donut_kng

Check that the RCA cables arent dodgy, not contacting properly, try another freash set run outside the car just to check. If your 100 percent sure that all the wiring is correct, I would just get another amp, I have had and known of people getting amps repaired, they still dont last that long afterwards!

I am after a set of straight BLACK (or GREY) front and rear floor mats for an R33 GTST, not Nismo ones as they have a different shape drivers mat. Will pay a good price if they are in good condition. Will swap my checkered factory skyline mats. Please Help me!!

Item Sold Payment pending, will PM you if frst buyer falls through

After recieving several PM's (apologies for not replying to some!) I have another light up boot panel which I had made previously and have been meaning to put on here for sale for a while. Its sprayed R33 Series II metalic Silver, I believe the code was KR4 or KP4, I cant rememeber exactly. It has been made so the panel looks standard during the day but light somes through at night. Quite the party trick! The panel does not come with the actual light, all you need to do is simply mount any colour of light (neon or LED) behind it and hook it up to your parkers or a switch. As you can see white is very effective gives no cop troubbles. The panel is is pretty good condition with only some minor imperfections in the paint as you can see on some of the angled shots, this is pretty subtle, and can be fixed anyways wth another light respray. Asking $150 + postage. Sydney. PM please

Just go pick and payless get 2 off an AU Falcon, cost you like $80, good if your just using them to fry.

the less conservative approach...

There you go..

As the topic says, I am after a standard shifter for an R33, possibly you guys who have changed to a short shifter could help. Located in Sydney, will pickup. please PM

what does unigroup charge

those things off sau and ebay arnt cold air intakes, they just shield the heat off the motor, i think people are afeter somethign which actually captures cold air and transfers it to the filter, like the kits that are available for late model commodores.

Ive been thinking about this to, although there isnt really anywhere to pass a pipe through unless you have a front mount leaving one of the stock holes free.

265's are wider than a 255 that will scrub and you say go for the 265? Typo Im guessing. Anyways I have gone back to the shop, and will be going for a 235/35 at the front and a 255/30 at the back, as the 265 on an 8 inch rim has been said to be a little "unstable", if I have to roll the guards the shop has offered to do it inclusive in the price as they are very confident they wont scrub. The spacer issues should be solved by some 5mm spacers, if it needs more then that I will take some off the calliper as otherwise they will start sticking out a bit!

Just a few quick ones some people may be able to help me with.. Does anyone know what the offest is on a standard R33 wheel? The wheels I am looking at buying are 19x8, they come in 2 offsets: a 35P and a 45P, which would be the best for a GTS-T? Due to the nature of the spokes on these wheels, I have been told that I will need to run spacers at the front (about 5mm thick I think) Do im thinking that I may be able to avoid this with my offest choice, but at the same time I dont want wheels sticking out, ripping and rubbing the guards. << this is my maine dilemma! I was also planning to put 265's or 255's at the back and 225s at the front. Any help appreciated

Ive got DR-33-GT and a mate of mine has MR-33-GT,

That would be awesome mate, it looks as if you've done somthing to your fog lamps as well? They dont look normal. Looks mean as anyways. I went to a headlamp speacialist to get the clear lense removed without breaking it, and I have found a clear lense which will do the job, although I'm curious to see how you guys went about it, expecially PIG GTS, as I said, looks like you've done something different to yours that makes it look meaner... Anxiously awaiting the tutorial!

Stock R33 GTS-T Exhaust system, great insurance in the case of a defect, good conditon. $50, Sydney pickup/delivery upon negotiation.

How do they compare next to the Turbosmart item?

So did you get the one with the 1mm hole in it? Thats the best one is it? I have a turbosmart manual boost controller I scored off a mate, are the Turbosmart ones better then the $25 item?

dyken: Its not engine noise, its a hissing noise that happens when the car is not running Ok, I have completly pulled out the fusion amp sub setup and the system is now fine again. So I am assuming that the RCA's which I used for the extra amp were picking up the noise and sending it through the whole lot. Ill paly with different sets of RCA's, etc. I'll sort it out once I have finished spraying and trimming all my fibreglass bits, as long as I know what the porblem area is now it should be easy to fix once I get to that point. Thanks for the help

To test this, can I take a piece of 1 or 2mm wire and connect the outer sheld of the RCA's with an earth point? What would be a permanent way of doing this?

Heres another noise/hiss problem everyone hates which has just decided to appear in my sound system. Heres how the story goes.. Installed in my 33 is a Kenwood TV/DVD screen 6" splits at the front, 6x9's in the rear all running off a Kenwood 4 channel amp. Recently I have been doing some trialing of my Fusion sub and amp setup just to test whether the size of the box is good or if there are any leaks in my fibreglass box. As soon as I hooked up the sub and amp, I have now found a faint but annoying hissy whining noise coming through the 4 in cabin speakers mentioned above. The amp for the sub is separate, as well as all the wiring. The only thing I have tapped into off the other amp is the remote/ignition wire, everything else is independant. I believe that it could possibly be the RCA cable for the 4 speakers as when they are disconnected, whilst the system it on, the noise stops. Also when I put a noise filter inline with the RCA's the noise also stops. I do not want to resort to using filters as the system worked fine before and also they reduce sound quality as I have dsicover through experience. All RCA leads are out of sight of power cables even more so when the setup was working perfectly. My next step will be to remove the complete sub and amp setup and see if the noise disappears, untill then, does anyone have any ideas on how to stop this for when I do the final fit on my subs and amps?

A fuel cap off nearly any car will fit. I lost mine a while back and took one off a VS commodore at the wreckers.

After not driving my R33 for over 2 months due to loss of licence, took it out today only to notice that I have a slight power steering fluid leak. Just wondering what type of fluid is suitable for an R33 and whats a good brand to go for ?

Im keen as mustard.. a date needs to be set so I can get the day off work!

thanks guys