Equinox

Willt GT2560Rs will come anywhere near 400awkw? They're smaller than the GT-SS'.

Hey all. I've got this strange problem with an R32 RB20. It has just an fmic, full exhaust, boost controller, etc. Still running the stock turbo. Since it was bought, it's always had problems with missfiring under boost at higher rpm. We would change the plugs (Replace with BKR6Es gapped to 0.8mm) and it would drive well for around 1000-2000km, but then start missfiring again! Pull the plugs out, and they look fine, but put some new ones in and it drives well for another 1000-2000km? I thought I'd try the BKR7Es on this car, as I use them in pretty much every other RB/SR with no issues whatsoever and something strange happened. The car wouldn't rev over 4000rpm. It was as if it was hitting a rev limiter? A really horrible missfire which would actually cause the revs to stop rising. We took the BKR7Es and gapped them all the way down to 0.6mm even and didn't help one bit! Tried taping up his coilpacks with electrical tape, and no help whatsoever. After that we put another set of BKR6Es in and the car drove fine? But yet again, when 1500km ticked over, the missfiring came back. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks Peter

Doesn't work like that. You only want to change when the torque in the rpm range that you will be in in the next gear multiplied by the next gears ratio is higher than the current torque you are making in the current gear. My SR for example dies off at the top, but at 7000rpm in 2nd gear I'm still making more torque at the wheels than I would be at 4800rpm in 3rd. so I change as late as possible if I'm edging every bit out of it.

OMG I have that on one of my rear RE001s. I couldn't work out what it was! Looks exactly the same. 200rwkw S14 which sees a lot of mountain passes but I've never drifted on these RE001s. I'll try and get a picture of it tomorrow. Anyone else? Should I take the tyre(s) back to Bridgestone and get them replaced? The one with the tear is basically new.

You sure the drain plug isn't leaking? Did you fill the gearbox oil through the shifter hole instead of the filler hole and spilled some?

Wont screw up the handling and I doubt you'll notice an increase of front track of 16mm but you will need longer wheel studs if you are going to be running an 8mm spacer. Your stock studs are around 27mm long, and with an 8mm spacer and the 10mm or so that your rim uses to connect to the hub, there isn't going to be enough thread left to safely secure your wheels.

A poor mismatched setup, eg. 1.4bar on the stock turbo.

A friend of mine bought a '69000km' R32 GTS-T....

Get the genuine gaskets. They're way better than any of the aftermarket shit I've come accross. The stock RB metal gaskets can take quite a beating. (Just keep your turbo-manifold nuts tight)

Going through 3 houses? When did this happen? Must be online somewhere.

It's fine. Yes of course you will loose low end response. You've got a much bigger surface area on your new pipe, so it will radiate heat alot quicker than the stock unit, reducing exhaust velocity and therefore torque. However as revs increase, the extra flow outweighs this, and you begin to make more torque. The noise is probably normal. Turbos make sounds like that.

Nice idea. Could sell braided line kits for common conversions. eg. The two water lines and the oil line to connect an RB25 Turbo on an RB20. (I hate those stock lines.) And an S14/S15 turbo on an S13.

Sounds like faulty/overheating Graphics Card RAM. Had this happen to a couple of machines. Swap in a new graphics card and see what happens. I'd be inclined to check your system RAM as well (Run Memtestx86), but when I read the vertical blue lines you described, they sound exactly like the symptoms of faulty GFX RAM. Oh and if you're prepared to chuck a graphics card that expensive in, definitely invest in some more system RAM. 1GB is way too little these days. (Unless you're running a really light Linux Distro or something) 2GB minimum. I'd go for 4GB because it's just so damn cheap. Nothing worse than swap-file hard drive thrashing.

XD Every time I see one of them drive by I look in the window to see what kind of person would actually fork out money for one of them...

hhhahaha Whose is that car? (If you're thinking of the same one I am in Mulgrave)

Can you find out the offsets? Probably written on the rims somewhere.

RDA are good value. I'm running RDAs with QFM pads. Only cost $250 for the front all up.

Dirtiest cars ever. haha. Two girls from my high school bought these shit 80s 318is for that exact reason; they thought they made them look classy. The pieces of shit broke down so often and had to get towed holding up the whole rest of the car park from going home. N/A S13s with chromies and the like give me the shits. Was at my friend's panel shop, and a guy with one came in asking for a 'body kit.' My friend said sure, it'll be blah blah to fit it if you supply one. And he goes can't you supply one? My friend asks the guy what kind of kit he wants (Vertex, GP Sport, etc) and the guy goes on to say "I just want a kit. The guy around the corner said he'd give me a body kit painted for $1000"

Keep seeing a clean Z32 at Monash Uni. Silver with dish GMax wheels. Has SAU stickers on the rear 1/4 glass.

Sorry. Should have mentioned the car has an oil cooler.

Hmm some good info in that link. I'll tell him to order a new thermostat and replace that hose and see how it goes. Thanks for all the help.

Got my rotors earlier than expected! Thanks rs73.

Recieved my pads. Thanks markk!

Thanks guys. I'll try putting the thermostat back in and seeing how it goes. Would have to tow it there though. That's why I'm trying to work it out myself first.

Nah. Would that effect how it cools at high rpm?