White GTS-T

When you pulled the spark plugs out to do the compression test, what did the plugs on cylinders one and three look like compared to rest? Did you put the same plugs back into the same cylinders after the compression test? Have you tried new spark plugs? You said you had power to the coils, use a LED test light to check to see if the computer is switching the earth at the coils. And/or use a noid light to check for injector pulse and report back your findings.

Were you monitoring turbo wheel speed at all? What engine were you running the ~36psi on?

More to the point, the alloy head starts to warp and distort under such clamping pressure.

Did you change the fuel filter at the same time @Die$eL? Because if you didn't, there's a fair chance that is your problem. The filter will be full off contamination, including brass from the failed pump.

I'm with GTSBoy on this one. 12W are tail/parker globes and 21W are for brake light globes. A stop/tail globe will have dual filament 12/21W filaments. Just be sure to double check that you're not putting single filament globes where double filament globes are supposed to go and vice versa.

Yeah, that's what I was trying to hint towards. If the OP is currently happy with his Nismo's, upgraded sway bars might be just the thing he is looking for. Put it this way, it is cheaper and easier to upgrade the sway bars first, than go all out with some new shocks.

Do you have standard sway bars? If you do, and you're currently happy with the Nismo's, upgrade the sway bars first before looking at different shocks. They'll make the car more planted, especially during spirited driving, and if you get adjustable ones, you can tune the cars handling characteristics. How's the rest of the steering/suspension set-up/condition? Tyres etc. Must be okay if it hooks up with high h/p?

That is a Gates belt, which is an aftermarket replacement for the original Subaru belt. Which means it has already been replaced. That belt is not very old. Depending on your cars build date, the timing belt intervals for Subaru's are 100,000-125,000km. They changed the interval from 100k to 125k around the 06/2006 mark, without changing any of the part numbers used. The ignition timing on a Subaru is fully electronic and is fixed in the computer. The ignition timing cannot be changed, so a timing light is unnecessary and besides, the belt has been changed, so rest assured. Hope that helps

Often times, with Japanese cars, they will share the obd fuse with something else. If you can't communicate with the scan tool at all, check to see if you have power at the obd port and check all fuses.

If the TX valve is faulty, you can tell by watching the gauges, the low side will draw into a (near) vacuum. So the clutch is definitely engaging on the compressor? And the gauges aren't moving at all? Are you sure the couplings on the charge ports are seated correctly and contacting the schrader valve? Is the discharge pipe getting warm at all? How did you charge the system? Did you evacuate/reclaim the system prior to recharging? Did you vacuum the system prior? How much gas did you put in? If you did everything correctly, and you're sure the gauges are working, and the clutch on the compressor is engaging, and the gauges aren't moving at all, then the compressor has failed internally.

I have/had one that was in perfect working order prior to removal. I only replaced it with a new item as I upgraded to Brembo's all round. I'll see if I can find it for you.

Sounds like your alternator is stuffed. The regulator in your alternator is overcharging >16v (dash lights getting brighter ) and undercharging <12V causing all your electronics to play up. By disconnecting the amp and the Hicas ecu, you're effectively lowering the load (electrical output) on the alternator. You probably blew a few fuses in the meantime. I'd be getting the battery tested and your wiring (to the amp) checked. The noise coming from the amp sounds like electrical inteference. It is stalling because the alternator can't keep up the voltage supply after you jump start it. You'll need a new alternator, or have an autoelec rebuild it. Best to fit a new battery while your at it. And check all your fuses and fusable links. Good luck.

@Chrisko33 Do you have fuel pressure?

Rag left in the inlet manifold choking cylinder #3 is my bet

@iruvyouskyrine

A minor, yet not insignificant update. I sold my early model hand controller for the Power FC and bought a new EL hand controller for next to no difference. It was nice to do something for the car. Hopefully this will be the impetus required to get the ball rolling again

I've been wanting to do a 6258 on a stock manifold for a responsive setup for a while now. Maybe I should just bite the bullet...

Geoff did say in the EFR thread, that they can weld a T3 fitting in house prior to ceramic coating and shipping if need be. That is on a T25 fitted 6258/6758. You'd have to purchace through FullRace though.

You're correct. Green is the oil feed and red is the oil return.

Am I missing something, why are they so cheap, left overs from WTAC?

I have a Midori Seibi Hicas lock kit to suit R32 if you're interested? I bought them brand new and they were only fitted for

PM sent

The 'white' car is still 'white'. It has been sitting idle for months now. The GT-R guards are still sitting on the front, but I underestimated how much they flare out around the side skirt mounting. There's no way you could run Type-M side skirts and have it look half decent. I have brand new (in box) GT-R Bee-R sideskirts for it, but they will be the same around the rear mounting. I think I'm going to have to go back to finding/running standard panels and just lip/roll the fark out of them.

If it's running Redline lightweight shockproof gear oil, which the colour would suggest, you might want to look at extending the gearbox breather hose as their 'new' formula, tends to foam up and travel up the breather.