White GTS-T

^I agree. Generally, I think that GTR's look best with one inch bigger than standard, from R32 through to R34. E.g. R32-17", R33-18" and R34-19" . But that rule of thumb doesn't seem to hold true for R35's for some reason.

Did you add the oil via the fill plug or through the shifter? If it was the latter, I've found it takes time for the oil to make its way down when pouring through the shifter. If so, your best bet would be to leave the fill plug out and wait until the oil stops coming out of the fill hole, then refit the fill plug. If you added the oil via the shifter and refit the fill plug as soon as any oil started to come out, and didn't allow some time for the oil to make its way down, I think you'll find it is overfull.

You do not.

They're not for everyone, but between my BrownDavis side intrusion bars, the bride seat and the Nardi wheel, it's a bit of a tight fit. Especially since I can't open the doors while the car is on the trailer. Prior to the quick release, with the aforementioned protrusions, you had to be a bit of a contortionist to get in and out of the window.

A negative figure denotes toe out.

As per forum rules, please post a price.

So clean. Are they clear headlight covers?

Neil, can you mount the link up from the other side? If you had links that pivot, assuming they didn't foul on anything, that would gain you considerable length.

I'm running their HD links front and rear. They're a good bit of gear.

Even the OP has stated that it is exhibiting both. I'm no suspension engineer, but you can see and hear that the car has corner entry and some mid corner understeer. And it seems like most of the oversteer is at corner exit. I think a more neutral setup will help alleviate both. But I agree with Neil, by making small changes, I think a lot could be gained. Such as some wheel alignment tweeks i.e. Some more positive caster up front or adjusting the ride height.

Works Bell Rapfix II

As above, not something you want to cheap out on. They're cheaper for a reason. Do it once do it right.

R32 GT-R front circuit link set. I only bought it for the upper links for my GTS-T. LCA's are on their way to $$slowmedown, if anyone wants the castor rods, let me know.

That's what I would be doing. And then, if it still has mid corner understeer, soften the front sway bar one notch.

You stated the tyre size, but size wheels are you running front and rear? If you're running narrower front wheels and tyres, try running the same front and rear. I think you'll find it makes the handling a lot more neutral. Also, a bit of toe out on the front will help with turn in and that corner entry understeer. Goodluck, and keep us posted.

@iruvyouskyrine http://www.industrysearch.com.au/Moisture-Contamination-Drum-Vent-Dryers/p/96242

If it's an ongoing problem, even with replacement rotors, pads etc. I would be checking things like wheel bearing runout with a dial indicator. And overhauling the calipers for piece of mind.

I'm also running Project Mu's HC+ pads with thier shims. They're whisper quiet.

Just re-read your post properly, if your keen on the lca's, let me know.

Hey, I'm about to buy a brand new left and right set of these and I only want the upper arm link for my GTS-T, would you be keen on buying the LCA and castor rods from me?

What track work specifically? S compound tyres? Sway bar thickness etc? Give us a better idea on the car setup and its intended use, we'll be able to help you more.

That post qualifying interview

If anything, it will be more accurate.

OP, I have a complete GTS-T brake setup if you need. Calipers, rotors, lines etc.