White GTS-T

That would be a drain for the original battery. Now days, most after market batteries are sealed, non-maintenance type. Although some manufacturers still use these batteries from new.

Do a leak down test first, then go from there. You only have to turn the motor by hand a couple of revolutions to do it.

Awesome read, thanks for sharing. If you don't mind, I'll just leave this here;

They are the same.

PM sent.

Regarding the build thread, there are enough likeminded people here, that I'm sure they would enjoy it. Hell, I just upload phone pics, and everyone don't seem to mind. But that does sounds like a lot of fun. You are right, I was looking at it the wrong way. It would be more about you and your car, rather than worrying about what other people are doing. If I was to go, some RSR's would be on the cards. I'd just need to do something about the guards as the narrow tyres that are on there now are already pushing the limits, especially sine installing longer UCA's.

Thanks man. I like the picture you posted of your 32 at the NSW time attack. You should start a build thread, I'd love to follow it. A grip day is definitely something I want to try. I mean, most of the parts are there, but I'm sure it would be me who would let the times down though.

Cheers. Likewise. They can be had here for $5.50! http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/genuine-nissan-radiator-mounting-rubber-upper-genuine-nissan-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-stagea-wc34-p-584.html

This just keeps getting better with every update.

Thank you. Your build, although only short thus far, is quite impressive as well. There's some quality content there, that is right up my ally. I too plan on doing an engine build at some stage, so I'll be keeping an eye on your thread. Haha! I cringe at the thought of adding up what I've spent with Streeter over the years.

On skylines, you tune out the bump steer by adjusting the traction arm, which in turn, effects the static alignment, which, once corrected, effects the bump steer...

I have a set of those, and they're only really good for static alignments. If you want to tune out bump steer, then you need a bump steer gauge; like the longacre ones. http://www.longacreracing.com/technical-articles.aspx?item=8162&article=Bump%20Steer

Sometimes It's the little things that make a difference. New radiator rubber mounts. Seeing as how the fenders will have to come off, I got these fender braces to strengthen the front end up. And lastly, this Cusco add-on that triangulates the rear strut brace, which I'm in the process of fitting.

Upon taking the car for a quick blat up the road it was apparent something still wasn't right. Not one to do things in halves, I ordered the following. Two GT-R circuit link sets. Only the third upper link would fit a GTS-T. The LCA's have since been sold. With the inclusion of the upper link, I needed to to get some length back, so I decided to replace my shorter upper arms. Old and new. Anti-seize all the things! Right side in. When replacing the upper links/arms It's easier if you disconnect the sway bar... And if you have the right tools. (The long 0 offset ratchet spanner was a godsend) The left side received the same treatment... With the addition of a new wishbone. Torque settings from Nismo for those wanting to D.I.Y.

The addition of the higher bolsters of the Brides made the decion to go the Works Bell Rapfix II a no brainer. To compliment it, a new suede Nardi deepcorn.

Continuing with the N1 theme. A pair of brand new N1 headlights. The crash broke all the mounts on my projector headlights, and while I do prefer the look of the projectors, I just couldn't go past this cheaper and cooler option.

Another thing to address, is the mismatch between the standard master cylinder and the GT-R brembos. That's where this N1 (non abs) master cylinder comes in.

Thanks Josh, that really means a lot. Yeah, I was still travelling at a considerable speed at the moment of impact. I've been keeping a close eye on your build, It's coming along very nicely.

The crash, although minor, kind of scared me and really highlighted just how important safety is.So I've since upgraded from 4 point 2" harness' to 6 point 3" types.

I also fitted up the Bride seats. The quality of these is very impressive, from the weave in the Kevlar, right down to the stitching. They're by far the most comfortable and supportive seats I've sat in.

It's time to update this. Unfortunately, it's not going to be a 'big reveal', that some, myself included, may have be hoping for. Truth be told, the car has been sitting in a corner of the workshop being neglected since the crash. For some reason I took the whole ordeal to heart and I'd be lying if I didn't say that the black dog has reared its ugly head again. Nonetheless work has begun, and progress is progress. The first thing to do, was to change out the bent crossmember. In lieu of this, I ordered a set of Nismo engine mounts. To support the motor while I dropped the cross member, I fitted this home made engine stand. Out with the old. As you can see, the LH engine mount was broken. This confirmed my earlier suspicions. It took a fair old hit, and you can see here, just how badly it was bent. It even bent the bolt. In with the new. I also took the liberty of replacing the castor arm brackets, but neglected to get a picture of this. The Nismo gearbox mount fitted up. The long Nismo box, pictured earlier, contained this boot brace which I fitted to help stiffen up the rear end. More to follow.

Interesting to see the Merc power unit in more detail. I was of the belief that they were running a big single. http://www.formula1.com/gallery/testing/2014/863.html

Beautiful. These won't last long. GLWS.

Wow, sounds pretty serious. Looking forward to the updates.

Welcome. Any pics of the Stag or any more details of the build?