kristafa

Toyo R1-R 225/40/18, spent $350/corner from memory. dry 9/10 wet 9/10 value 7/10 I've used the same tyres for 18 months (the car was off the road for half of that though), so i've put about 10,000km on them and they still look new. Did a trackday with these too, nice for a couple of laps then they get pretty hot and slide around alot. But for a street tyre, without a doubt the best i've had. Really soft compound but like i said they still look new and still perform outstanding on the road in wet or dry, hard to push them to understeer or oversteer around roundabouts or tight turns they always do what is asked of them and stays planted - warm OR cold didn't give them a 10, same thing with rating female, hard to give full points without knowing the whole field chris

Thanks stao, no noise comes from the actuator and it holds pressure.. Think its resolved now, thanks all.

Yeh cheers. The test was done with the arms detached from the wastegate, seems i've fixed it tonight, the vac nipple on the actuator was likely damaged in the mail, i thought i bent it straight again but still was a bit misaligned, got it nice and straight with pliers and now the arm moves unrestricted and in unison with the other actuator.. Not sure why this would affect its operation, but seems to work well, again using the compressor and air reg, they both start to open from 5-7psi and fully open around 10 which i think sounds right..? I love these cars!! Back to the dyno now. christo.

car is fitted with stock turbos/actuators, rear one opens with minimal air pressure (as tested with air compressor and regulator), the front one however requires like 20psi before opening, then i can actually open and close it quite freely until it fully closes again. to me seems like something inside the actuator is binding before allowing it to open fully. If i assist the movement of the wastegate arm, again it comes out easily. There is no air hissing from inside it, so the diaphragm seems to seal just fine. I dont know really what they look like inside, but i can't think what it might be binding on. any suggestions? I haven't used these turbos before, so its possible that the wastegate housing was deformed in transit, the vac nipple on one of them was bent over a bit, could have been this one possibly, but unsure. If the wastegate housing is slightly deformed, would this cause the issue (ie the internal "piston" or whatever is there is catching on the inner wall of the housing, until being freed by more backpressure) the actuator housing doesn't APPEAR deformed but if i can't find a solution, i'll take it out for closer inspection, but that will be a c-word of a job, not much space in this bmw engine bay. thanks all chris.

hey guys, as above, as tested with my air comp+reg, one of mine needs like 20psi to open, seems like there is something stopping it from opening initially then it opens fine.. This results in a fairly serious boost spike we found whilst being retuned.. This test was done with it disconnected from the wastegate flap. So i guess i'm looking for a replacement one, preferably somewhere from 'Lake Brisbane' or surrounds. Chris.

Have a spare R33 Turbo slave cylinder here, is the one with both boltholes on the same side of the cylinder. No lines supplied. Nissan part number 30620-21U23 Its surplus to my needs but in working condition.. $50 posted anywhere in Australia. Pickup available, Algester, South of brissy Cheers, Chris. 0422 933 217

oh ok well the ones i was talking about are the 0.60 A/R and 0.64 hotside.. had the same part number as the 32Nismo on this sheet, except as i mentioned mine were 0.60 A/R -> http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tbroom/Turbos.htm

I had the old N1 (bush bearing) turbos. take it from me, they are laggy, i have a dyno sheet in the RB26 thread -> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/93880-rb26-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page__view__findpost__p__5112467 The engine was thrown in my car with these turbo's I bought them as stock ones, so i didn't question it.. we thought we had issues with the boost controller and a restrictive exhaust. It turned out they were the old Group A turbos you are describing. They would start to spin up at any speed, you could hear them. But really the car wouldn't come alive until around 7psi, they're great for big cheap power and you can put a tonne of boost through them like the old gibson r32 did (2bar+??). I have since sold them and gone to stock turbos. next purchase will be a medium sized single or some R34 N1's.. as most of my decisions are based on cost Vs performance.

