FULOCK

Hi mate, yeah might be still interested.... you have any pics....?? is it manual or auto? you gona be coming back to VIC anytime soon by any chance to have a look at both cars? Not a fan of buying cars interstate with out actually looking at it myself.... I did it once.... wasn't the best experience......

sorry this is a bit off topic, but are the brakes different also in the turbo and non turbo 34's??

Im looking to buy a R34 with this screen at the moment..... Isn't there an AV input somewhere in the R34 for the LCD Screen.....?? the Nissan Stagea has AV inputs on the Factory TV unit/receiver (which doesnt work in Aus). My Stagea has this factory LCD Screen (as many of them do), all I had to do was buy a single din DiVX/MP3 Player that can send a NTSC video signal (I bought a JVC unit), wired all the speakers to the new unit as per normal, and ran the AV Video line from the JVC Unit to an AV input where the facotry TV Unit/Receiver, set the screen to AV2 (which you only have to do once) and **Vwalla!!** If I play MP3's the list of songs, artist info, etc. is always displayed on the screen, put a movie on - plays instantly through the screen..... no fancy electronics required...... couldn't something like this be done on the R34???

So thus making the non-turbo auto weaker than the turbo auto?? So is there a difference in the manual 5spd gear boxes between the turbo and non turbo R34's??

very interesting.... for anyone like myself that has never done one of these diagnostic tests..... how do you do one...?? is there a thread on it somewhere here????

Ok, now im starting to really like this thread as we might be getting somewhere now.... and not just figures being thrown all over the place... Could anyone who had bad economy at first, Post up what they did/tried (eg. the suggestions posted above by SKiT_R31) on their RB25DE or DET which greatly improved their city/traffic economy! SKiT_R31 - love your work - I like the essay too!! If we can get members to list what they did/tired on this thread, and it worked for their car to improve economy, this thread will be GOLD imo!! It will give everyone a clear understanding and a list of troubleshooting procedures they can go through on their own car if their fuel economy isn't as it should be.....

Price $20,000 Colour: Silver Interior Colour: Black Kilometres 133,785 Transmission: 6 speed Manual Body: 4 door 5 seat SEDAN Drive type: Rear Wheel Drive (Factory LSD) 11 months reg Engine 6 cylinder Unleaded Multi-point injected 2.0L (1988cc) AirCon, Pwr Steering, Full Electrics (Drivers seat, windows, mirrors, fold mirrors) Factory Keyless Entry/Immobiliser/Alarm Factory Sunroof Heated Seats Heated Side Mirrors 17" Alloys, Near New tires all round. (Optional Double Din DVD/MP3 Player) Factory 6 Speaker System - Sounds Awesome for factory speakers!!! Looked after extremely well, has not gone more than 7000k's with out a service. Extremelly fuel economic!! you will get 9lt/100k's in Suburban/City Driving - even better on HWY long trips. I am in the Market for a R34 4Door, preferably NA - happy to swap with $$ my way ontop. Here's a few pics. Feel free to either PM me if you have any questions or Contact Marz or Beti on 0401800066 / 0402299501 Serious Buyers only please!

ok, 580k's on 90% flat hwy I can maybe beleive..... but 450-500km in town still to me sounds like a lot of km's..... was that peak hour traffic and no highway driving what so ever? and on Standard unleaded also!!!! WHAT THE!! HOW????

Im glad im not the only one.....!! Im starting to think that people who claim they get over 450km's and upto 500+km's in city driving are either pulling our leg, adding an extra 40k's or so to their figure for good luck, or their car is running very very lean!! I dont want to lean out my engine coz that means a hotter running engine and dangerouse on high rpm's (dunno if you can even do that a factory ecu)..... ***** if someone has first hand experience getting their economy to improve from barely making 400k's a tank to making the claimed 500+ k's to a tank, on a RB25DE or DET, NEO or not, myself and im sure many other members would love to know what or how you did this??********* Is it as simple as a faulty oxy sensor that could make such a difference, or airflow metre...... or something not so obviouse as maybe faulty injectors, coilpacks leaking... etc....

