Equinox

The R32 GTR brakes are much better than the stock S15 brakes. The front calipers are much lighter while still being a larger sink (however the pistons are the same). The rotor diameter is larger on the front (296mm vs 280mm). The rear is completely different. The R32 GTR uses a 297mm rotor with 2x38mm pistons whereas the S15 has a 257mm non-ventilated rotor with 1x38mm piston. The only thing is you will need to convert your handbrake assembly to the Skyline setup as well as the GTR runs a drum handbrake in the rear. To do this you will need R33 GTS-T handbrake cables as the R32 ones are too short for the S15 chassis. As for the R33 GTR setup. I don't believe its worth the money people ask. The only real advantage it has over the R32 GTR setup is the front rotor size. If you want you can buy caliper offset brackets and run the 324mm R33 GTR rotors with the R32 GTR calipers and therefore have 95% of the braking capacity the GTR Brembos offer but for significantly less money. In short. Parts needed: R32 GTR Setup: R32 GTR Front calipers R32 GTR Front rotors R32 GTR Rear calipers R32 GTR Rear rotors R32 GTR Rear handbrake assembly R33 GTS-T handbrake cables R33 GTR Setup: R33 GTR Front calipers R33 GTR Front rotors R33 GTR Rear calipers R33 GTR Rear rotors R33 GTS-T handbrake cables R32 GTR or R33 GTS-T handbrake assembly (R33 GTR will NOT fit unless you use the R33 GTR hubs and therefore driveshafts etc)

Yeah. I have other rims I use to drive it to the track then I swap the RE55s on there.

Nah if you don't wanna take the hub apart then you'll have to cut it off. Maybe leave the back flat section of the guard intact then to stop water, etc splashing up on the disc.

Sweet. Thanks guys.

The S14 calipers do not use banjos. They use a flare fitting. You can buy them from any brake shop. Just cut as much of the dust shield off as you need. Most of us here remove them completely. Depends how much street driving you plan on doing I guess.

Hey all. I was just wondering how low you guys who run RE55S run them on the track? I have a set which are just below indicators and they don’t seem to be going off at all. They seem to have the same grip they had when I got them. (But I have pretty limited experience; I may be wrong ) Should I be ordering a new set or is there life left in them yet?

The link only seems to discuss the M (Motorbike) Snell standard and not the SA standard that we use.

Argh. Wish I realised this when I was booking my Japan trip earlier this year! I'm heading up with a couple of friends on the 18th of November for two weeks. Staying in Osaka, Kyoto and Tokyo and planning on hiring a car to explore some of the more obscure parts. Anything on around this time that I should be attending (Not just car related stuff. But I'd love to see some Japanese circuit action.) I'll probably go down to Mobara on the 2nd (the day I leave) as there seems to be a Driftmasters event on. What are the rest of you guys who are there at the same time as me doing? Wish I had booked it a week later!

Take the hats and springs off and put the shocks on a shock dyno.

Adz's car has a nice custom brace that ties the upper arm mounting points together and to the firewall. Probably the best design I've seen.

Thanks for your help guys. Gonna try some HC+ pads. Will I demolish RDA rotors with HC+ pads? Should I 'invest' in some SCR rotors or just give the RDAs a go?

They required a hell of alot of hard braking before the full surface of the pad had bedded into the disc. I did my normal bedding in procedure and when I pulled over after letting them cool only the middle inch or so of the disc looked good. The rest was still rough. Ended up going on a 200km drive to the mountains to get them properly bedded in. Then I glazed them up again braking normally on the way home.

Yeah I did bed them in. Bedded them in on the street and did another track day on them as well. (Where I didn't brake as hard) They were bloody hard to bed in though!

Indeed. I got sick of it. I just do them myself in the garage now. Car has never felt better.

Here's some pics by the way. I left them at full resolution so you can see details easily. Assumed most people have a decent internet connection these days. Front: http://www.users.on.net/~logon/cars/progress/DSC00875.JPG http://www.users.on.net/~logon/cars/progress/DSC00876.JPG http://www.users.on.net/~logon/cars/progress/DSC00877.JPG Rear: http://www.users.on.net/~logon/cars/progress/DSC00879.JPG

What would define as 'serious track work' though? It's a street trimmed S14 on Semis doing no more than 3 hot laps in a session. I might leave these on the back and look into a better pad for the front. (Off to Japan in 2 weeks so might grab some Mus while I'm there)

Strange. Don't know what I was doing! It's on both sides of the car and all four pads so I doubt its sticky pistons. I did a 1:41.8 and the car has 220rwkw ish.

Hmm Nengun lists them at $294 delivered. Thought Yahoo Auctions + delivery would be probably be a bit cheaper again. Guess I should support the local industry though!

A friend who was there in an Evo doing similar times to me (with a heavier car obviously) was using them and said they were great. May have to look into importing a set.

Hmm Interesting. Have you tried any other pads since to compare?

Hey all. Today I went to Winton for the second time with my S14. It has R33 GTS-T brakes all round with stock rotors and QFM A1RM pads all round. The last time I came and for the first two sessions today the brakes were great however around half way through the day my pedal started going soft and then began to studder. I came into the pits and had a look at the front discs. They were dark and had heaps of pad material spread over them. The near new (at the start of the day) front QFM pads were now down to indicators. The backs however were fine. Now it looks to me that I've gotten these things way too hot. I was doing a warmup lap, 2-3 hot laps, then a cool down lap, then another flyer then retuning to the pits with another cooldown lap. Is this too much for a pad like this to handle? Looking around various forums these seem to be advertised for basic track work. Should I be warming them up or cooling them down differently? My car is lighter than an R33 so someone running them on an R33 would have bigger issues I'd imagine. For the record the splash guards have been removed however I have not made any custom ducting yet. (Apart from the stock air guides on the caster rods) There are also no shims/backing plates/etc on the pads and I'm running Motul RBF600.

Annoys me how One just decide to skip the first 5 minutes of qualifying sometimes.

Why did they retire Hamilton anyway?

^ Paint the rotor before you put it on?

Heaps of topics on this; but if you just take the 'spirited drive' might not be worth even going for coilovers. A good spring/shock combo will do you just fine and be miles more comfortable on the street than most readily available coilovers. (Read: Jap)