yes, i mean no disrespect the the thread owner, but with only a few days as a member under his belt, no contact details, and asking for a decent packet of cash - mods should be onto these sorts of threads before they become an issue. else good luck with the sale

hi guys, just looking for an rb20/rb25/rb26 coilpack harness (I realise they're not all the same but just need the 6 plugs with wires attached in good condition) Thanks.. Chris 0422 933 217

my bmw cage?? well its all painted now

any particular reason?

hard to jump in after the paint-master HYPED, but here goes.. I have welded a fitting onto my turbo oil drain on the block (hot-side), as setup as follows I haven't planned on using the PCV, any problems with this setup? i haven't used it yet, the car is due to turn over in a couple of weeks.. This thread had me thinking, under boost, could i possibly be sucking oil up the oil drain and into my catchcan?? i'm guessing the turbo inlet pipe produces a vacuum but unsure to what extent..

yes brad its my first cage (those who have built many will no doubt find flaws in my design). I heard CDW actually has a higher strength rating than CDS, i think i read this in the cams manual? 250MPA vs 350MPA?? The cages in your links look great, hope to some day get a result like that!

Yes its CDS, I pay around $20/m for it, its 1.75" x 2.6mm. my mate who is about 5" tall and scrawny (sorry aza, but you are) is able to bend tube like the incredible hulk on that bender! cage will be painted in 2pack gloss like the exterior

Here is my first attempt at installing a rollcage into my BMW. Upto this point (with the front not welded yet) I've spent about 6 hours on the cage, side instrusion bars are yet to be installed, ran out of tig rods The cage is bolted to the floor (as per QLD DOT guidelines) then barwork is welded in. All our bending is done manually with the help of the awesome JD Squared tube bender. Notches are done with a grinder using the 'chop saw method' which gives a great welding area with minimal gaps to fill. All joins are tig welded. Thanks to my mates for their assistance. Some parts of the cage are like that by design, other parts are out of necessity, i know alot of people have their own ideas on cage design, but for my purpose (weekend track work) this should be sufficient. I've got about 100mm of clearance between my head and the overhead section of the A pillar bar, would like this to be a little wider but was limited to where i can get a good weld with the tig, and i wanted to triangulate the rear backstay bars and this A pillar section for strength. thanks for looking! pics.. the mighty tube bender!!! \/ cage pics \/

$90 anyone??

SPARCO Harness Black, complete with eye bolts for mounting to floor. Can also be mounted to harness bar in a cage. Has long straps suitable to reach far enough back to suit most applications. Pictured is actual item (not including seats!) $100 including delivery anywhere in australia. Pickup available from Brisbane southside (algester) Chris 0422 933 217

looks great! just curious, how you manage to get the torch into tight spots like this? do you pull the tungsten out a fair bit, and wind up the gas flow to shield it more? or any secrets? i'm also thinking for tighter spots too, like between runners in an ex manifold, etc..

the usual non-constructive stonewall response from nismoid.. perhaps he did mean midrange power. type b's seem to be the way to go for better idle, both have the same 9.15mm lift, they're my choice

craved that just cast ally for the evo 6

thought i'd post up to show how we clean up a cam cover, did a similar thing for my rb26 but already been seen in this forum so here's something new... here's a cam cover we did for a customer's EVO.. skimmed the writing off the cover and welded up some old holes welded on some speedflow fittings for catch can then off to the powdercoater for PPG Ripple black Complete with our custom alloy coil covers and laser engraved plates for that personal touch..

i've stripped out all that stuff, is the balance tube the thicker one that sits under the plenum? i've removed my AAC valve too, so just ran some pipe from one tube to the other. works for me, i'm running a microtech which doesn't have AAC valve control too, hence why i got rid of it (weight reduction!). no idle control issues or any problems really.

as above, no real issues, we machine the face of the intake so there wasn't a chance of leaks. also required some die grinding as there were large chunks of alloy casting still inside. ya get what ya pay for..

bump