kristafa

Turbos SOLD ECU SOLD wiring loom still available make me an offer. Chris.

Cleaning out the shed, few things to go to good homes. Pickup Greenbank or ship to Aus.. pricing below. Chris 0422 933 217 HKS GT-SS Turbos Equivalent to Garrett 2860-9, good for ~300kw with good response. 713255-93 tagged on the cores. Good condition, minimal shaft play, come as pictured. $1500 pickup or ship for another $65 w/insurance. GTR Engine Harness from R32 Complete but has a broken ECU plug $50 pickup or ship for $10 GTR Stock ECU R32 Works fine $50 pickup or ship for $10

go cut up a star picket or something thinner, try welding on that first.. at least you know it'll be unplated mild steel at school we used to weld on 8-10mm plate and it definitely flowed pretty well so i'd question the material you're welding on

Guys, i'm looking for just the crotch strap for a takata harness.. or a reasonably priced 5-point harness (to mount to harness bar) Let me know what's out there.. needed fairly urgently thanks, Chris 0422 933 217

Door cards/then powdercoated: Custom fixed seatrails - raw ally:

EVO Cam covers shaved, -10 fittings, powdercoat, custom alloy coilpack cover w/custom ID plate:

EVO 3-point Strut braces, manifold heatshield:

hi guys, I've already posted a few things we've made in the past, i'll try just keep it to one thread now.. here's what i've put together recently that just got back from the powdercoater.. Rear wing: Strut brace, power steering reservoir, catch can: Will update thread as we make more

dropping the price to $150 + postage..!!

only 3 weeks until the july 7 ruzic test day!! is it ready to put back together now, aside from engine?

i dropped my oil into a bucket through a strainer, told me right away if it was bearing failure, which it was. looked like someone had chucked stripper glitter into my oil filler.

bump any offers?

Removing and fitting larger valve seats to fit oversize valves

exhaust ports before/after intake ports before/after

mark can i post up Will's work on the head porting? got a couple of pics..

1. genuine GReddy RB26 timing cover, clear, unused perfect nick 2. red rb cam gears to suit any rb (rb25 will only use 1 of them though..) replaced bolts with quality stainless ones, they feel like decent quality items, machined steel outer, machined alloy inner all brand new, unused, sell together for $200 express posted sell seperately for: cam gears $90 + postage timing cover $120 + postage selling because wont be using them now pickup available from brisbane, southside. PM me or 0422 933 217 thanks.. Chris. pics..

Thanks brad.. Is there a revised PDF yet?

thanks for the help guys.. Harry, plan isn't to win, plan is to stay on the track and have a great time! Secured a local sponsor yesterday for tyres, so cost shouldn't be a problem anymore, big weight lifted off my shoulders there! Hoping to see a set of dz03g's or hankook z221 which apparently are also a great tyre - but at the end of the day i'll be very grateful for anything..

thanks for the tips Duncan, i'm also hoping to bring a spare set of semi's down with me.. are r888's really as bad as *some* of the reports? what happens do they just heat up too much and become useless or what? pretty excited only 10 weeks left!

harry, seat time is always an issue being so busy and driver improvement is always in the crosshair. I really should update my sig since thats the old rb20 setup which has been gone a few years now :| Richard I was hoping you would comment here your knowledge on different tracks and setups (in other sau threads) hasn't gone unnoticed! I'll digest what you've said, but I just wanted to know what to expect really which you've covered nicely, will you be at WTAC for consultation.. or perhaps racing..? sounds like more than anything i'll have to make sure i have ample courage pills for the event..! cheers

Hi guys, we'll be competing at world time attack, eastern creek later this year and would like to ask a few of the frequenter's to EC what we could expect from the track.. I've only ever raced up here at QR on the sprint and clubman tracks which i've found asks alot from the tyres and brakes (which are likely to be the biggest factors at any track mind you), i've watched alot of youtube onboard vid's of guys tracking EC just to get an idea of the way to attack it and perhaps gets a feel how my car might respond to some of the conditions. Has someone done an article on EC before that might be worth reading? currently my car is setup fairly soft (6/8kg, soft swaybars, mild dampening) which seems to feel good at QR since the track surface is full of 'character'.. Its a E36 bmw with rb26 so not much like anything else out there which is going to be hard to get an idea of the setup we should bring, so that's why my question is more aimed at the track and not how to setup a skyline, etc for EC thanks guys any info on how to drive this track would be great! evo nats was at EC on the weekend and i heard a couple of them came to grief, just hoping to stay away from any nasties during my visit.. cheers, Chris

I've witnessed this happening, tucked the powerfc back into the footwell after a tune and it started happening, after a while of checking a few things it turned out re-seating the connector to the powerfc sorted it out.. it was like revving it shook the connector and made it work for a while then it worked loose again.. worth a try considering its free!

i bought a pair of "OZSOME" 5-bolt ones they arrived yesterday $100 inc postage thanks again ebay.. the bolts provided do really look pretty crap so i've taken one off to get measured up for replacement at my local QES.. most likely stainless with a flat washer will be going back in the gears themselves are machined steel outer with a cnc machined alloy inner, the quality doesn't look too bad in all honesty, there is alot of meat in them and i can't see an obvious weakness just yet but will report once in use.. the contact area for the bolts to clamp down on is a full circle, which would indicate ALOT of torsion would be required to let it 'slip' out of its set degree position. the contact area where the belt would go doesn't have burrs/sharp edges or anything that would cause a mechanical failure of the belt. the timing marking are also quite clear and finely laser engraved. sure i wouldn't put these on my forged big $$ project, but mine is a clunker from back when paul keating was in power.. so i'm happy to give them 1/2 a chance.. Chris

Just let the accusump discharge fully (pre lube) into the sump with sump plug out.., all that will be left in the line is a few hundred ml's.. Disconnect and blow into it if you want that last bit out.

mine is installed in the boot.. [distance of 3.2m of -10 braid] i emailed Canton and they said this is fine, so long as the pressure actuator/valve is still installed in the normal position on the outlet of the accusump. the braid is secured under the car - the problem i saw with mounting in the cabin is the fact you have hot oil sitting there in a pressurised state (also the reason why i didn't want it mounted in my front bar) after a couple of cycles there will be no air in the system Chris EDIT: i also went with the Moroso check valve (so oil goes straight through your engine, and isn't pumped back through the oil cooler) and the Moroso accumulator mounts http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=13600 Got these from Performance wholesale in QLD for about $80 for both, they can post as they order from their Sydney warehouse anyway