kristafa

Just bought a new autometer Air/Fuel Ratio gauge and installed it into my rb20det bmw. The gauge shows that i'm running stoich when the car is warm, but it's about 2 led's away from running lean.. Should my car be running in the middle of stoich (12 o'clock)?? When i rev the car, it seems to stay around that same area, it never really enters the lean section, or rich section (though the car has only been running with this new engine for a week, drove it for the first time last night).. I'm scared even though it's showing stoich, that it's a bit to close to the lean area. any help appreciated, thanks.

any hoses that came from your wastegate would have melted a long time ago... the hose that comes from the wastegate actuator will only go to one place, cut it, put your controller inline. c h r i s

how much $$$?

doing a conversion, my bmw has electronic speedo, r32 (gtst) box has cable driven speedo. I also know that the ECU is aware of the wheel speed - i assume that this is through another sensor in the final drive. Down in the gearbox there is a plug which would be for reverse lights.. basically i need as much information as possible.. i am thinking of buying an apexi rev/speed meter to take over from my bmw speedo.. this would wire into the ecu that gets the signal from the gearbox? Please help: * I dont know too much about the 32 gear box, and what sensors exist in there.. * I need to know what speed my car is doing * can i get a signal converter from somewhere to convert the cable to a digital interface so i can keep the bmw speedo working * I need reverse lights can anybody advise a solution for this saga ??? - thanks. chris.

to all you long shooters: 1. My front cut body IS available for chopping! so bring your angle grinder and you can have the tunnel, whatever you need 2. I dont have the radiator.. it's a front cut, but this front cut has had a nose clip already (so everything forward of the motor was already gone when i bought it) 3. The interior of the car was in A1 condition and i pulled it all apart, alot of those little components like you pictured are still sitting in the dash area (and the dash is already out, making it easier to get to).. So come around and get that piece you need). Thanks all for your enquiries... chris. Update: ***** Steering rack is FARKED *****

***** SOLD ***** engine crossmember and engine mounts sold, pending payment brake master cylinder sold, pending payment *****

sorry folks, as ad says, no suspension/braking/steering components available (apart from steering rack).

lots of questions but no sales as yet - it all has to go so make me some offers..

PM SENT Pedal box isn't complete anymore, since sold the brake pedal (pedal only)- apart from that i have everything that comprises a pedal box. pm me if ur still interested. chris.

PM... sent i pitty the fool!

sorry front cuts only have from the A pillar forward, cut through just behind the end of the tranny.

NV N01: yes this is the gearbox crossmember pictured, but also have available the steering rack/crossmember assembly which the engine mounts bolt to. ReQuieM: Thanks dont need calipers.

it's not the circlip that is the concern, i can compress that with my needle nose pliers without much difficulty.. the clip i'm talking about is the one i have drawn below: it looks like a piston ring and is the same thickness as the circlip but slightly larger diameter... cheers, chris.

hey, i've looked through people's how-to's on installing short shifters, etc.. but i haven't been able to find anything about putting a standard shifter back in place. this question is for an rb20det manual gearbox. there 2 clips, one that looks like a standard circlip, and the other looks like a piston ring from my cbr250 (but i'm sure it's not). The circlip seems to be a smaller diameter than the hole it sits in. my guess is that the piston ring lookalike is meant to sit in the recessed groove in the wall of the shift holder to hold down the plastic bushes or whatever you call em. BUT HOW DO YOU COMPRESS IT ENOUGH TO PUT IT IN THERE? taking it out was simple from memory - so simple i thought to myself i wont even have to take note on how to put this bloody thing back together - WRONG! any responses will be rewarded APPRECIATED MUCHLY! cheers, chris.

PM SENT RE: LOG Books - i'll find out how much to post and decide from there. thanks for your enquiries.

Hi all selling some parts left over from my conversion... LOCATION: BRISBANE ***** Please make an offer if you feel i have misjudged an items value, if your keen to buy, then i'm keen to sell ***** All parts sold as is - as pictured It all came from a front cut of r32 with 87kms on it (log books to prove!!), most stuff looks and feels in pretty good condition, though i can't really test alot of things because i never drove it. I can arrange postage if required at buyers expense. No suspension/brakes/panels/lights available, sorry. Gearbox crossmember (no rubber mount) and Engine Mounts (one mount rubber is no good, the other is destined to end up that way), but the metal brackets are fine. $120 ono Speedo with 87kms on it - perfect condition $120 ono Dashboard (no cracks in middle vents, some vinyl lifting up around passenger side, 2 cracked fins in front demister, no other signs of damage/aging) $100 ono Other Parts available: AC Blower fan $30 Steering column $30 Steering Rack $80 Brake Booster $40 Clutch Master Cylinder $50 Accelerator Pedal $10 Wiper motor $10 Wipers $10 Fuse box $10 Air Conditioning pump $50 Original Log Books $20 Climate Control Screen $20 (no surround for face, just the unit itself) Stock intercooler + piping $60 some cables, hoses, stuff like that from $1 ono! and more stuff.. The whole remaining FRONT CUT (remember i took the motor/ecu/tranny), including everything above $300 (ono), pickup. Other little bits of pieces that may be of use to some of you, pm me to ask about anything or call me on 0422 933 217. Chris.

not sure if this has been asked yet, but does the single filter relocation kit have the 2 plug holes for oil psi and oil temp sensors? if yes, sign me up plz.

hey i reckon hire a fitting for your air compressor - sand blaster.. that will strip right back to metal then hit it right away with some quality primer (dont touch the bare metal, you'll rust it immediately).. for a cheap job just use an enamel paint, then a clear over the top of it.. 4lt of enamel will be around 100 from memory - just mix with ur thinners (just buy a 20lt drum of thinners.. not too dear). wont look like a $4000 job, but take your time with it.. do the door jams/boot/small bits first and then focus on the panels, it shouldn't look too bad

thanks to all, just bought gtr rad from forum member. cheers, chris.

have posted a wtb topic in classifieds, thought i might try here and see if anyone can help, need an r32 radiator and top/bottom hoses in good condition (and overflow bottle if available too). Will be used for a conversion in progress. Even a busted radiator might help - for the right price, so i can do a test fit and fabricate the mounts. many thx.

anybody have an r32 radiator lying around. i'm in brisbane and keen to pick up asap. Anybody who can provide measurements of the std radiator please also help.. this is for a conversion in progress.. ta, kris.

plz, anyone?

dont hold your breate looking for what you want... i've had my nose in ads for months looking for r32 bits and pieces where i finally found a decent front cut.. i think the best thing your gonna get is somebody selling a working one unreg'd with heaps of k's on it real cheap.. when we use r32's for the motor, we generally get the front cuts, not the whole shell, so i can't imagine there's too many shells about.

i have one, pm sent

putting an rb20det into my 3 series, and just tonight we went to put the motor in, and much to our disgrace the sump on the rb20 in on the front.. more to the point, it's right in the way of where my steering rack and swaybar is on the bmw.. does anyone know of a rear sump that would fit the rb20, short of having to refab the old one?? any help appreciated. ta.