Murray_Calavera

So I went on a little AC replacement adventure lately and learnt that the R33 GTS series 1 components are different to the series 2 which is different to the GTR.... I know this is R33, but I'm guessing you'll have similar issues. Seems that Nissan thought it would be funny to change the fitting sizes between the versions of each car for apparently no reason. My advice would be, if you are going to replace your compressor, think strongly about replacing the entire AC system with a later model components which you might find easier to source. You might even be able to get an entire AC system second hand for a good price. I really struggled to replace all of the R33 series 1 components, however if I replaced everything for series 2, it would have been really really easy. If you are committed to replacing the R32 gtst compressor, you might find sourcing it from Japan to be the best best. https://jp-carparts.com/ That's who I ended up using to get my hard to find parts and cost about 1/3 the price of buying them through Nissan locally. Good luck

Might be worth looking around to see what a 2nd hand motor is going for.

If you have a quality delete kit, it will be much stronger then the Nissan rod ends. I destroyed a brand new set of Nissan rod ends in less then a year, granted my car does get tracked/drifted. I haven't had any issues since putting in the delete kit.

Welcome to the skyline family, would be good to see some pictures of the GTR

Yeah I know, things have escalated quickly lol. I just figured this option was worth mentioning when he said he wanted a setup similar to the R34 GTR unit, so I thought he was looking for a really neat and clean setup.

What do you mean if it stops the dash working? It wont affect your stock dash at all.

How much are you prepared to spend? You could buy an aftermarket ecu and grab a dash, a Haltech ic7 would work perfectly. A couple of the stock displays show values only, check out the YouTube video around 3:20 to see what I mean

This might be relevant to your interests... https://www.powertunedigital.com/ Not sure if you could do something better for the money.

Because they don't run air flow meters?

Hi mate, my classic car recommendation would be a Citroen 2CV or a Citroen DS if you want something more modern.

I thought you said you sent your head off? With your bottom end, how much of the work will you be doing yourself?

This might be a silly question but isn't this a problem for your tuner? Surely the onus is on him to sort out the engine that he damaged?

What are the condition of the rims?

Welcome mate, I hope you learn lots here and get your hands on a Skyline sometime soon

Brake pads, no. Plenty of brake mods do require engineering however if all you are doing is swapping the factory pads with an aftermarket equivalent (same size, similar compound, similar performance etc), then no it doesn't need engineering. Fuel injectors, yes for a few reasons. Changes to the injectors with a non-standard item (either larger or smaller injectors) will have an impact on the vehicles emissions. Also, to run larger injectors you'll need an aftermarket ECU which will need to be engineered. This is all based on NSW, I'm not sure where you are and it might vary. Source: Vehicle standards information PUBLISHED 8 NOVEMBER 2013 | REV. 3 Supersedes VSI No. 6 | Rev. 2.1 | 1 November 2007 6 Light vehicle modifications Modification to engines and/or exhausts that impacts* the emissions levels applicable to those ADRs specified for the vehicle. * ’impacts’ means an increase in emissions levels specified in the ADRs. Examples requiring certification: • Fitting non-original valve train components. • Fitting non-original or non equivalent carburettors or fuel injection equipment. • Removal of bypass or emission control equipment including exhaust gas recirculation (EGR), positive crankcase ventilation (PCV), catalytic convertors, engine management sensors. • Fitting non-original or non-equivalent air intake manifolds. • Replacing original engine control unit. ****And typical spiel about this not being advice, speak to an Engineer etc.****

Hi all, So I've discovered my block has a bunch of tiny cracks that are invisible to the naked eye (well, invisible my non-machinist untrained eye). There are cracks around the water jackets/head bolt holes where the yellow paint is. How common are these cracks and what are peoples thoughts on running this block as-is? I'm chasing roughly 350kw and I'll be using ARP studs, and a Nitto head gasket. I'm worried I'm going to get stuck in a never ending cycle of getting another used block only to find it has the exact same cracks.

Have driven some decent skylines. Have driven some decent evos. I own a skyline. I don't own an evo. Dollar for dollar, I wouldn't be surprised if the evo was quicker. But I find the skyline a lot more fun and rewarding.

Sign me up, hopefully there's no issues with road closures.

Could you describe what its doing when you say it's running rough?

Welcome! The R34 looks very tidy Your list looks pretty good. You could add, flush the brake fluid and inspect the pads/rotors (measure rotor thickness), inspect all your suspension bushes/rod ends.

I'd be surprised if you could get T2's for the front, might be able to get them for the back though. If you want better advice, we'll need to know what you use the car for

You seem to be scared of undoing those 4 bolts. You also seem to have hit a road block. My advice would be, remove the bolts. You might find it helps. If it doesn't, you'll be surprised that you can do them back up. Don't be scared to have a go and try things. If your paranoid, take lots of photos and put the parts/bolts into resealable plastic bags and label them.

You say you've unbolted everything but in the picture there are still many bolts? Go forth and remove bolts, this should be a very simple job.

Seeing as your going rebuild at this stage and posted earlier that you're trying to do it on the cheap, just remember the 'rebuild kit' is only a small part of your upcoming expenses. I'd get these things quoted up before you start - * Engine cleaning * Crack testing, block, rods, pistons (seeing as you plan to reuse these) * Bore/hone, with torque plate if you prefer * Re-surfacing the block * Any crank work required, grind/linish * Balancing * Servicing the head I wouldn't be surprised if you dropped $2,000 at the machine shop. Also be prepared to replace parts that you didn't expect to replace. Old hoses, snapped bolts, various other worn connectors etc. You get the idea. It all adds up, I wouldn't be surprised if the whole job ran you $5,000 with you doing all the labour you can, pulling the motor, stripping it, assembly and installation. I'm guessing you have all of the tools required to build an engine, if not factor that into the overall cost of the engine build as well. In the end the hardest part of sticking to the budget might be avoiding the, 'I'll just do this one thing..." Maybe you want to put a set of studs in it or maybe you want to use ACL bearings, or a metal head gasket... it's a slippery slope my friend lol. My 1 thing would be to put a set of rocker arm stoppers in while you're there. Good luck

Add a turbo to make use of all the extra fuel