Equinox

I've noticed that on my stock SR20 manifold, the 1-4 and 2-3 cylinder runners are grouped in a twin-scroll arangement. This would be a contribution factor in how it is so responsive correct? Are there any aftermarket manifolds which also group the cylinders based on firing order for the SR20? Those Full-Race ones do not appear to...

Doesn't the cold pipe come out of the opposite side of the cooler compared to the R32/R33?

Don't waste your time. The amount of messing around required to fit it plus the fact that everyone charges way too much for them means you're better off getting a front mount.

Find out what exactly is wrong with the turbo. Strange for a damaged turbo to make your car stall. Usually if they die suddenly, they seize, blow a wheel off, etc. You may have simply blown a cooler pipe or something. As for the RB25 turbo, it's a good upgrade from the stock unit if you just want a 2nd hand turbo to get your car back on the road. It will run fine (albeit rich) on the stock RB20 map too.

Stock S2 turbos are Ball Bearing and have the twin blades you describe. What made you think it was aftermarket?

It's the company's image. Look at any German brand. Most of their cars look similar. (Porsche, BMW, Audi, Merc, etc)

It does exist. But the combination of the speedo being out at high speeds, and the fact that your rims are probably a different radius from stock result in your indicated top speed going over 180kph when you hit the limiter.

Turn your set gain down on the boost controller....

Chassis wise, the S14 and R32 are quite similar, with the R32 being slightly more favorable due to it's front suspension setup. (R33 is more of a GT car however...) So it basically comes down to which engine you prefer. The SR20 will be more fuel efficient (my S14 gets around 500km to the tank while making 200rwkw), and will make more peak torque mod for mod than either the RB20 or RB25. The RBs on the other hand, will make less peak torque, but hold their torque higher into the rev range and go on to make similar (RB20) or higher (RB25) power mod for mod. When you drive cars hard, do you prefer to sit around 4000rpm through twisties? Or do you love revving it out around long sweepers/track? If revving is your thing, RB. If drifting or mid range is your thing, SR. I always tell my mates who have RB20s and 25s that I'd love to have their engines, purely because I love engines which keep making torque up to like 8000rpm. Then they tell me to shut up and look at their fuel bills.

The Z32 handles way more than 255rwkw out of an RB25. But yes, the RB25 AFM would most likely be reaching it's upper ceiling at he levels of airflow you'd need to make that power. Get a Z32.

Sounds like you've broken something more important than the coilover. Does the top or bottom of the wheel sit in?

I vote for Chasers. Paul really knows his GTRs...

Isn't it just listing the model of the controller? eg. FN (FCC3, etc), or NT (PFC Pro)

Hey guys. Just reinstalled the intake manifold on my friends R32, and found this plug unplugged and can't find anywhere to plug it into. It's just below the AAC valve. Anyone know where it goes? The car hunts badly at idle if that helps... Thanks Peter

Dude it's normal. All manual RWD cars do it. Don't go replacing stuff for nothing.

This has been on my mind for a while and I've been meaning to ask someone knowledgeable about it... I have an S14, and was wondering what should the spring balance front to rear be? All aftermarket coilover combos seem to have a stronger front rate to rear (eg. 10/8, 8/6, etc) whereas aftermarket springs seem to either be neutral or stiffer in the rear! (eg. Tein 3.1/3.1, Whiteline 2.8/3.1, Nismo 4.6/5.5) Is there a reason for this? For neutral handling which ratio is preferred? Thanks.

Could also be an exhaust leak. I've had that on my S14 when I got a cat with dodgy flanges. Sounded exactly as you described at startup.

Did it on an R32 with a mate the other day, only took about an hour to do all four sides. Just get a good breaker bar.

It's hard to completely not ride it at all though. Then you're pretty much dumping it, which is also bad for it, isn't it?

Okay can someone clear this one up for me? I see a lot of people on here have eaten up these clutches in a few months, whereas many have had them in for years with no issues. Which of these is the best method for taking off? Either: - Slip the clutch slightly at low rpm (idle... 800rpmish) until you can safely drop the clutch without stalling or - Rev it up a bit, and sorta slow-dump the clutch so it grabs with maybe a little chirp and takes off. Or some other method I havn't tried yet lol.

You're running pretty lean under load for the stock ecu... Definitely not stock.

This is really getting on my nerves. Tried both types of Turbotech controllers (with and without the drilled hole) both set at 12psi and lately when it's been really cold (eg. at night), whenever I go over 4000rpm the boost creeps slowly up towards a maximum of 14psi at redline. Everyone says how well these hold boost, and they have for me too all through summer, but lately as soon as the air temperature drops, it just creeps like mad. Anyone have any idea how to stop this? I have an AMPerformance CES-style one piece front/dump pipe if it makes any difference. I might have to bite the bullet and buy an EBC if this keeps up.

TV Rock.. Lmao

Only 3?

Pics? offsets?