Equinox

Got a new radiator cap with the new radiator. Could try another one though I guess. Pretty desperate for ideas at this stage... What kind of test you mean? Leakdown test on the motor?

Hmm thanks for the help. I'll chuck a brand new battery in and tape up the coil packs. They look in pretty bad shape.

I've got a problem with my friend's 180SX. After it is warm it only takes 3-4 full throttle runs to redline to get his water temp up to the 90s, and it takes ages to come back down. He used to drift it at Winton with no issues until one day when it just overheated on the track and has been doing it ever since. Since that day, to try and fix it we have: - Rebuilt head. Cleaned up the whole thing, port and polished the ports and installed new head gasket. - Removed thermostat. - Installed Alloy Radiator - Installed Twin Thermos - Bypassed heater core - Changed Water Pump - Flushed the whole system And it still does it! Can anyone think of anything we've missed? One of our friends suggested that the water pump could be sucking the radiator hose closed at high rpm, but I've never heard of that happening before? Car is running a T518Z, is an SR and is making around 240rwkw if it makes any difference. Thanks, Peter

It took him 2 months to comply it. By that stage, I guess the battery had gone flat.

No real way of knowing if you weakened your valvetrain. Just hope for the best. This is probably the most common way that healthy engines pack it in, miss-shifts.

No one has any ideas?

Around 300HP.

Hey. Got a problem with an R32 GTR. Picked it up from compliance and the idiot decided to jump start it the wrong way. (- to +, + to -). After a bit of smoke he realized, and then jump started it the right way. The car now will not start on it's own with a battery. We put a working battery out of another car in and no luck. The car will crank once but not have enough power to actually rotate the engine. If we jump start it off another running car, it will start, but only after a good 10-15 seconds of cranking. The car drives bad. Misfires under any load, and whenever there is a misfire, all the instruments die. The gauges drop to zero, the lights turn off, etc. After driving it around for a while to charge the battery, it will not turn on again after being turned off. We also tried removing the battery while the car was running to check the alternator, and the car kept running. (Albeit badly, like above) Anyone have any ideas what may have been screwed up? The car drove fine before the compliance people had their way with it. Thanks, Peter

Hmm interesting. I'm just going by the guy's word who sold it to me. Sorry if I was wrong. Can anyone else confirm that it's a Nismo 2-Way instead?

Got a Nismo GT 2-Way LSD. Came off an S13 track car that only saw the track a few times until the engine carked it. Will fit S13/S14/S15/R32/R33/R34/A31/etc Appears to be in perfect working condition. I'll take the rear housing off if you come to look at it so you can see that it is indeed a 2-way. Asking $900ono. Pickup available in Warrandyte, Victoria. Can post the centre alone interstate if someone wants. For an extra $100 I'll install it too.

Was driving with a nice maroon R33 up Mt Dandenong Tourist Road this afternoon. Had what looked like Blitz Rims with a nice offset. Anyone on here?

Saw a nice Blue R34 GTT at BP Mulgrave last night with an SAU sticker on its quarter window.

Car nerds dream. I sit there for ages trying different suspension combos. Been playing it almost daily since it came out.

As was Kubica qualifying 2nd despite going off the track during the lap... Would have been a storming lap time had he not gone off.

Yeah M12x1.25

Are these still available? Are you making a new group buy?

Looking for one of these pickup in Melbourne. Anyone got one lying around? Thanks

Yes. Of course.

Of course they're going to make more torque... They're a 6L V8 after all. Think of it this way though. They have 297kW, you will have 325ish. (Flywheel) They weigh 1800kg, yours weighs 1370kg...

Did your engine inhale the little ball?

Yum, RE-01. Do they sell those in Australia officially?

I paid $230 for 235/45/R17 and $290 for 255/40/R17 a couple of months back.

I've got them. Amazing value for money. Cheapest of the top end tyres.

Installed one on my friend's old RB20 and yes, the exact same noise! Was so loud it was scary. Asked on here but no one seemed to know. The turbo ended up working fine for the whole time he had the car.

Why is everyone who does shocks in QLD.