White GTS-T

This might sound like a silly question, but did you put oil in it prior to fitting/driving it? Most places that build gearboxes/diff's/transfer cases etc that I have seen, all come dry, and are not filled with any oil.

Give it a love tap with a soft faced hammer/rubber mallet

That's a good result! Do you know how much boost that was on?

If you have not replaced the in-line fuel filter after replacing the fuel pump, which you should have, the filter will be blocked. Remove and test the fuel filter by blowing through it to see if it is restricted and full of contamination (copper etc from the failed pump)

My 32

What did they knock you back on?

If you're getting CAM/Crank correlation codes, and you've rulled out the sensors and the ECU, then next logical thing left is the wiring, or the mechanical timing of the engine. Can you get an oscilloscope on the CPS and CKP signal wires to rule out timing chain stretch? Can you check the power and ground supply to the VCT solenoids? Are the solenoids actuating? Or, as suggested, are the solenoid gallers blocked or VCT gears worn? What is the service history like on the car? Does the engine rattle when started cold? Find yourself a wiring diagram and test the resistance of the circuits between the sensors and the ECU. Check for mutual shorts, shorts to ground, shorts to power and high resistance. Perform a wiggle test on the wiring loom while monitoring the CKP, CPS, ignition timing etc. What does the scan tool say about the long and short term fuel trims? Does the scan tool log freeze frame/snapshot data when the codes log to help track down and replicate the condition?

Hit the end of the puller with a hammer (serious) while it is tight. You'll find once you shock it, you can retention the puller tighter, then repeat the process.

Are people locking the flywheels when torquing these bolts up? Or are they putting the vehicle in gear with the foot on the brake and putting all that torque through the clutch plate?

Price for the wheels?

You've owned it for years, have you ever replaced the engine mounts? I'd be checking and testing all the engine mounts first, including the gearbox mount.

The Flasher unit, or flasher cam is a special relay which controls the timing of the indicator speed. Check your fuse box wiring to identify which relay is the flasher cam. Alternatively, you should be able to hear/feel which relay is the flasher cam/unit when you have the indicators on

Yeah, there's nothing really new here, I just thought it was cool to see them throwing everything they had to modernise the RB26. Obviously fuel economy/emissions is one of their main focus points. Perhaps they're going for absolute control over injection timing, or even staging the injection with the twin injector setup? Having twin VCT eliminates the need for EGR when you as you can simply introduce more overlap to perform the same job. Interesting nonetheless.

So I thought the recent developments from HKS around the RB26 at the TAS for 2022 might be an interesting topic of discussion. For those that haven't seen it, this write-up on Speedhunters explains some of the points of difference with some detailed photos to boot. Here's the article in question; HKS RB26 TAS2022 It looks to include twin VCT, a newly designed twin-chamber plenum, and electronic internal wastegates and recirculation valves, just to name a few.

The whole power steering pump pivots. You have to loosen the pump to bracket mounting bolts and then you can move the pump to loosen/tighten the belt

Put the genuine BMC back and your problem will go away. Or buy a new genuine N1 item if you want the pedal to be 100%

It is possible the clutch isn't engaging because the air gap is too big. The clutch air gap is adjustable. The clutch air gap is determined by a stack of shims of varying thickness. You can change the air gap by changing/removing shims. You also need to be sure the clutch coil magnet is getting 12 volts when you turn your A/C on. And you need to put a set of manifold gauges on the system to see what it is doing. If the gauges indicate the static pressure in the system is okay, and you are getting 12 volts to the compressor and the clutch air gap is within specification, then and only then can you rule out the compressor while watching the gauges. Hope that helps

Hey, Sorry to hear, I'm not trying to be a dick, but do you know that it is a compressor failure, or are you just speculating because your A/C isn't working?

The FPCM drops the voltage to the fuel pump at idle, to quieten operation, and restores the voltage to normal as soon as the throttle is applied, so yes. Try to trace the wiring back, or upload some more photos. Judging from the single photo posted, the battery has been relocated to the boot?

Someone might have added an additional relay. Sometimes a relay is added to ensure a good solid voltage supply to the pump, or to by-pass the Fuel Pump Control Module (FPCM). The two heavier gauge wires will be the power and earth for the pump, while the two smaller gauge wires will be for the fuel level sender (fuel gauge).

If you want it done properly, Freddy at Topstage does excellent work. https://topstage.com/

Get yourself an oil stone. An oil stone is the best way to prepare the surface, second only to proper machining.

I have a set of TE37SL's in 17 x 9.5 + 12 that fit well with a bit of a roll, an aggressive alignment and some slightly stretched tyres

As above. Since the update, whenever viewing 'unread content', it has been the same threads that show up, in the same order, every time. It hasn't been updating at all. Hope this helps.