So are you saying your current R34 is a GT-T and drinks more petrol than your R34 25GT which was non-turbo?? NA R34 more fuel efficient than R34 GT-T?? I really want to get to the bottom of this as I am in the market for another R34 4Door NA or Turbo depending on these factors and price I can find one for....

Im seriously confused..... the pattern I've seen so far is most people either say they just clock over 400k's on a tank.... and other's claim they get easy 480-500k's in city traffic. I've had a R34 4Door GT-T - and I struggled to get 400k's on a tank on average and that's driving while the light was on for a bit before filling up again (and I drove it like an absolute grandma!!!) I did not go over 3000rpm's the whole tank!!!!! and that's very light foot accellerating, it did not hit boost the whole tank!!! I put my R34 on the dyno and they told me everything was fine with it, air/fuel mixtures were like they should be........ With spirited driving the whole tank, every day to work and back i'd get as low as 340k's a tank!!! Now I have a Stagea RS Turbo (RWD) - so same running gear - and I get exactly the same figures to a tank!! So how are people getting 500k's to a tank!! I really want to know!!! Have i just been unlucky and the two RB25DET's i've owned been thirsty ones?? Is there a secret that some know and other's dont about these engines?? I always make sure I look after my cars well too, new oil (good oil) and oil filter every 5000k's, do sparkies approx every 10-15,000k's, always use good fuel... so I dont see anything that im doin wrong...... someone please enlighten me!!!

of all the Stagea's i've seen, i've never seen that screen either.... although, if its a similar setup with the TV tuner - it will be in your left rear guard ontop of your back left wheel, and here you will find the AV input..... thats how I setup my one with a JVC DivX/DVD player.... works a treat!!

I strongly suggest R31 all the way!!! I had that as my first car and owned it for 8 years!!! Very sad when I sold it - if I could have afforded it and had somewhere to keep it, as well as my new R34 I would have definately kept it!!! Personally I love the Ti Models Beautiful/comfortable interior Full elects, Cruise control they were all auto - unless it was converted (like I did with my one ) Some had LSD - if you want it you can get it done, dont know how much it costs these days, it cost me $550 back in 2001 If you get the Series 2 (1986,87) - its the same transmissions as the VL's had (only difference in then manual is 5th gear to the VL) The Series 3 (1988,89,90) Auto is different - its Electronically controlled ( I was told its the same auto as what the 300ZX and some Patrol's had) They are fine as long as you look after them and service them when needed Cant do Shift Kits on them ( I was told anyways ), the older Auto's you can. Don't do Nuetral to Drive 'rev n dumps' coz that kills the Auto pretty quickly as I learnt (was planning the manual anyways) Common issue i've found with them is the power steeing lines sometimes leak fluid, and the steering rack under the car, check for oil leaks. Once they get to the high 200,000k's you might need a new water pump Check all the bushes, tie rod ends etc.... normal wear and tear that comes with the age of these cars..... You might have a few oil leaks from the Roccer Cover - sometimes easily fixed with a tightening of the screws with a screw driver, easy. Apart from the two above, you wont have any issues if you dont drive it as hard as I did alot of the time..... My parents still own a Series2 which they've had since 97 - still going strong.... driven it everywhere, including upto QLD and back to Melb. If you drive it normally, service it every 10,000k's, if you drive it hard, every 5,000K's (just oil and oil filter), and I guarantee you that engine will be bullet proof!!! spark plugs approx every 15,000k's or so...... they dont rattle and squeek like a Crumbledoor, and dont leak oil like a old Falcon. Electrics are the best you'll find in a car that age - window's dont take 10years to open and close like a VL Calais with My Series 3 Ti Auto with only 2.5" Exhaust and pod filter - got 91rwkw once converted to manual, same mods - got 98rwkw I bolted on a t3 Hi-Flow, intercooler, VL turbo Injectors, etc pretty basic setup - got 127rwkw on 7spi then with extra injector and 10psi - 165rwkw in 2003 When I bought it in 1999 it had 226,000 I sold the car in 2007 - still on 10psi new owner put it on the dyno - still had 164rwkw and that engine had over 300,000k's, Engine Never opened from Factory, completely untouched!!!! My point to all the above!! I think the R31 Skyline is defiantely one of the Best Cars ever Built in Australia!!!!! Reliable, Powerfull, comfortable etc..... Only reason I broke stuff on mine in the early days is because of the way I drove it..... which goes for any car if driven hard one day When I can afford it - I will own one again built for track purposes only!!!! Ohh, for price diff these days check out www.r31skylineclub.com I know i'v rambled on abit but yeah..... R31's ROCK!!!

