Murray_Calavera

Winner winner chicken dinner. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-13129 It's 1:1. Same as the factory FPR. This is not a 'rising rate' FPR.

Are you a million % sure it is a 'rising rate' FPR? I'm guessing you have a vacuum/boost referenced FPR that increases the fuel pressure to match the increase inlet pressures. It scales at 1:1, so 1 psi increase in boost, 1 psi increase in fuel pressure. This is how the stock one works, and I'm guessing that is also how your one works. Back in the 90's people used to add rising rate FPR when tuning was very primitive as a way of turboing their NA cars. I haven't heard of anyone using a rising rate reg for at least 15 years now, could be more. Can you add a weblink to the FPR you installed?

Sounds good. Fingers crossed it's only the charge light that I need to retain.

Hi all, I need to get my fuel level signal into my Haltech ECU and I wanted to get some ideas before I pulled my dash apart. Is this going to be as simple as, a signal wire will run into the stock fuel level gauge and for example, full is 5 volts empty is 1 volt etc. Then I can create a rough table checking the volts as the fuel levels change. The Haltech IC7 dash now has support for odometer and fuel level so I'm keen to bin the stock dash and just run this with a sexy 3D printed dash cluster.

So the boost leak you found, did you fix it?

I would try - Skyline Spares at Wetherill Park http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/ https://justjap.com/ If still no luck I'd get the parts direct from Japan. https://jp-carparts.com/ The last time I used jp-carparts, I got the part here landed for about half the cost of what the dealer wanted.

Hey mate, where abouts are you located?

Well, if you want more boost your going to need some form of boost controller. If all you have is a stock turbo with stock actuator, all you can do is run stock boost. Pretty simple. You seem upset that they 'left the boost t installed' - how did you expect them to turn up your boost if they removed the boost t? Also in your first post you say the car has a stock turbo, but in your list of mods you say it's got a TD06? You realise that isn't the stock turbo right? Did you buy the Power FC and boost t brand new? Where abouts are you located?

The short answer is you'll be fine. You probably won't even notice the difference, your going from what 8 psi to gate pressure which is what, 7 psi?

Ah, yeah it's Japanese for no smoking

Very tidy! Looks like a lot of love went into that build. What's the story with the no smoking sticker on your ashtray? that's a bit random lol

I'm guessing you have an aftermarket ECU of some sort. Is your fuel control set to closed loop? What is the fuel trim doing once the car is warm at idle when the car is leaning out?

Ooo just found this - https://www.turbosmart.com/product/opr-t40-40psi-blue/ Oil pressure regulator for your turbo, very sexy. Then you don't have to worry about correctly sizing your restrictor. Nice.

I'm hesitant to say 'it's wrong' as I don't really like absolutes... However, I don't see how they could incorporate an oil restrictor as there are different sized restrictors for different applications.

Too easy mate, this is from Garret's website - https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing-and-performance/choosing-a-turbocharger/turbo-system-optimization/ Oil Supply & Drainage BALL BEARING TURBO An oil restrictor is recommended for optimal performance with ball bearing turbochargers. Oil pressure of 40 – 45 psi at maximum engine speed is recommended to prevent damage to the turbocharger’s internals. In order to achieve this pressure, a restrictor with a 0.040” orifice will normally suffice, but you should always verify the oil pressure entering the turbo after the restrictor in ensuring that the components are functioning properly. Recommended oil feed is -3AN or -4AN line or hose/tubing with a similar ID. As always, use an oil filter that meets or exceeds the OEM specifications.

None built in, you'll need to do that separately.

Ah mate, don't be like that. You're on Skylines Australia, not Corollas Australia after all.

If it's all bolted up properly and the alignment is good, just keep driving it. You'll get used to the changes with more seat time.

Yeah, I have a Haltech plug in with many boxes and a dash. My water temp engine protection is set to 105 degrees and has never been triggered as well.

hmm my instincts say something else is the problem. For years I ran my R33's air con with no working fan (didn't realise it wasn't working til my compressor started leaking and was replaced). Running the air con on hot days, with no working fan, I never had any issues with the car overheating. The only issue I had was the air con wasn't as cold while sitting in traffic, ice cold while driving though. I don't have any other suggestions though

Excuse to buy an aftermarket ECU, tick the box for AC fan to turn on when the compressor is on.

I'm surprised how good the prices are on your machine work, do you mind posting who is doing the job for you? Feel free to PM me if you don't want to make it public.

If it wasn't clear what I was trying to say - What uses more fuel, a non-turbo 2.5L motor or a turbo 2.5L motor? It's pretty obvious. And if you care about fuel economy, you can make your 2.5L naturally aspirated motor target a leaner mixture. Leaner then what the manufactures can.

I don't know how relevant this is to anyone with an aftermarket ECU and bigger turbo. The manufacturers have a very different set of goals when tuning, emissions control being top priority for example. There are things we can do, for example targeting a AFR of 15 during cruise and low load, which the manufacturers can't due to the massive spike in NOX by doing this. Then factoring in AFR targets for when boost builds, I would imagine that most would richen their mixtures very quickly when boost is coming on. Then we have the matter of larger turbos not used by the manufactures. Safe to say that at 1500 RPM, anyone with a big boy turbo will not be making boost. However 2500 RPM, boost will be building and depending on the tune you will be targeting richer mixtures. I've attached my AFR target map for a visual aid. Feel free to laugh at my tune, I do not care about fuel economy.

Oh and just to be clear, I never said anything about parts coming from ebay or not. My only issue is using something untested, I don't care where the part came from. I'm actually using a set of vitara pistons in a swift motor I'm putting together that are an ebay item. Lucky for me there are a bunch of Honda guys running these pistons in their D series motors, so I'm confident they will be up to the task. $4000 is a great price to put a bottom end together, what machine work are you getting done as part of the build?