Murray_Calavera

What is the long term plan for the car?

Can you go for a drive, log all the channels and post the data up?

The message here essentially is, your fuel mixture and ignition timing can be crazy far away from being optimal however the car feels fine to drive. He isn't talking about the physical timing belt when talking about timing not being correct.

Do you have a fuel pressure sensor?

Yep, see attached Yep. For example, you buy a Haltech ECU and upload the Haltech base map, the car will start and feel ok while driving however will have had 0 tuning done (provided the car is essentially stock, the base map will line up). If you get a few seconds spare, please remove the passenger kick panel and solve this mystery for me lol.

Ah ok. It would be a lot more accurate to simply say, the car has not been tuned. Blowing black smoke on boost is so crazy far from any state of 'tune' that I would not even call it poorly tuned. Do you know where the ECU lives? It takes about 10 seconds to access the ECU and we could solve this mystery.

and this Just don't add up for me. What is the go with the tuning on your car, who tuned it? Was it put on a dyno? Also, I'm still waiting to find out what type of ECU and boost controller you have lol.

What boost controller/ECU are you using?

Can we not just turn the boost down until you get the car tuned?

@Tillis3 Any luck with the thicker oil?

The ones that came with the kit - https://www.efihardware.com/products/3194/submersible-bulkhead-terminals-hex-head I told myself a few times, take a photo of the ring terminal with a ruler for scale. But then I didn't. Suppose the most important bit is it's all sized appropriately (ring terminal is the same size as the post), this photo is a good example -

Took the car for a hard drive (the same drive that melted the Taark kit) and a couple of casual drives today. The terminal temps appear to be tied to ambient temps. After each drive, including the hard drive, the terminal temps were always within 3 degrees of the other metal surfaces in the boot. Everything appears perfect so far. I suppose the next real test will be when I drive down for WTA, I'll check the temps at each fuel stop and see if extended drives change anything. (Just waiting for, see it was the crimps all along! Pretty crimps now and no issues, must be the crimps! lol)

Update time, the Efi Hardware bulkhead terminals are in. The quality of the kit is leaps and bounds better compared to the Efi Solutions/Taarks kit. I was not happy with the Taarks kit, however I am very happy with the Efi Hardware kit so far. Being able to torque down the plastic insulator is a huge help. The longer post and jam nuts also make life easier. I didn't bend the eyelet terminals 90 degrees to fit inside the bulkhead this time. I performed some surgery to the bulkhead to fit the terminals without bending them (in case the bend increased resistance in the terminal). Unfortunately I didn't have time to drive the car, but letting it idle for about 10 minutes and the power terminal went from about 13 degrees to 16 degrees. I'll update again after I've taken the car for a good shakedown to check temps. As promised, I have taken some photos so my crimps can be judged by all. Crimps were made with Delphi crimper (part number 12085271) Heat shrink is Raychem RW-200-E recovered at 170 degrees.

I assumed he would turbo it, blow up the gearbox, then put in a DET gearbox. Pretty much par for the course for new players lol.

Holy jesus christ! Yeah I would not be spending that on a piece of dinosaur technology. Surely you have plans to modify the car in future? You'll need an ECU very quickly on this modification journey anyway, way better money spent on the ECU rather then the MAF (that will end up in the bin anyway, even if it does work, once you install an aftermarket ECU. Just think how painful it will be for future you, throwing a working $700 part in the bin).

If an OEM MAF is expensive (I have no idea what they go for) I would strongly consider putting the money towards an aftermarket ECU and putting the MAF in the bin. Also, how do you know the car is running rich? Do you have a wideband o2 sensor setup?

@JC71 are still on the stock ECU?

You'd have more luck finding that out by contacting 3G Spares, rather then asking some randoms on the internet. Direct from their ad, "Complete Engine Motor Package" "OEM factory complete RWD RB25DET Neo turbo engine package" "Engine conversion package". I mean, you say you want to do an engine conversion. They say it's a complete engine conversion package... I can only assume you want what they have. But yeah, maybe just ask them if you have any concerns.

Not hard. It is a factory option for the car. If you are planning to do the swap yourself and you have to ask if it's hard or not, then it sounds like you will find it quite challenging to do. Does the budget allow for the purchase of a RB25DET gearbox at the same time? Life will be so much easier if you can swap both the motor and box together, and it's not like your saving yourself any money either, you WILL need the bigger box in future. By doing it now you will save time, money and you won't find yourself broken down at the most inconvenient time in the future.

Well not really, 2-step doesn't care if you have 1 or 2 turbos. It will function the same either way, it will let you build boost while stationary. You should be concerned, it will 100% hurt your engine in the long run. But you want to shoot flames and have crazy pops/bangs yeah? lol.

Sounds like all you want is a button on your CAN dash pad that is for 2-step / anti lag launch. Hold the button down, rev limit gets set to whatever you want, say 5000 rpm. Then mass timing is pulled and a heap of fuel is dumped in for fun times. Want more bangs and flames, pull more timing or add more fuel or both lol. Obviously the more you use the fun button, the shorter the life of the entire hot side of your motor. So valves, turbo, cat, any sensors in the exhaust, etc etc. Well, if you are using it for its intended purpose it is very rewarding. If you are at the drags and want to launch on full boost, how else are you going to do that?

I promise it will get done as soon as I can, but that is still probably 3 months away.

Ok, I've just ordered the high amp flanged kit from EFI Hardware. Once it's installed, I'll go for progressively longer/harder drives and I'll check the temp of the terminals with the heat gun. If there are any issues with temp, I'll drop in the Walbro 460 which should draw about 5 less amps and I'll repeat the process checking temps. Also I'll make sure to take some high res photos of my crimps this time =P

Just looking at the instructions for these Efi hardware terminals, is anyone able to explain to me why the diameter of the hole must be specifically between 8.1 and 8.2 mm? If the post is 6mm, and you drill say a 7mm hole, how could this possibly cause an issue? In any case, the more I read these instructions, the more I think I want to give them a go. https://www.efihardware.com/download/237/866-033_M6_Bulkhead_Terminal_High_Amp

Those exact ones, with the hex head on the plastic insulators and the metal flange?