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Sambo33gtst

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Everything posted by Sambo33gtst

  1. Probably not the best area, but ah well. Depends on the type of BOV mate. Standard (factory) blow off valves are generally plumback, which as a rule generally means less noise pollution. It's when you start putting aftermarket Atmospheric blow off valves on your car when things start to go bad. Atmo BOVs i know are illegal in most states. Best bet is a hybrid imo
  2. Lvl 60 Paladin on Tichondrius - Clerion Lvl 60 Mage on Frostmourne - Frozenova Guild cleared ZG/AQ20 - Cleared MC and BWL - Up to Twin Emps in AQ40. Currently 80% of guild attuned for Naxx
  3. I should be attending. My car goes in for a full forged engine rebuild today and im told it will be at least a few weeks, so hopefully ill be there with bells on!
  4. I have recently upgraded on my 33 from the stock bov to the GFB 1004 Basic atmo bov. I get a backfire sometimes, but it shoots flames so meh....never stalled, never dropped revs, nothing. I had a fabricator make up a custom flange and gasket for my bov so it fits perfectly...none of these shitty turbosmart flanges u get from autobarn...
  5. I get fuel on the my rear bar, it happens when i speed. flames also petrude from my exhaust at that same time.
  6. Hmmm, tough one. I actually don't know the answer to this one. However, with an engine swap, even if it is the same type of engine....there is about 6 numbers proceeding the rb26dett part of it that make it unique to the car's VIN/Chassis number...soo with that, it'd be borderline. I think u'd get away with it.
  7. Bro mine had that sticker to, but had another one stuck over the top of it saying that my timing was done @ 93.xxx km's...i ripped it off, and got it done again. And sure enough it was bullsh!t...get ur timing checked man...as far as im concerned theyre not legit.
  8. I just did this mod (it was the black wire) and i could tell straight away, feels so much stronger down low. This is in a series 1 Funny thing is, i was at work and we had a sparky doing our securty system, he did pretty much all of it for me...and when i got back from a strap, he said he'd done it for 2 other 33's hahaha !
  9. don't need a mod plate for wheels no. to get a roadworthy, make sure its definately been complied to ADR standards, and if ur mate is a mechanic and can do u a safety cert, then you should have no worries. But as always, just be careful.
  10. Yep, it would be very wise to get him to do the mod plate as a condition of sale to you. (if it is needed) Because this way, he (the seller) knows what he is getting the mod plate(s) for. Whereas he could just tell you what he has done, you go get the mod plate for that, he has missed something he has modded, gets left out, and you may get pinned for it down the track if u you go to make an accident claim. It seems like a whole lot of jargen, running around and heaps of conflicting stories...but its totally worth it, if you take ur time and do everything correct the first time. Let us know if you run into any troubles.
  11. Ok, you will not need a mod plate if the compliance was done to that engine code. To check if the compliance was done correctly you will need to get in contact with DOTARS, look em up on the web And like i said before, u dont need a personal import plate unless u were the registered owner of the car in japan or wherever.
  12. Please please get a full mechanical inspection done first!!
  13. ok if it was imported under dotars, and has been complied under the 15 year ruling. You do not need a mod plate, nor do u need a personal import plate. at all. nothing. You should be able to drive it up for inspection, theyll check the vin# and engine # to the compliance stamping, and register the car. Like i said, a personal import plate is only needed if you owned the car in japan previously, moved to aus, then imported the car yourself. You don't need one. I got told the same story when i went to rego my 33. All you need to take to the inspection are as follows: Car. Safety Cert (roadworthy). Import Approval Papers. Invoice proving u have paid your Qld CTP Insurance (go to an AAMI branch - should cost you $290) once they have inspected the car, you will then pay registration fees and stamp duty...normally around $600-$700)
  14. Hey mate, Half the time the queensland transport have no idea what they are talking about in regards to imports and under what scheme it was brought into australia through. A personal import plate is only required when the car WAS owned by the person importing it in the country of origin for 12 or more months. So first off ask the owner whether that was the case (if he owned it in japan first) Im putting money on the case that he bought the car through a broker or privately in japan, imported it, complied it, and has not registered it for one reason or another. This means he imported it under the SEVS ruling, meaning it has to undergo compliancing to ADR specifications...to check this, pop the bonnet, and somewhere in the engine bay should be a 10cmx8cm purple plate with the chassis/VIN number and engine number on it along with a few other things, this is the compliance plate. And if thats there, then all that is needed is a roadworthy/safey certificate for that car, the Queensland CTP insurance to be paid, and you can then register it. Mod plate wise...i dont see why it should need a mod plate. Considering it has been complied, it should have been brought back to standard ready for registration. If it has been changed back to have a lot of aftermarket parts, or whatever...then maybe ull need a mod plate. But i dont see why you should at all need one. But yeah, id be cautious is to why he has imported, complied it...and is now selling it..? Get a FULL mechanical inspection before handing over the cash!! Any questions or ur not clear on what i just said, let me know EDIT: Also, make sure you get the original papers for Import Approval for the car, AND the papers for deregistration in Japan. However dereg wont be too important seeing its already been complied. Just be very careful.
  15. Still for sale, open to reasonable offers. pm me
  16. Hi guys, My 1994 White R33 Skyline is now up for sale. I am the first owner in australia, love the car but just stuck financially already I am starting a new uni course next year and will need a cheap run around, thus why it is up for sale. Specs: Model: ECR33 M Spec Year: 94 Engine: RB25DET Km's: 119,xxx Colour: White Interior Condition: Very Good. Exterior Condition: All metal panels are staight and very clean. Front bar has few scuff marks, rear bar has pint dent with touch up done. All in all quite good condition. Location: Sunshine Coast, Qld. ------------------------------------------- Mods: Car is fairly well standard. However it does include: -Volk 17" Racing GT-7A Rims -Trust 3inch Catback exhaust with Stainless Tip -GReddy Trust Turbo Timer -Autotechnica Wheel and Shift Knob Also have a turbosmart dual stage boost controller that is not connected, but will sell with car if wanted. The car is complied to ADR Standards with the Compliance Plate, and a full safety and roadworthy certificate are available upon request. Pics: Price: $15,500. Any queries or questions or want a test drive, I am contactable on 0422103906, email enquiries to sam@pcplace.com.au or add me to msn on sam_douglas86@hotmail.com PM me for anything else. Please, serious buyers only. Trades may be considered.
  17. I just found that out! E.G: iridium plugs, splitfire coilpacks.
  18. Yeh i realised that it was a law over there but god damn its annoying >.< im gonna re-do the whole car once the bank balance recovers
  19. There are pics now I was at work yesterday when i was uploading them, but then my boss came in and he hates seeing me on forums haha, so i had to close firefox real quick Enjoy the pics at the top of the page!
  20. lol, f**k tyrekickers. if ur a business i have CC details right now. if not, i got DD access. EDIT: cancel that, power bill just arrived.
  21. still for sale?
  22. Nice 33's boys, frikken hot. Here is my baby.
  23. Steering Wheel and Knob SOLD to Blitz_Boy - Pending Payment. Please close thread.
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