy an aftermarket ECU, tick the box for AC fan to turn on when the compressor is on.

I'm surprised how good the prices are on your machine work, do you mind posting who is doing the job for you? Feel free to PM me if you don't want to make it public.

If it wasn't clear what I was trying to say - What uses more fuel, a non-turbo 2.5L motor or a turbo 2.5L motor? It's pretty obvious. And if you care about fuel economy, you can make your 2.5L naturally aspirated motor target a leaner mixture. Leaner then what the manufactures can.

I don't know how relevant this is to anyone with an aftermarket ECU and bigger turbo. The manufacturers have a very different set of goals when tuning, emissions control being top priority for example. There are things we can do, for example targeting a AFR of 15 during cruise and low load, which the manufacturers can't due to the massive spike in NOX by doing this. Then factoring in AFR targets for when boost builds, I would imagine that most would richen their mixtures very quickly when boost is coming on. Then we have the matter of larger turbos not used by the manufactures. Safe to say that at 1500 RPM, anyone with a big boy turbo will not be making boost. However 2500 RPM, boost will be building and depending on the tune you will be targeting richer mixtures. I've attached my AFR target map for a visual aid. Feel free to laugh at my tune, I do not care about fuel economy.

Oh and just to be clear, I never said anything about parts coming from ebay or not. My only issue is using something untested, I don't care where the part came from. I'm actually using a set of vitara pistons in a swift motor I'm putting together that are an ebay item. Lucky for me there are a bunch of Honda guys running these pistons in their D series motors, so I'm confident they will be up to the task. $4000 is a great price to put a bottom end together, what machine work are you getting done as part of the build?

I think it's great that you are happy to run these rods and then share your experiences. Just my stance on things of this nature, I wouldn't want to be the first person to trial a new thing. RB's have been around for so long now, I'd be much more comfortable using something that has been tried and tested hundred of times over. Especially when spending $10,000+ on an engine build. On a random note, I have personally handled a set of maxpeedingrods. I can't remember what engine they were for though (most likely some flavour of LS) however if they were non-branded, I probably couldn't pick it between a Spool rod. More anecdotal stuff, the rods had been balanced and it appeared that not a lot of material hand been taken off them. So maybe they are as good as every other cheap rod out there? who knows.

Can you explain how you came to this conclusion? I am interested in the math and any other data you are relying on to make this statement.

I don't understand why people use cheap rods. Doesn't even have to be this brand, just any of the cheap $500ish Chinese rods. When an engine build is in the area of $10,000, why would you not spend the extra $200 on a set of Spool rods for peace of mind.

We all know regardless of what people say here, you're going to end up with red calipers lol xD

please explain this condition of accelerating throttles.

Great excuse to by a sexy aftermarket dash and set it to MPH.

What psi is your wastegate spring? If its 7psi and your using 3 port boost control, I'd start there. Anything over double the base pressure is pretty difficult with a 3 port setup.

Also don't trust the millage on any Skyline. Assume they all have had the clocks been wound back to what it currently shows, then focus on the condition of the car, how well it's been cared for and how it's been used.

I would be blown away if that turbo was too laggy for you. I know of many Suzuki Swift Gti with their little 1.3L motors, running that exact turbo and it is not laggy in that application. By what RPM do you need boost to start building and when do you want peak boost by?

Hey mate, The short version is, you'll be happy with that turbo. Here is a bit of history for that turbo from the www.prospeedracing.com.au website - This GT2560R is the factory turbocharger that is fitted to the JDM Nissan S15 200SX. This Turbocharger can also be known as the "GT28R", "GT2860R" or "S15 Ball Bearing" turbocharger. The Garrett model designation though is GT2560R, as it runs a T25 turbine wheel, and a 60mm Exducer Compressor wheel. This Turbocharger is a direct bolt-on replacement for the Nissan S13, 180SX CA18DET/SR20DET, with the use of a compressor inlet/outlet conversion kit (see related products). A slight Elongation of the mounting holes on the factory oil drain fitting is also required. This Turbocharger is a direct bolt-on replacement for the Nissan S14 Silvia, and Nissan S15 200sx. A slight Elongation of the mounting holes on the factory oil drain fitting is required when fitting to the S14, or Australian delivered S15. This Turbocharger is a direct replacement for the GT2560R (466541-5001S), with the only differences being the turbine housing & turbine wheel material.

Nissan has already tuned your stock ECU. You will not be able to improve on the factory tune by playing with your SAFC. If you want to play with it for fun, go ahead and enjoy yourself. Just be mindful that there is nothing to be gained power-wise and there is the potential to damage your motor if you don't know what your doing (eg if you lean the mixtures out too much under high load).

Yeah ok, so the short version is - your mixtures would be fine with the stock ECU. Which you should be able to see on your AFR gauge. Why did you replace the factory FPR? Also, what are you trying to achieve by 'tuning' your essentially stock car, with a SAFC II?

Hang on a sec, a non-turbo motor? What mods have you done that have resulted in you needing to touch up your fuel mixtures?

You want to make 600hp on a stock internal rb25 on 98? This is going to be interesting.

Do we win anything for guessing right?

"can" you? Yes. Should you, probably not. I would not use a stock sump with a nitto pump due to the increased flow, I'd want more volume to back it up. I'd look at getting an enlarged and baffled/gated sump. If your building this yourself, have a chat with your machinist about your long term goals and what they recommend to support that. Hopefully your using a machinist that has worked on hundreds of RB's and knows them inside out.

Agreed, oiling mods over everything else. Are you going to be personally building this motor?

2 of the big ones.

You could make that power with an unopened motor. If all you are doing is adding forged pistons and rods, then there's no point in revving it higher then stock. I don't know if you've looked into how much it costs to convert to solid lifters, it's not a simple job and I'm sure the cost would terrify you. You'd be better of selling your motor and buying a NEO long motor. Why do you want solid lifters and upgraded valves for a 400hp motor?