Very Very interesting!!!! No issues with damage on the wire being outside...?? I guess you could run it through a plastic tube or something to protect it..... Pics would be great if possible!! P.S. I know about the power and RCA's not being near eachother.... Cheers anyways pipster11!

Thanks guys, Hopefully one of these arvo's i'll have time to give it a shot!!

Amp is in the boot bolted to the sub box.... I want to run the power cable and RCA's under the carpet/seats to the back....

Hi Fellow Stagea drivers, As per the topic, I need to run my power cable for my Amp but cannot find anywhere to run the power cable through the firewall into the cabin.... I want to do it neat and dont want to butcher anything by trail and error..... If anyone could take a pic of their engine bay where they've run it through that would be really helpfull..... If I need to drill a new hole... where is safest?? Cheers!

When the coil packs are faulty and spark is escaping out of them you can actually hear it. Pop your bonnet with your engine running on idle, listen closely to the engine and only touch the accelerator cable a smidge to get the revs up only a couple hundred rpm's..... you might then hear a clear 'ticking' sound - thats a spark escaping out of the coil pack onto wherever it can find metal around it.... at high rpm... thats your problem.... Coil Packs!! A mechanic showed me this when I was selling my R34 - they buyer told me they changed the coil packs - the noise was gone and it ran perfect.

Thats exactly how the traction control works. How fast are you going around these roundabouts, bumps or rut's on the road....??? the 'slip' light is telling you that your rear tyres are 'slipping' on the road, when that happens, it will cut power to the rear wheels, Thus: "Traction Control". Nothing to do with your LSD slipping..... If you dont want that to happen... turn your "Traction Control" off.......

I much prefer the 4door over the 2door. I also was looking for a 2door, then when i saw my first 4door i fell in love and grabbed it straight away!! performance wise - they're exactly the same I felt!! same engine, same setup... might be a touch heavier but not much at all....

dude its 1 - your spark plugs or 2 - your coil packs. had same prob with my 34 a while back - with me it was my spark plugs - had some iridium sh1ts in there... between 4000rpm to a bout 5500rpm it would splatter of its nuts.... and like you alot of the time would not get past 5000rpmm I just put in some NGK's (neither iridiums or platinums, just normal plugs gapped right) - and prob fixed!!! smooth revs all the way to the limiter!!!! and if you cant beat a holden 6..... something definitley wrong.... I can run faster thana crumbledoor!!!

Yes I can! the paused R34 in my pic above is from Too Fast Too Furiouse - that little 10mins clip at the start before the actuall movie starts.... Last night I was watching a divX disk full of TopGear!!

