4DoorWhore

so i picked up this pair... now im wondering how to mount it... is there a 1 DIN holder i can buy somewhere? i really dont wanna just stick it up on the dash? anybody have any example pics? Blitz SBC i-D and POWER METER i-D

oh i totally agree you need aero to go with it... yeah i think the FK one is just a stock lip... anybody got one of those?

anybody....

where can i get those plugs... got a pic...

quick question bit off topic... but why on some occasions do i see people use the TBO rubber caps to cap off the BOV and the BOV outlet piping.

ahh thanks monkey... i looked but i guess i need to make note of the word "Ute" next time i search haha...

All i know is it was a former 4-door, has a Toyota truck bed in it... made by Nats OSTY oh actually i found some more stuff.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fWDg06O_fhQ ok i guess, my question is what are your thoughts... "sorry if its a repost"

where can i order one thats fitted to the car?

yuck.... NEXT...

i had a R34 cop pass me the other day on the Wangan... but besides that just seen the regular crowns.. and motorcycles...

interesting thanks Mad, i have been doing some testing also and pretty much confirming most of your notions. to properly crush a bov use a bench-vise. it works to crush it perfectly semetrical, crush it until the outlet pipe is flush with the top of the hat, in better words, when the pipe touchs the hat your good.

is anybody willing to sell me an oem nissan skyline cover?? im in need of one within the next month or so.. and i hear they came with some skylines... for an R32 4 door 2 door doesnt matter there pretty close in size so it should be fine.

honestly i didnt mess with drilling and capping... in the past i have only used the crush-mod. So read and heed what mad082 has to say thanks for the feedback on this. ill look into the other mod more in depth..... i have access to alot of the jap shops out here so ill check around.

This Tech Article is more a primer to give more information of the workings of a RB20DET (possibly more RB motors) and the two common mods used to improve upon it's design to sustain higher boost levels without leaking. I've included links to the Tech articles covering these mods in more detail. Background: A BOV acts to release boost pressure between the turbo and throttle body when the throttle plate is shut. This is good for two reasons: 1.) With the pressure released the turbo will continue to spin freely = better transitional boost response (quick spool btw gear changes) 2.) The pressurized air would otherwise hit the closed throttle plate and like an ocean wave, reverse course making it’s way back to the compressor causing it to abruptly slow, possibly causing damage to the wheel. The 1G BOV while infinitely better than the crappy plastic 2G valves, is still an OEM piece that was never intended to boost much above stock levels (13psi) and will leak at higher boost levels. It is important to first see how a BOV works to figure out how to improve upon it. The below pic (minus the air fittings on the mounting flange) are of a 1G BOV. The “top hat” section of the BOV contains a diaphragm and spring which is used to raise/lower a valve at the bottom based on air pressure on either side of the diaphragm combined with the spring tension. The Blue lines represent airflow from the UIP and the Red line airflow from the behind the throttle plate. The BOV in stock form uses both air pressures to operate the BOV. When under boost (throttle plate open), the Red and Blue pressures are equal and the BOV’s valve will remain closed based solely on the top hat's internal spring pressure (well until too much boost force on the valve itself overcomes the springs tension and pushes it open). When the throttle closes (btw gear shifts when you let off the gas pedal), the air pressure in the UIP remains positive (Blue), but the air pressure behind the throttle plate goes to negative (Red). This is what helps the BOV to “quick release” as you have complementary forces (pull=Red /push=Blue) at work to open the valve. This is all good at OEM boost levels, but once you turn the boost up, the pressure inside the UIP can force the BOV valve itself to unseat (blow it open), much like what happens to an upgraded 38mm wastegate flapper if the actuator is not strong enough. When this happens, you are loosing boost pressure, which the turbo will have to work harder (faster RPMs, more heat, less efficient) to maintain. If you are running 18psi at the intake and you are loosing 2psi from the BOV, your turbo is actually running at 20psi (well more due to pressure drop across the IC/Piping but that’s fodder for another tech article ) Dodge Garage Mod? The Dodge Garage mod seeks to block the Blue line (UIP Pressure) so that only the Red line (Intake pressure/Vacuum) influences the BOV operation. So now instead of equal pressures above/below the BOV diaphragm under boost, only the top section (Red) from the intake is being fed, so you have additional downward pressure on the BOV valve equal to the boost pressure you are running. More pressure = more boost can be run before the spring/valve is overrun. To do this, this mod involves "plugging" the inlet on the bottom of the BOV flange (JB Weld) that fed the underside of the diaphram with air pressure, and drilling a hole in the original passageway to relieve any pressure from the underside of the BOV diaphram. I took this a step further and drilled a second hole on the opposite side the original boost feed and again in the flange to give me the the option to have "quick release" if I ever wanted it (which I haven't). Connecting the two new air tubes will give me OEM BOV operation. Crushing: "Crushing" the BOV just means sticking the piece in a vice and pressing the top had down causing the internal spring to shorten and increase pressure on the BOV valve. Warning, crushing too much will prevent the BOV from opening enough/at all and will cause boost surge. I crush mine so the boost nipple is flush with the middle tier of the top hat (as far as it will go without bending the nipple) and holds well to 25psi Combining both these mods will elevate the boost threshold even further any additional info is welcomed as i still consider myself new to RB motors

in the summer time Run 50-50 half Water and half Redline "Water Wetter" nothing works better in the summer i promise you. %30 cooler than anything out there.

Just preparing for the worst, because my car may be sitting for a certain period of time, longer than i like, im assuming months. i want one that can stand most the elements mainly rain and sun, and in combination moisture. a lock is not necessary, easy storage is a plus.. just wanna know if anybody has any leads on a good website? thanks

thanks

yeah id recomend 8k 6k if your a daily driver kind of person. But we are talking about drift setups here right? the 12k 10k feel great street and track, but then again japans streets are like the tracks so take that into part. as for body wear, that is true, but polyurethane or solid bushings, maybe a roll-cage and stitch welding down the line and your set.

or once again go to the hardware store and buy a pipe of some-kind to fit over the end of the spanner handle (which ever you decide to get) and wah-lah more leverage.

payed $175 for a pair of front Teins on yahoo.jp they came with 12k springs im very happy. they ride great on the street and even better on the touge. i do have a 26.5mm sway on the front also, and 10k's on the rear. but yeah the teins are super..

also try the plumbing section of the hardware store, seriously there like a third of the price. putting the shock in a bench-vise helps also.. just remember not to clamp on the casing, damaging this will f**k your shock up, clamp at the bottom like where the bolt goes through and attaches it to the lower control arm... but once you got it in the vise you can go to town on it... with your c-spanners and such...

whats the conversion rwkw to rwhp??

well yeah if you think about it in leagalities. but then insurance prolly wouldnt cover anything else on my car either. but then thats not the case in japan. but honestly i doubt insurance can even tell the difference between the two bars.

anybody seen the headlights on yahoo auction japan. the ones that are all mesh with a small round light in the corner... ill try to find a pic... found it.. guess i should ask does anybody have them, and have a better pic?