tsterls

Hi mate, Are you still selling the g sensor? Thanks

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Hey mate, Do you still have the g sensor, or did it go off during the accident? Cheers

Hi I'm after 2 things. The first is a standard r32 sterling wheel. Not sure if I need a special one because of the hicas. Just needed for a rwc. The second is the g sensor for my atessa. My mechanic said that it was Error code 13. Cheers.

Hi, I'm planning on getting some drift teks for my R32 GTS4 in 17 x 9 +35 size all round. I have been told that a spacer is required to fit the 18" Drift Teks over the R32 front brakes due to the spoke design, does anyone know from experience if this is the same for the 17 x 9's? Cheers Tom

Hi, Did you have to modify the guards to make them fit? Any scrub issues? Cheers

have you got front front upper control arms, third links, lower control arms and castor rods for both left and right?

Still after these parts if anyone has them.

Hi, I am after r32 gtr/gts4 front suspension arms for both left and right. In particular the upper control arms and the third link but I will buy lower control arms and castor rods aswell if the price is right. Not sure if i have all the names right so i am after the red and purple arms for both sides and maybe the yellow and blue. I am located in melbourne. Cheers Tom

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Hey i have just had a small accident in my r32 gts4 and i have broken my castor rod. I have a friend with a spare 32gts castor rod and im wondering if they are the same, so i could just change them over? cheers tom

Hi, I'm after a standard cat from a Skyline, with 2.5" inlet/outlet (I'm led to believe that's correct) Would prefer one that isn't totally shagged out/collapsed etc. I'm located in Melbourne North/East. Don't really want to pay too much for it, as its just to knock up an exhaust for another car. Anyone got one lying around? Thanks

Tried that, but I now have a feeling that maybe the springs in the centre of the clutch might of been taking up all the movement I was putting in, coz the engine was returning back to its original position when I released the force, so i'll try to turn it further This sounds like it might just be crazy enough to work

Hi I am just wondering if there is a special way to remove the water pump in my RB20 R32? So far I have taken off the alternator, p/s, and ac belts, and removed the top cambelt cover. i've also taken off the clutch fan and removed the radiator to give myself some more room. My next problem is that I think I need to remove the bottom timing belt cover, which i've undone, but can't get it out because of the Main engine pulley being in the way. I can't get the main engine pulley off because the engine is turning over, even with the car in gear and on the ground. To stop the engine turning over I think I need to block the ring gear, which means I'd have to remove the starter motor. I'm finding it really hard to believe that I have to remove my starter motor to change my water pump. Is this correct? Is there something that I'm missing? Or another way to do it? Beacuse i'm having incredible difficulty even getting the starter motor out, the car is a GTS4 and there is alot of crap down there making it hard. Sorry for the long post, does anyone have any insight or guidance on how to overcome all of my problems? Thanks

As topic states, i am interested in knowing what my rear diff actually is? i have tried to search this site and have found nothing but confliciting statements. im so sick of single spinners. Is the factory rear diff in this car a viscous (like the gtst) or like the gtr a mechanical diff. My car is a 1993 manual turbo r32 gts4. thanks

PM's sent to both of you. Can anybody else help me out? Doesn't need to be S2, just need a 33 turbo in good working order. Cheers

Wanted r33 turbo, preferably series 2 in melbourne. cheers

As the topic says, I'm after the 2 fuel regulators to replace the ones that are on my S2 R32 RB20DET. Hoping they can help me track down this lack of power. Thanks in Advance Tom edit: Just worked out that the second thing that I thought was a regulator is actually the damper. I just need the reg, in melb preferrably.

Does the fuel rail have 2 regulators on it? (like a S2 R32), or only 1? (S1) If 2, I'll give $15+delivery for them Tom

Thanks, but I no longer need one. I Bought an 040 from Greg at justsr.com. Great service considering he had the day off sick and still let me come and get it.

NO LONGER REQUIRED, THANKS

time for an update. on thursday i cleaned my afm and acc. i also changed my fuel filter. while doing all this i found that one of the hoses on the second fuel reg was not pluged in (the one on the end of the fuel rail, it runs into the return. is this standard??) pluged that in, also tried to check the base timing and got about 8 degrees advanced, we thought this must be wrong as it should be about 15. turned motor off and since then havn't been able to get the revs back down to 650rpm. all that aside after cleaning and replacing the fuel filter took it for a spin. was great, pulled up to 7grand, afr's were more normal (dropped down to low 12's high 11's underboost. still thought they would be lower) car made a few werid noises but nothing savage. Then when starting it on friday it was back to normal. it didn't feel like it was accelerating after 4500rpm. i checked the compression which was 145 plus or minus 5 across the board (is this low??). i ran the ecu codes off the back of the ecu, they gave me 55. it also told me my 02 sensor was fried, but i believe this isn't a performance part. any one got anyideas, today i plan to borrow my mates afm and see how that goes. ill keep ya posted.

thanks guys, yeah the only reason i posted was a mate has a gts4 aswell and he gets 350's. The 200 to 250 is keeping it off boost. which is odd. My mates car also accelerates up to 7k where as mine doesn't. im going to check the base timing tomorrow and also clean the afm, aac valve etc. thought i should just check what everyone thought before i spent to money on a dyno run, lol im to cheap. im expecting about mid to high 80's at the rears. What is standard i have read about 116kw. is this true? thanks

Hi I am new here and recently bought a r32 gts 4. It is just doing a couple of wired things and I wanted to try and diagnose it before going to get it dyno’d. The first issue is cold starts. It doesn’t like to start when cold. It seems if I let the fuel pump fully prime it will turnover off the starter motor and then the revs will just fall from there to stall, if I give the throttle a pump it will pick up to 1000 rpm and then idle fine. The second issue is top end power it seems to run out. It continues to rev but doesn’t pull like it does when it comes on boost. It feel like it stops pulling after like 5000rpm. IT also doesn’t seem to have much go bottom end. Like it wont pull up hills in second if under 2500rmp.It is a completely stock rb20det with a very quiet 3” turbo back exhaust. I have compression tested it and got between 145 and 150 across the board. Boost is running at 12psi, tested the afr’s just tonight and was getting 15’s at idle and would push down to mid 13’s on boost. Reset the ecu and then it pushed down to 13flat. Haven’t quite tried everything yet but am almost sure that it is spark related. Just wondering if any of you guys have any ideas. Any input would be greatly appreciated. I am also getting exremely bad fuel economy. in the order of 200km to 250km from 45L. Not sure if that makes any difference. Thanks Tom