Thought i'd post up a few pics of the final product. Installing the deck is pretty much same steps as installing a deck and there's threads on it here. The other pics are of where the screws are to take out the CD Stacker (make sure you gently place it in the bin ), and you can see i've half taken out the screws in the pic. and another pic of where the AV input is for the screen, its in front of the CD stacker and I took a pic underneath of it which shows the RCA inputs. Hope this helps others as Chooks instructions definitely helped me!!!

ok.... when organising a Wedding, you have sweet F**k All time to do anything else.... so i've been driving my car with everything dissmantled and no music/radio for a week..... (luckily i had the turbo to listen do ) but, i finally found some time last night and put it together.... and it works a Treat!!!!! Flick the deck over onto NTSC - turn it off, back on again for the NTSC to take effect and bingo!! DVD, DIVX, radio, etc.... Didnt have a chance to take pics last night.... but will try put some up today after work!!! One quick question..... where's the best place/way to run a power cable for an amp....??? I'm thinking of putting a sub in the back... but couldnt figure out where to run the power cable through the firewall.... any suggestions...?? best/easiest way...??

Hey Boys, Just received an interesting email (below) going around about this topic - Whata ya's think??? ===================================== Some of you have fuel cards with other companies so you think that none of this applies to you. Well it sure as hell does !!! When fuel costs go up, ALL goods and services increase in price. When this feeds into inflation, the Reserve Bank increases interest rates !!! Forward this to as many people that you can and lets make them take notice. ----------------------------------------------------------- LET'S JUST DO IT ! ! ! THIS IS NOT THE 'DON'T BUY' PETROL FOR ONE DAY, BUT IT WILL SHOW YOU HOW WE CAN GET PETROL BACK DOWN TO $1.00 PER Litre....hopefully This was originally sent by a retired Coca Cola executive. If you are tired of the gas prices going up AND they will continue to rise this winter, take time to read this PLEASE. Phillip Hollsworth offered this good idea. This makes MUCH MORE SENSE than the 'don't buy petrol on a certain day' campaign that was going around last April or May! It's worth your consideration. Join the resistance!!!! We are going to hit $ 2.00 a litre and it might go higher!! Want petrol prices to come down? We need to take some intelligent, united action. The oil companies just laughed at that because they knew we wouldn't continue to 'hurt' ourselves by refusing to buy petrol. It was more of an inconvenience to us than it was a problem for them. BUT, whoever thought of this idea, has come up with a plan that can Really work. Please read on and join with us! Now that the oil companies and the OPEC nations have conditioned us to think that the cost of a liter of gas is CHEAP at $1.50, we need to take aggressive action to teach them that BUYERS control the marketplace...not sellers. With the price of gasoline going up more each day, we consumers need to take action. The only way we are going to see the price of petrol come down is if we hit someone in the pocketbook by not purchasing their petrol! And, we can do that WITHOUT hurting ourselves. How? Since we all rely on our cars, we can't just stop buying petrol. But we CAN have an impact on petrol prices if we all act together to force a price war. Here's the idea: For the rest of this year, DON'T purchase ANY petrol from BP Australia the biggest price up driver company. If they are not selling any petrol, they will be inclined to reduce their prices. If they reduce their prices, the other companies will have to follow suit. But to have an impact, we need to reach literally millions of BP Australia petrol buyers. It's really simple to do! Now, don't wimp out on me at this point...keep reading and I'll explain how simple it is to reach millions of people!! I am sending this note to 20 people. If each of us s end it to at least ten more (20 x 10 = 200) .. And those 200 send it to at least ten more (200 x 10 = 2000 ... and so on, by the time the message reaches the sixth group of people, we will have reached over TWO MILLION consumers. If those get excited and pass this on to ten friends each, then 20 million people will have been contacted! If it goes one level further, you guessed it..... TWO HUNDRED MILLION PEOPLE!!! Again, all you have to do is send this to 10 people. That's all! I'll bet you didn't think you and I had that much potential, did you! Acting together we can make a difference. If this makes sense to you, please pass this message on THEY LOWER THEIR PRICES TO BELOW THE $1.50 RANGE AND KEEP THEM DOWN. THIS CAN REALLY WORK. Simple – send the message along to other and do not buy petrol from BP Australia. ================================================= Just thought I'd share it here.............