White GTS-T

Pics please.

I have 9.5+12 all round on a GTS-T, does that count for anything?

Wheels are TE37SL's.

It seems that way because the symptoms change with engine conditions. i.e. engine temperature and manifold vacuum. e.g. You lift your foot off the throttle to take a corner, this increases manifold vacuum, which results in more raw fuel into the manifold and as you go to take off again, nothing happens, or it stalls. The car runs okay when you first start it up cold in the morning, but gets progressively worse the more you drive it. If you flog it then it seems to 'clear up'. But go to start it again after it's been hot and there's still pressure in the rail and it runs like a dog again. After sitting idling at the lights, you go to take off and it wont rev. etc.

Either that, or the vacuum signal hose to the map sensor has blown off or has split, due to a backfire. I'd wage money, that it was either of these.

I bet your fuel pressure regulator has a hole in the diaphragm and is sucking in extra fuel under vacuum. Remove the vacuum line from the reg as the car is running and I bet you fuel pours out. As a mechanic, I've seen this several times on Falcons and the symptoms are exactly as you describe. Also, I've seen gas systems that keep the fuel pump running, even when switched to run on LPG, (they just cut the signal to the injectors) so the rail would still be pressurised and the hole in the fuel reg diaphragm would still be sucking in more fuel.

Fair enough. I haven't worked on a GT-R, but being a mechanic, I have worked on countless 4WD's and they were all setup this way. I stand corrected.

Pouring oil through the shifter will only fill the gearbox. There is a seperate drain and fill plug on the transfer case to change the transfer case oil. You will have do get under the car to do this and have some method of pumping the oil in to the transfer case.

Hey man, nice result. How's the 20 respond to the 10cm rear? Do you have a graph with a boost curve you can post up?

http://justjap.com/index.php/earls-braided-line-turbo-kit-r32-skyline-rb20-r32rb20kit.html

The longer arm is the drivers.

The plug going in to the ignitor module, plugs in to the twin spark harness, which plugs in to twin spark unit and then back in to the ignitor.

Did you get the vehicle specific harness with it? If so, It's a plug and play install.

*Double post*

Let us know if it fixes the missfire.

It's just an extra earth to ensure that the coilpack loom has a good ground. Anywhere that has a nice and clean earth will suffice.

I don't mean to be rude, but do you really need a translation? It is just a a relay to overcome any voltage drop that maybe present in the standard wiring. Power going in via a fusible link (red), earth (black), signal wire in (red), signal wire out (blue) .It even shows you the exact signal wire to cut and how to wire it in. Again, I'm only trying to help, but if this is over your head I'd suggest taking the car to an auto electrician.

The MAP sensor would be for the optional boost control kit, which I'm assuming yours has. Do you have a hand controller, and can you measure/adjust boost on it? If so, that's why.

Thanks Danial, Tim, you are right, it could have been worse. Because the Ikeya Formula control arms are so strong, they transferred all the force in to the engine subframe and k-frame, elongating the mounting holes for the pick-up points and bending it out of shape. The arms actually look okay, but I'm yet to pull it all down. Plus I think the rad support is a bit out of shape.Only the lips of the rims we damaged, so they should be fixable with some work.

They don't. They are only used to run the RB20 Automatic transmission. In other words, if you car is manual, they won't be part of the loom, the pins will be blank and you won't have to worry about it. If your car is auto, then the computer won't cut ignition on the upshift and you'll quickly destroy your auto trans.

So at Matsuri, the car went from looking like this... ...to this... The new front end setup was just too stiff, consequently, the car had a lot of understeer. In hindsight, I should have tried to tune it out instead of driving around it. Combine this with copious amounts of rear grip, and running new tyres at low pressure, meant the car was very quick and on this one occasion the speed caught me off guard.

^^^Terry, would this be an exclusive R34 GT-R only photoshoot? ​